boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

My main problem (aside from my lack of talent) is camera shake. My obsolete Canon 7d original, may just be just to heavy. I am considering a change to a lighter platform. Maybe a 90d or a mirrorless. My only only concern is will all my L glass work or do I need an adaptor. If so how well do gizmos work. Will I lose any thing by using them?? One more question I forgot to add. How well will the smaller mirrorless cameras work with my very large hands?

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

Before you start considering the what-ifs, I'd like to propose another thought. I, too, have shaky hands. And I tire easily. Because my favorite lens weighs a lot, I purchased a lighter-weight one and a lighter-weight camera. What I soon learned was that I was even shakier with lighter weight! Then I noticed when I fill my water bottle that I can't hold it steady until it's almost full. The weight itself is a steadying element. So my suggestion is to try the "hold it steady" exercise with your water bottle (or similar item) before you start going lighter.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Your original 7D is large and heavy, weighing in at 915 grams (32.3 oz / 2 pounds). The 90D is an immediate 25% reduction to 698 gm. Really, not much of a change, and if you keep the large and heavy L lenses, you'll struggle to feel any real difference after the initial 5 minutes.

The full-frame stripped down EOS RP moves you to 485gm / 17 oz. Your existing EF / EF-S lenses operate exactly the same via Canon's EF to RF Adapter, adding another 125.7 gm / 4.4 oz and some size to the package.

You might want to reconsider your entire approach. There are plenty of non L lenses in the Canon line-up, both EF and EF-S, that are everywhere as sharp as their more expensive, larger, and heavier (and more expensive) L brothers. This week Canon will announce both new mirrorless bodies and a selection of non L-brand RF lenses. The long awaited EOS R5 probably won't be very light weight, but will feature IBIS. A RF 'nifty fifty' is due soon. All the non L RF lenses are sharper on the mirrorless bodies than the corresponding EF versions of the L lenses, simply because the RF lenses are technically superior.

But, if you won't put down the kool-aid of a red ring as being both a must and superior, the change you've considered will always remain out of grasp. Another approach might have nothing to do with the camera / lens weight; and rather, a need for stability such as a tripod or monopod or always lenses / bodies with stabilization that is always engaged.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

Sounds about right to me. Or if you haven't been using a viewfinder before now, your face may provide the required stability.

Hip Coyote

With the exception of software (IBIS) Cameras are like firearms. Lighter ones are more difficult to hold steady...generally. Obviously a camera can get too big and cumbersome, but I think you get the idea. And like firearms, technique is paramount. First, make sure stance, grip and activation of the shutter press are smooth. Hold the camera properly with arms tucked into body...not outstretched. Breathing is important. To reduce shake, breath in, out, in, half out and press the shutter. Look at your stance...feet apart and well balanced.

Obviously, consider using tripod. If you are like me and dislike them, there are other means to steady your camera....such as using various bracing methods...against a tree, the crook of a branch, over a car, on a rock, etc. As in shooting a firearm, consider using a braced seated position where you use your knees as one or two points of contact with the ground. I use this often...works very effectively. I've shot photographs prone over rocks...dont usually lay down on the ground...too much effort and kills my back.

If all this does not work, then you may want to consider one of the many cameras that have great in body image stabilization (IBIS.) I am not sure if Canon is starting to include IBIS or continues to do stabilization in the lens.

Oly has a pro capture mode where the camera starts taking images a short time before you press the shutter...in a buffer. I suspect that more cameras will have this in the future. When using this and shooting multiple frames, it will give the photographer more images to consider.

Consider Topez Sharpen AI...it can fix some images that otherwise might be unsatisfactory.

Anyhoo, see if better technique might help.

boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

Bracing the camera helps. But I still have thw tremor in my left hand. I know setting up a tripod with a cable release will work, But it's to inconvenient in many situations. Maybe adjusting the dosages of my meds will help (yes Iwill consult my docs). So before I change gear I'll check that out. I have been using cameras for decades so I know all the"tricks". So for now calling my docs will be the first thing.--Thanks all for your suggestions, I appreciate the help (Ill take all help I can ger)

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

A quality tripod with quick release clamps and an L-plate on the body make using a tripod much more efficient. Of course, many (most?) situations make a tripod impractical. A cable release is important really just for slow (1 second+) speeds, again assuming the clamp / ball / gimbal will instantly lock the camera. My point is that when you see your tripod as part of your everyday equipment and you use it that way, the situations where you can't use a tripod become the 'hassle'.

