picsman Loc: Scotland

Hello all,

What would you recommend to remotely trigger a Nikon D7100 from a D750? I am think of Pocket Wizards but what transmitter and receiver do I need?

Also what additional triggers are need to fire a strobe and speedlight from the D750 in a studio environment?

Hopefully the triggers would work in both environments separately.

PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago

Call Pocket Wizard.

Manufacturer in South Burlington, Vermont
Address: 21 Gregory Dr #150, South Burlington, VT 05403
Phone: (802) 658-0038

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Not sure what you are trying to do. Are you trying to use one camera to trigger the other?

I use Yongnuo triggers which have 16 channels and can control up to 4 groups separately. The RF 603 II is a transceiver which can connect to the shutter remote port for wireless triggering of the camera. You should be able to trigger your D750 camera on one channel, which in turn would trigger the flash/speedlights and the D7100 on another channel. I can't figure out a way to have the flash/speedlights work for both cameras in this arrangement, but if you provide more info about what you are trying to do I may be able to come up with something.

The nice thing about the Yongnuo triggers is that they cost only $32/pair. You'll need one as a wireless remote transmitter to trigger the D750, another on the remote shutter release port to actually take the picture, another as a transmitter for the hot shoe or PC port to wirelessly trigger the D7100, and another for the D7100 to receive the signal from the D750, another transmitter for the D7100 on the hot shoe or PC port to trigger the flash/strobes, and as many transceivers as you have flash/speedlight units. Looks like you'll need at least six or more (for additional lights). Your total investment could be under $100 or just over depending on how many lights you have.

I've been using the older RF 602 for years - they are pretty much bulletproof, simple devices that do one thing and do it well - receive a signal from a remote device and fire either a camera or a light.

If you need TTL control, they have those too, but they are more expensive.

CO

I can answer this part of your question because I have done it a few times in studio photo shoots. Get two Flex-TT5 (supports TTL) units, and a Plus III (trigger only), or Plus X (trigger only.) The Flex-TT5 transmits both the PocketWizard standard and the more complex PocketWizard controlTL signals simultaneously. I had PocketWizard Plus X and Plus III units connected to my studio strobes. I had my Nikon SB-700 speedlight mounted on the Flex-TT5. The Flex-TT5 triggers both the strobes and speedlight simultaneously.

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Drbobcameraguy Loc: Eaton Ohio

You can set the 7100 to command mode and it will trigger the flashes. When it shoots.

CO

I just wanted to add if you get a PocketWizard Flex-TT5 or Mini-TT1, you will want to download the PocketWizard Utility from their website. You connect the unit to your computer with the supplied USB cable and program it using the Utility on your computer. You'll notice that the Flex-TT5 has a switch for C1 and C2. Those are actually configurations, not channels. There are many channels that can be programmed to those two configurations.

picsman Loc: Scotland

You are right that in the first situation I want to use the D750 to trigger the D7100 at a sports event and no flash is involved.

In the second studio situation I want to trigger 3 strobes which have some internal wireless connection and a separate speedlight all on their own stands, so I need two receivers and 1 transmitter I think. Would definitely want iTTL.

picsman Loc: Scotland

Thank you, this is the answer for my studio shots.

picsman Loc: Scotland

This reply is directed to Gene51, sorry I missed the quote reply.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Only with line-of-sight - it's infrared. What I had suggested is based on radio triggers. The Yongnuo triggers have a 100m range when they are clear of obstructions - like from one end of a football field to the other. I've used them indoors over a 40 -50ft distance without misfire.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Your second situation -

If you want iTTL, then you'll need to use all triggers, strobes and speedlights that are iTTL compliant. You can use the excellent and widely-used Pocket Wizards as CO has suggested, or the less expensive Yongnuo YN-622N Receiver/Transmitter kit ($78) , and a pair of YN-622N receivers (you only really need one in your scenario, but at $39 it's not a bad idea to have a backup). The strobes will be triggered optically or with infrared, so you may only need one trigger and one controller, or just the camera in command mode.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1190877-REG/yongnuo_yn_622n_kit_yn_622n_i_ttl_wireless_transceiver.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjcfzBRCHARIsAO-1_Op9_-heku8NiiAn102OYnjwgHoRmiXkVJ5M6qgQXTXudgpaeuhFyfwaAtzKEALw_wcB

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1193861-REG/yongnuo_yn622n_ii_i_ttl_transceiver_yn622n_for.html?sts=pi&pim=Y

If you are in a studio setting, however, it is probably easier to put all the lights on manual and do it the old-fashioned way - a flash meter will be a great tool to help you set lighting ratios for all the lights.

picsman Loc: Scotland

Thank you Gene51 and CO both for sharing your knowledge.

CO

You can get strobes with built-in wireless capability. I use strobes that are set manually. I connect PocketWizard Plus III or Plus X units to the sync port of the strobe as shown in this photo. Attach the radio to the light stand.

Units with built-in TTL wireless triggering are available

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