Cryppy Loc: Gouldsboro, ME

I have two D7200s, each at the ready with its own lens attached all the time. One of the cameras has two problems that I've been unable to solve:
(1) The ISO drifts high, sometimes as high as 5,000. It'll stay put for a while at the lower settings (e.g. 100 or 200, etc.) but eventually/unpredictably it drifts upward. It's ruined some images.
(2) The green LED battery light on the back of the camera comes on when it shouldn't, usually right in the middle of shooting a series of images. Sometimes, the light being on seems to be the cause of my shutter release not working (can't take a pic), but other times I'm able to shoot images while it's on. Trouble is it's unpredictable and I've missed some really good images because of it. I've read some blogs that suggest moving the on-off switch all the way over to the lightbulb position then snapping it back to the off position. That doesn't work for me. There are also suggestions for either re-formatting a card or replacing it with a new one - neither one has worked. Any suggestions?

sabfish

One, I would take the battery out and wait several minutes. I would start with a freshly charged, hopefully Nikon brand battery. Make sure the contacts for the battery in the camera are clean. A pencil eraser may help remove any corrosion. I would do a total reset of all settings. If the problem persists, I think it will need to be returned to Nikon.

Quixdraw Loc: x

Try the 2 button reset to original settings, check what the setting for shutter release and ISO are. Check the manual on the issues described. I wouldn't advise the old pencil eraser contact cleaning. It may need to go back to Nikon, but there are lots of things to try first. If you don't have the camera manual, there are free sources online. Good Luck! Have the D7200 and it performs brilliantly. I often use it instead of FX Nikons.

tcthome Loc: NJ

The light turns green after the in camera processing is done on Nikon cameras. You can't take a pic until this happens. When I shoot low light or night pics I have to wait for it to apply the long exposure noise reduction before another picture can be taken. You ight have some in camera processing going on(eg. sharpening etc.) ISO= check to see if yours is on auto iso. The first time I used it I was surprised at how high it went for the given light available. Good luck &, Happy Independence Day!

IDguy Loc: Idaho

Turn off auto iso.

The green light only causes green light. Whatever causes it to turn on might be related to your issue.

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

Or if you want to use auto ISO, you should be able to set an upper limit.

david vt Loc: Vermont

While I have a D7200, have not seen this issue. I can say mine can get quirky around Lower power issues. For me, that is shooting sports like XC in temps at 35, but all sorts of circumstances can cause power to drop quickly. Very frustrating to have an intermittent issue

As you have 2 of these, you are lucky that you can try some swaps from the “good” one to the “troublesome” one. I use that loosely as I would suggest only going in that direction so as not to bring the issues to the one that is not causing issues

I agree with all suggestions above, and would add the following, based on the assumption you have both set up with identical user settings

A) cards: Assume you have tried other cards Perhaps you have a SD card which is giving you issues in writing speed

B) battery. As suggested, full charge newer battery into the body. Not sure if you have grips on it, but would eliminate this as a variable if you do. Like the suggestion to clean contacts just in case

C) max iso. Are you using auto iso with max iso set? Is it blowing through this max iso? If so, then I think that points to a trip to repair if reset does not work

D) factory reset, but with a twist. Again, under the assumption both bodies are set the same way. A) save the user setups (1 and 2) onto a blank SD card from “good” camera. B) perform full reset on Mr Trouble and see if it seems OK. C) load the saved settings into this camera. Just thinking you may have tweaked a setting that is causing processing speed issues and this would clear it

After that, if still not working, than I agree with Nikon service, especially as you have a pair of them and likely want to keep same for ease of use interchangeability. If you do send it, note they will likely flash to latest software. Only mentioning as if both camera are at same rev now, you may want to update the “good” one as well to keep them in sync (after getting it back and making sure it works well)

Perhaps some of our greaT Nikon users here will have other suggestions.