Najataagihe

Try a camera stabilizer.

You can get one for less than the cost of a lens. ($90-$Ridiculous)

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

Or you can try Topaz Sharpen AI which has a stabilization mode which works quite well. It somehow manages to remove a certain amount of moderate shake and turn it into a sharp image.

lmTrying Loc: WV Northern Panhandle

In 2008 I bought a Canon XSi with an EF-S 18-55 and soon added an EF 70-300. Weight was good, but the photos were NOT tack sharp. Everyone said to invest in better glass, so did my research and bought what would fit an 80D, 90D, or RP, an EF 25-105L f4 IS II USM. Yes, definite improvement of the images. Yes, definitely heavier than the lenses I have.

Eleven months later Canon put the RP on sale with a free adapter. Very light body. So many advantages over the XSi. Attach the 24-105 to the adapter and to the RP, ahhh, things seem out of balance. The weight is definitely in the lens and the hand holding it. I am adjusting. The images produced are definitely approaching tack sharp. I like the all the things I see in the view finder and on the screen, and from all the positions I can place it. I also like the touch screen and how quickly I can change dang near everything.

So yes, your glass will fit an EOS R or RP with Canon's adapter. Don't know what a "gizmos" is. Yes, an RP is lighter. Others have attested to the weight of their rigs and the steadiness with age. If you desire lighter lenses move to RF or EF non-L, they will be smaller and lighter. So far everyone's responses have been very good and true.

Hope this helps and good luck.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Actually, a lighter camera may increase the camera movement over using a heavier camera.
Lots of folks in your position make the mistake of getting a lighter camera only to find out the camera now shakes more.
I would suggest getting a camera body that has IBIS (in body image stabilization) and combine that with a lens that has IS (image stabilization). I know Sony has this, not sure Canon does, but I am sure someone out there in UHH land knows if Canon does. That is my suggestion.

wireloose

Steadify could be an option for stability https://swifttools.pro/. Or a monopod- always used to use that for the grandkids sports, as it gave me stability on the long glass plus the camera was always up and ready. Ibis does help if that’s an option, a Sony a6500 is around $600 used and the Sigma mc-11 will adapt to your Canon glass

Lucian Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio

Try this, it may help you...

Get a piece of cord that is non stretch. Tie a loop for your foot and another loop that will fit around the lens right next to the body. Work out the length you need so that when you are ready to press the shutter, the cord/string is at the correct height/length, so that your camera is in the right place for your head and hands, that is, in a comfortable position.

Now, unlike a tripod, whereby you may want to press down slightly if it is a light one, to keep it steady, with this cord/string, you pull up and take up the tension and hold it firm as you press the shutter. This is an old method for keeping a camera more stable when you don't have or want to carry a tripod, yet still need to keep the camera as stable as possible, without having any solid object to lean it on. You can roll up the cord/string and keep it in your pocket ready for your next shot.

So to recap, loop it around your foot and around your lens next to the body, compose, be ready to shoot and pull up on the non stretch string/cord and then as you take up the tension, press the shutter.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

You would NOT need any sort of adapter with a 90D. Any lens that fits and works on your 7D will fit and work on the 90D.

You WOULD need an adapter to use any of your current lenses on ANY mirrorless camera, regardless of brand or format. Canon R-series full frame cameras would also make limited use of any crop-only lenses you might have (although, by definition the L-series you mention are full frame). Canon M-series APS-C format mirrorless cameras are particularly compact and light weight, might be uncomfortable if you have big hands (I recently got an M5 and find it very small compared to my Canon DSLRs). The M6 Mark II, which uses essentially the same sensor as the 90D, also does not have a built-in viewfinder. An accessory viewfinder is available, but when used it occupies the camera's hot shoe, so cannot be used at the same time as an accessory flash (which may or may not be a concern). And, to date there are limited native lenses for both the Canon R-series and M-series mirrorless. Canon has poured a lot of effort into and developed some superb lenses for the R-series... More will be announced tomorrow, bringing the total to about 15 RF-mount lenses. Some aren't, but many of the RF lenses are more expensive than their EF counterparts. The situation is even more limited with the smaller, APS-C format M-series cameras. Even after eight years, Canon has only developed eight EF-M lenses... most are zooms and all use STM focus drive (instead of faster USM). There also is relatively limited third party support for the M-series. Tamron makes one or two lenses for them. Sigma makes three. Compare this to the EF mount cameras, where Canon makes close to 90 lenses and when third party lenses are added there are well over 200 choices for a 7D or 90D user!

