jmiller59

I've had this lens for about a month. So far I am not impressed.- Here's some pics taken today and a coupe weeks ago. Pics a re unmodified out of the camera. Camera is Canon 7D mark 2. I would prefer to think I am doing something wrong. I used a heavy duty monopod. Shutter speed 1/400 up to 1/8000 (trying to keep it faster than 1/1000 if possible) @f11 - f13.

At 150mm, the lens is much sharper. Above 400mm everything is soft.

I think its too late to return the lens. Maybe Sigma can do something?

Thoughts and comments appreciated.
Jim

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Rusty Lens

I have the Tamron 150-600mm G2 and have suffered the same problems. Photos are not bad but soft across the whole range. Sent the lens in for repair. They found several problems & fixed. Better but still not really sharp on my Canon 7D MkII. I put the lens on my Canon 77D & guess what, photos are great. If you have another Canon camera or can borrow one, try it & see what happens. All of my other lens are fine on the 7D II, just this one doesn't seem to match up quite right but is fine on my other camera.

ShooterRod

First thing I notice is that there is very little depth of field in the first pic. That can't be f11-13.
I would have Sigma take a look for sure. Good Luck!

Grahame Loc: Fiji

The first thing to do is to set up your lens on a sturdy tripod, using aids such as remote release/timer/mirror up and take some test shots at a good target (with fine detail) at long FLs in non harsh lighting. Also using optimum settings, min ISO, one to two stops from wide open.

This will determine what your lens is doing or capable of rather than guesswork.

Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada

Jim: You have some great ideas already stated here. I wonder since every lens has a sweet spot, a sweet f stop. Or if the lens needs AF Fine Tuning? Just some thoughts.

Rusty Lens

To add to all of the above, if you are the original purchaser from an authorized dealer with a receipt the lens will still be under warranty. Be sure to turn the vibration control off at1/800 sec. or faster. You SHOULD be able to get a sharp image with a good monopod & fast shutter. Your first image looks to have movement blur either in the camera or the subject. Don't know your experience but there are several very good videos on youtube.com about shooting birds in flight & what camera settings to use. Use Grahame's suggestion to check for front focus or back focus. Sometimes the manufacturer just puts out a lemon. Feel free to call Sigma & talk to a service person.

jmiller59

EXINFO - the first pic was 1/400 f13 ISO 800. Second pic (same egret head under) 1/1250 f13 ISO 800. The flying sandhills was 1/640 f14 ISO 640. 1/400 may be a bit slow for 600mm.

I will try with IS off and see what that gets me.

Before buying this lens, my go-to telephoto lens is a Canon 70-200 2.8 L. I have been taking pictures for a very long time, but I am just starting to get interested in birding. A longer lens seems necessary. I was wondering if that L lens just spoiled me, but my wife's Canon EF-M 55-200 is much sharper than the Sigma.

The only other complaint on the Sigma is the autofocus is slow.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

They are soft. Starting with number 1, first, I would back off the f-stop and try something like f8 (you will see some diffraction at f13), a lower ISO if possible (800 is not unacceptable, but there will be less noise at a lower ISO) and a shutter speed of at least 1/1000 (1/400 is a bit slow at 600mm on a crop body).

Number two has an appropriate shutter speed, but still the small aperture and a higher than necessary ISO.

Number 3 has a more appropriate shutter speed (1/1250), but at f14, you’re certainly going to see some diffraction, so maybe f8 and an ISO of ~200. You might also check the sharpness and noise reduction settings on the body.

Although I can’t tell that the lens/body is front or back focusing, if it were mine, I would try calibrating the microfocus adjustment if you have a calibration system. Testing the lens on a tripod with a known target would eliminate some variables, and a tool like FoCal will not only adjust the AF for accurate focus, but also accurately measure the acuity which would help you determine whether you have a bad copy of the lens or there are exposure setting issues. If all else fails, you may need to send it in.

Just my initial thoughts...

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

The orginal Tamron G1 version also had issues with the 7DII, I sent the lens to Tamron and they tuned it while the Canon repair center tweaked the 7DII and put in two firmware upgrades. After that things were great.

You might check with Sigma and Canon if the combo you have has any known conflicts of a similar nature.

ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or

Watch those shutter speeds. with a full frame and my Sigma 150-600 C on my Sony camera I don't shoot any longer exposures than equal to the MM . so at 150mm I don't shoot any slower tha 1/150 sec but usually I over kill at 1/500 and that is with a nonmoving subject. You flying birds, and at 600mm I would shoot at no slower that 1/2000 sec. If you are using a crop sensor then you have to shoot even faster shutter speed. Second... you may need to use the Sigma USB Doc. to program your lens to your camera.

PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago

Jim, It is not you. It is the lens. I sold mine and got the Nikon 200-500. Great lens and sharp. A UHH just listed one at a great price.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Do a focus calibration and if you are using a protective filter, take it OFF. Use appropriate high shutter speeds when attempting to hand hold. 7DII is noted for having squirrelly AF !
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Wallen Loc: Middle Earth

What i understand is that those lens were meant for full frame cameras. Using them on crop sensors then viewing them or printing on same size as you would a full frame meant enlarging the image 2x. Further cropping would be similar to looking at 1/4-1/8 crop of a full frame photo. Hence, any flaws of the lens would be more visible.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

A 20MP crop body has the same number of pixels in the image as a 20MP full frame. The pixels are bigger on the FF, but that affects noise and DR, not the size of the recorded image in pixels.

Wallen Loc: Middle Earth

The crop factor means on an FF camera, you get to use all 20MP. In a DX body, it is 20MP but in reality it is falling on a space occupied by only 10MP of the full frame. If we crop that in half for composition, what remains may be only 10mp of the crop camera but that space will be only 5mp of the full frame.

Imagine taking picture in a full frame camera and then viewing that at anywhere from 4x to 8X zoom. Any flaw like soft focus, chromatic aberration etc. will be more visible. That is its equivalent when using a crop body.

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