dandev Loc: Enumclaw, WA

I am planning to enter photos in local (WA) state fairs - and the photos need to be "mounted on picture mat board no thicker than 1/8 inch. No foam core or gator board." I used to have my photos mounted by the places I got my photos printed, but now that I have my own printer, I have to do this myself.

I watched a number of videos - and seen both the "spray the photo with 3M 77" and using the self adhesive mat boards.

Any recommendation on where to buy mat boards for this purpose? Any recommendation on techniques? (Spray vs self adhesive.)

Thanks...

johnsnap1947 Loc: New Fairfield, CT

What paper type are your Pics on? Does your printer support Canvas? I use Krylon UV-resistant Clear spray. I tried spraying the backboard with photo adhesive but it just bubbled even though I rolled it.

dandev Loc: Enumclaw, WA

I'm using Canon Pro Luster paper. 13 x19 and 17 x 22. These aren't canvas prints.

Marg Loc: Canadian transplanted to NW Alabama

Our local fair office has mat boards for sale in the size they require for display and they suggest double sided mounting tape.

johnsnap1947 Loc: New Fairfield, CT

Try looking on Amazon.com or on Red River paper.com. You should find what you need there.

Manny Jay Loc: Colorado

Mat Boards at any art supply store. They come in a large size and you trim to size (with X[acto or
similar knife. Be very careful when you trim to size.) Store might have boards already cut to size.'

Spray adhesive for photos available at art store. (Spray the back of the photo, not the
backboard!) By the way, UV spray is for the face of the photo, not the back!

Mark the backboard where you want the photo to be. (Two marks at the top, one mark at the side.)
I usually spray the back of the photo on a newspaper, on the garage floor with a table nearby. Let the
adhesive dry for a bit, then attach to photo using the marks on the mat board. Prick a bubble with a
needle of pin and carefully squeeze the air out.
Voila!
Good luck!

Cherihorn Loc: Toledo

I am also preparing photos for a photo contest and losing my mind. I have self-adhesive mat board and the mat doesn't stick. So then I am double sided taping, and gluing. And still there are places it's not very stuck. I was thinking of asking you all the same question!

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I use archival linen tape, hinged two piece (window and backing) rag (archival) matboard.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

This may seem a bit out of the box but you might want to consider DRY MOUNTING. If you intend to do lots of mounting, going forward, you may be able to pick up a used 14x17 or 16x20 dry mounting press at a reasonable price. OR...you can, with a bit of ingenuity, improvisation, and practice, be able to dry mount with an ordinary household flat iron set at a lower heat. Dry mounting tissue is sandwiched between the print and the mounting board and heat are applied to the surface with a buffer sheet atop the print.

All of this may be worth the initial expense for the equipment and materials. Frankly, I HATE all those spray adhesives, pre-treated adhesive boards, glue, etc. They are messy, some are far from permanent and usually not even remotely archival. Dry mounting is extremely clean, permanent, and once you get the technique down pat- you can always expect consistent and repeatable results.

If you use a press, you can mount prints that are larger than the presse's platten, in sections. The tissue comes in standard sizes in sheets and rolls. I use the "Seal" products. I have had my Seal press and tacking iron for nearly 50 years.

You can dry mount on all kinds of matte boards, Foam-Cor, Masonite, Gator-Foam and more. You can mount photographs on conventional photographic papers, all kinds of paper commonly used in digital ink printing. posters, all kinds of printed matter, etc. Although there are "archival" quality tissues available, dry mounting is NOT considered pure archival methodology, nor is any kind of adhesive that can harm or devalue artworks.
In true archival picture framing, the artwork is hinged and suspended, with special spacers between archival mounting boards, and special conservatory glass.

For genera mounting, display, and print competition purposes, dry mounting is quite acceptable. I have dry-mounted prints that are 50 years old with no staining, peeling, discoloration, or deterioration issues.

Marg Loc: Canadian transplanted to NW Alabama

The fair that I mentioned recommended double sided tape for the average person. They did say that the preferred method was dry mount! FYI

bleirer

It sounds like a window is not permitted, if I'm reading the OP right.

cat30

In the old days we dry mounted photos using a new electric iron with a teflon heating surface at the lowest temperature that would bind the photo with mounting board

A.J.R. Loc: Devon, UK

In the past I have always dry mounted my photographs but recently, for an exhibition, very successfully, mounted 40 A4 prints with Double Sided Clear Film Adhesive, purchased via Amazon UK.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A2ML55A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wonder if something similar is available in your part of the world as it certainly worked well, and in my opinion far easier than spray mount.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

DO NOT USE SPRAY. Many things can happen that are not good. Use this instead.
https://www.amazon.com/Scrapbook-Permanent-Applicator-Acid-Free-Scrapbooking/dp/B07V38Z374/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Xfasten+double+sided+adhesive+roller+.3X360+inches&qid=1583233491&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyR0szTUozSUozU01BJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDc3OTExMlI4SldaWjdaMzJMViZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjk3OTExMU5RUk1MMU1KN0ZDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Tomfl101 Loc: Mount Airy, MD

What I’d like to know is why they care about what the print is mounted on? Gator board and foam core are MUCH better than 1/8 Matt board anyway. Matt board is flimsy and tends to bow in time. This seems like just another silly requirement contest organizers use that allow them to spend more time rejecting entries than for judging actual photographic merit.