"Lighter" DOES NOT equate with "easier to hold steady". In fact, it often can be just the opposite. Part of the reason I add battery grips to all my DSLRs is the additional weight and mass (also for the vertical/portrait controls and the grip, as well as the extra battery power), which helps them balance better with some larger telephotos I use and actually helps make for steadier shots! Note that there are no battery grips for most Canon mirrorless cameras... Only the original EOS R offers that option, right now (strong rumors are that there will be a new grip available for the EOS R5 that Canon will be officially unveiling tomorrow morning.... there's some speculation that the grip will also be usable on the new EOS R6). The upcoming R5 is also said to have in-body image stabilization (IBIS). Maybe the R6 will too, though we have to wait and see. This is in addition to the in-lens Image Stabilization (IS) that many Canon lenses currently offer. We'll have to wait for real world reviews.... but an IS lens that gives 2, 3 or even 4 stops worth of assistance, combined with IBIS that gives 2, 3 or 4 stops too, should be pretty impressive! But, it will come with a price.

Do you use telephotos a lot? If so, switching to full frame might also be a bad idea. To have the same telephoto "reach" with full frame, that you currently enjoy with your crop sensor camera, you would need MUCH bigger, heavier, and far, far more expensive lenses!

Yes, I would recommend you consider the 90D... perhaps with a battery grip and 2nd battery added... that would be a solid upgrade from the original 7D, although any weight reduction will be relatively minimal. 7D body only weighs 860 grams. 90D body weighs 701 grams. That's a difference of less than 6 oz.

A newer camera that has less high ISO noise, allowing you to use higher ISOs and, in turn, faster shutter speeds, might help a lot. HOWEVER, it also should be noted that higher resolution also is more demanding of lens quality AND is more susceptible to camera shake blur. Back when Canon introduced your 18MP 7D they issued a white paper about how crowded image sensors required faster shutter speeds.... And it's only gotten worse as 20MP and 24MP APS-C cameras became the norm. The 90D (and M6 Mark II) ratchet things up even more, with the highest resolution anyone has produced, too date, on an APS-C image sensor.

Add to this, when the 50MP Canon 5DS and 5DS-R were introduced, Canon published a list of recommended lenses for use with those ultra high resolution cameras. They were concerned that users might find some less capable lenses' shortcomings become very apparent, due to the demands of the camera. In APS-C terms, the 20MP Canon 70D and 7D Mark II sensors are very similar to the density (and demands) of the 50MP full frame cameras. 24MP cameras that have become the norm are even more demanding of "good glass". The 90D steps it up further with it's 32.5MP. That same pixel size and density on full frame would make for an approx. 83MP camera, a 66% increase compared to the 5DS/5DS-R and more megapixels than anyone is currently fitting onto a 24x36mm full frame sensor.

So, be sure to keep your shutter speeds up and that you're using "good glass", especially if you upgrade to a 90D with almost double the resolution of your current camera!

Finally, I shot with a pair of original 7D for five years and took over 300,000 images with them (have now been using two 7DII for several years). Are you certain that "image softness" you are seeing is actually due to camera shake? I ask because the original 7D seemed to use an unusually strong anti-alias filter, primarily to counteract possible moiré. I noticed it immediately, coming from 15MP Canon 50D that I used earlier. With 7D images I had to do a lot more sharpening in post processing... nearly twice as much. The trend since then has to be toward weaker AA filters, eliminating them entirely from some cameras (probably using software to correct for any moiré that might occur). 7DII images require far less sharpening. I'm sure the same would be true of 90D. But, my point is, it might be possible to mistake image softness from a strong AA filter and think it's due to camera shake.

Also seriously think about using a tripod or at least a monopod. And, if you haven't already done so, you also should concentrate on lenses with IS. A newer version of an IS lens might offer somewhat better performance, too (you'll have to research your specific lenses and any upgrade options). Finally, you should make sure your hand holding technique is as good as it can be, to get as steady shot as possible. I think all these would be better solutions than "a lighter camera".

jno

Think about a shoulder mount. Look at www.bifbullseye.com for a really good one.