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Developing old film (1967)
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Aug 16, 2020 14:46:38   #
aschweik Loc: NE Ohio
 
I have an Agfa Isoflash Rapid (1960's) that I'm testing to see if it works. I used Agfa Isopan ISS film (ASA200), expired in 1967. I'm developing myself so I'm wondering if I should change anything, or just develop as I normally do. I've never developed anything that old. (considering I was born in the 60's I guess that makes me old, too). Don't know if the camera even works (definitely not a quality camera!), but I'm not expecting great things from the film, it's all just for fun. Thanks for any developing advice you can give me!

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Aug 16, 2020 17:05:58   #
PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago
 
aschweik wrote:
I have an Agfa Isoflash Rapid (1960's) that I'm testing to see if it works. I used Agfa Isopan ISS film (ASA200), expired in 1967. I'm developing myself so I'm wondering if I should change anything, or just develop as I normally do. I've never developed anything that old. (considering I was born in the 60's I guess that makes me old, too). Don't know if the camera even works (definitely not a quality camera!), but I'm not expecting great things from the film, it's all just for fun. Thanks for any developing advice you can give me!
I have an Agfa Isoflash Rapid (1960's) that I'm te... (show quote)


I would add 20 increase in development time to compensate for film age.

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Aug 16, 2020 18:01:09   #
Steve DeMott Loc: St. Louis, Missouri (Oakville area)
 
aschweik wrote:
I have an Agfa Isoflash Rapid (1960's) that I'm testing to see if it works. I used Agfa Isopan ISS film (ASA200), expired in 1967. I'm developing myself so I'm wondering if I should change anything, or just develop as I normally do. I've never developed anything that old. (considering I was born in the 60's I guess that makes me old, too). Don't know if the camera even works (definitely not a quality camera!), but I'm not expecting great things from the film, it's all just for fun. Thanks for any developing advice you can give me!
I have an Agfa Isoflash Rapid (1960's) that I'm te... (show quote)


Here's an interesting post for that type of film & developing
https://www.flickr.com/groups/diybw/discuss/72157618256045837

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Aug 16, 2020 18:06:50   #
JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco
 
You could do a snip test on it - cut off a piece of the film maybe three frames or so and develop it. You might lose one frame, but you can see if the rest of the film needs more or less development.

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Aug 17, 2020 07:50:51   #
aschweik Loc: NE Ohio
 
PixelStan77 wrote:
I would add 20 increase in development time to compensate for film age.


Thanks! I was looking online and some people did recommend that and others said they developed normally. So I wanted opinions from people here. I think I will go with the increase in development time, as you suggest. Thanks!

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Aug 17, 2020 07:53:26   #
aschweik Loc: NE Ohio
 
Steve DeMott wrote:
Here's an interesting post for that type of film & developing
https://www.flickr.com/groups/diybw/discuss/72157618256045837


Interesting, thank you! I'm still fairly new to regular film developing so it's interesting to learn about old film. Thanks again for the link! Helpful!

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Aug 17, 2020 07:55:02   #
aschweik Loc: NE Ohio
 
JohnSwanda wrote:
You could do a snip test on it - cut off a piece of the film maybe three frames or so and develop it. You might lose one frame, but you can see if the rest of the film needs more or less development.


Good idea! I may just do that. Not even sure if the camera works right. It did advance the film as it was supposed to but beyond that, I have no idea. So if the film doesn't turn out, how do I know if it's the film or the camera?

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Aug 17, 2020 08:54:13   #
Laboiserie
 
PixelStan77 wrote:
I would add 20 increase in development time to compensate for film age.


"add 20 increase" What does that mean? What is an "increase"? What is being increased?

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Aug 17, 2020 08:54:54   #
drjuice
 
I'd go buy the least expensive BW film I could find, shoot a few random shots, then develop and print to see what happens. Same thing as when I'm buying a used camera.

drjuice

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Aug 17, 2020 09:07:36   #
User ID
 
PixelStan77 wrote:
I would add 20 increase in development time to compensate for film age.


That works. Also bracket the full range of weather symbols at midday on a sunny day. That will give you a wide bracket, all on the Plus side. If there are any other symbols, maybe such as a flash symbol, include that as well.

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Aug 17, 2020 09:09:27   #
JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco
 
Laboiserie wrote:
"add 20 increase" What does that mean? What is an "increase"? What is being increased?


it's perfectly clear to me. Development time is increased, I'm sure 20 means by 20%.

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Aug 17, 2020 09:13:37   #
User ID
 
aschweik wrote:
Good idea! I may just do that. Not even sure if the camera works right. It did advance the film as it was supposed to but beyond that, I have no idea. So if the film doesn't turn out, how do I know if it's the film or the camera?


If results are not good, describe them here. There’s some film users on hand.

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Aug 17, 2020 09:45:40   #
MrPhotog
 
aschweik wrote:
. . . So if the film doesn't turn out, how do I know if it's the film or the camera?


Buy a fresh roll of film, shoot some pictures on it, and develop the film.

Even if you get pictures on the old film it doesn’t mean the camera hasn’t been damaged since it was last used.

You’ll probably get some images on the old film. As film ages it develops an increase in ‘fogging’, or base-line density, which makes the negatives look darker overall.

Kodak used to make a chemical that was a de-fogging agent. A small amount was added to the developer and the development time altered a bit. It was hard to find when I got some in the early 1970’s. I tried it and couldn’t see that it helped. It was expensive and probably not worth searching for today.

Slight overdeveloping will increase the contrast—which is probably going to help. 20% more is fine. A little more than that probably wouldn’t hurt, either.

That may make the negatives appear unusual, but try scanning them anyway. Electronic imaging and post processing in today’s software can pull surprisingly good results out of some awful looking negatives.

In the past, when I was in the darkroom daily: My fallback process with unusual films was to develop them for two minutes in total darkness in a tray of Dektol print developer. It was more active than my film developers and I finished faster. Plus, I always had a tray on the table in the darkroom, so it was convenient. It most certainly is not a fine-grain developer, but if there was an exposure on the film I could get an image.

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Aug 17, 2020 10:41:00   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
JohnSwanda wrote:
it's perfectly clear to me. Development time is increased, I'm sure 20 means by 20%.


I’m assuming 20% but that was not well said. One might assume 20 minutes.

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Aug 17, 2020 11:03:32   #
Blair Shaw Jr Loc: Dunnellon,Florida
 
aschweik wrote:
I have an Agfa Isoflash Rapid (1960's) that I'm testing to see if it works. I used Agfa Isopan ISS film (ASA200), expired in 1967. I'm developing myself so I'm wondering if I should change anything, or just develop as I normally do. I've never developed anything that old. (considering I was born in the 60's I guess that makes me old, too). Don't know if the camera even works (definitely not a quality camera!), but I'm not expecting great things from the film, it's all just for fun. Thanks for any developing advice you can give me!
I have an Agfa Isoflash Rapid (1960's) that I'm te... (show quote)


I would contact Agfa on line and ask them. I expect you will have to use different solution strengths and development times and possibly a replentisher of some sort if your chemicals are also ancient or expired.
Processing old film is always a treasure hunt with surprises and sometimes....disappointment.....good luck and let us know how you made-out. I am already excited for you.

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