Good luck Following to see how you make out. Please report back with progress and eventual solution

uhaas2009

I would check if the memory cards are still good. And format them in the camera in the menu.
Make sure the batteries are good, you can check it in the camera menu,too.
Maybe you set auto ISO....
Did you adjust some settings in the menu? I did and couldn’t get back to the original settings, I reset my camera.
Good luck

JRiepe Loc: Southern Illinois

I'm not aware of a green battery light but if you're shooting in continuous mode the green light will stay on until the images are processed and there is a limit to the number until the buffer is full. The increase in ISO sounds like it is set for auto ISO.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

Sounds like Auto ISO with no upper limit set. Nikons seem to get flaky when battery power drops below 20%, especially if shooting rapid fire or burst. Yes there may be processing and buffer filling happening too. I have experienced these type symptoms (you've described) when on Auto ISO with no upper limit, or low battery, and or heavy rapid shots with in camera processing. Menu settings solved some, and changing battery sooner when doing a heavy shooting episode.

Labtrainer

Since you have two cameras, on the working camera save the settings. This will put the camera settings on the SD card. Move the SD card to the “bad” camera and restore settings. Now both camera should behave the same. The only variables now are the battery and camera. If the problem still exists change batteries. Then if problems still exist you know it is the camera.

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

There's a lot of important stuff that you don't tell us here. With that in mind, I'll try to give you an answer that might help. I suspect that both symptoms are caused by a single problem. I suspect it to be deeply internal to your camera, but it is possible that it is not. Here is a little bit of context and a list of suggestions for things that you can check.

First...that green light is a very important indicator of your camera's operation. Think of it as a combination of the "Wait" screen (and others like it), the "spinning circle" and the little messages that you see in the lower right hand corner of your Windows screen...you know, like the one telling you that the driver is being installed for a device that you've plugged in for the first time. It can be triggered by an intermittent battery connection, a loose memory door, a bad connection with a battery grip, or (in a case that I experienced) by a properly installed third party grip.

Second...intermittent problems can be very difficult to diagnose, so if you are going to do it yourself, you are going to have to be patient. If you end up sending your camera to Nikon or other repair facility, you are going to have to be prepared to be patient with whoever is working on it. And if they aren't able to zero in on exacty what is causing the problem, they may have to include some repairs that may or may not be needed to insure that the problem doesn't return.

So I'd use this as a guide to my diagnosis if it were my camera. Check battery contacts. Check contacts in the battery compartment. Check the battery door. Check the memory door. If you have a grip, check contacts on the grip and camera. Make sure it is properly mounted to the camera. Try the camera for a while without it installed. Work the power switch and see if there seems to be anything "goofy" about it. Remember that it is not a power switch in the true sense of the word, but that it instructs the processor to power the camera up and down. Check the lens to make certain that it is completely and securely installed. (You might want to do this first.) There is a possibility that a problem inside the lens could be causing the problem, so try a different lens for a while. It could also be that the battery has an intermittent internal connection or is getting worn out, so try a different battery, preferably a Nikon one.

This is a lot, but it might help. Good luck.

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

"...Since you have two cameras, on the working camera save the settings. This will put the camera settings on the SD card. Move the SD card to the “bad” camera and restore settings. Now both camera should behave the same. The only variables now are the battery and camera. If the problem still exists change batteries. Then if problems still exist you know it is the camera..." Labtrainer Nikon Professional Services thanks you... finally an actual diagnostic that is optimized for viable results... you saved me from a post here... good show Labtrainer!

Funny how a recent post on another thread was asking "why would folks actually want to have two cameras of the very same make and model..." the poster obviously wasn't a commercial photographer.... enough said

Drbobcameraguy Loc: Eaton Ohio

If you have auto ISO on set the upper limit. Also the buffer fills very quickly on my D7200. When it's full I can't take another pic until it's done processing at least some of the pucs from the burst. Why I bought a d500. 😂 Don't ever use a pencil eraser because they leave tiny rubber particles that may cause future issues. Clean with isopropl alcohol and a lint free rag. Best of luck