Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

I had been wanting to have a way to carry LED lights on my cameras, in support of focus stacking in the home but also out in the field. So I built one, after having received plenty of advice from the folks over at photomacrography.net (discussion thread is here: https://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41003 ). I am not good at 'product shots', but I wanted to show this here anyway.

I can certainly provide a detailed list of parts and more pictures, if people want, as there are various lock nuts, epoxy glues, and some drilling and sculpting with Dremel tools that went into it. But the main components are a Neewer dual mount bracket with a cold shoe mount to the camera, some ½” Loc-Line tubing, SmallRig ballheads, and a pair of LED headlamps. These are powered by AAA batteries which are in small packs that are hanging off of the arms at the moment.

One little detail that I rather like is that the wiring between the lamps and batteries are run through the Loc-Line tubes. The Neweer bracket can be mounted in different ways to change the “reach” and angle of approach of the lights. The SmallRig ball heads at the ends of the arms do most of the swiveling, although the LED lights themselves can also swivel. The entire assembly came out to about $70, not counting the LED lights which I already had. So the cost was a bit more than I wanted. But I really enjoyed making it. Of course one should wonder how well it works!

The last picture is a quick indoor focus stack (12 pictures) from a tripod mount, illuminated with this light rig. The camera was a Canon 5dmiii, and the lens was the Canon 100mm f/2.8L. Focus bracketing was carried out by the Helicon Fb tube, and stacking was done in Zerene. The subject is a fossil tooth, about 1” long, from an Albertosaurus. This is a smaller relative of T. rex. Lighting was modified with a simple diffuser that I just quickly put on. I will fuss with diffusion later.
Speaking of fussing with things, all sorts of modifications come to mind. Brighter LED lights? How about getting long term battery power from one of those rechargeable power banks that charge cell phones? Like everyone, I have a drawer full of old USB cables that could be used for wiring to the USB plugs on one of those batteries. A challenge there would be to use compatible lights and batteries.

I am sure that this rig would support focus stacking in the field, including hand-held stacking from a braced position. I do that from time to time already.

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rwilson1942 Loc: Houston, TX

Well done Mark!
I'm a big fan of DIY photography equipment.
I got a 3D printer recently and am working on a new mounting system for my off camera strobe/diffuser system.

tinusbum Loc: east texas

$70 looks great! but you could have bought one from canon for around $500

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

Well, in truth you can get twin led lights and ring led lights for about the same, or considerably less. I am not a fan of ring lights, and the twin lights give me greater range at light angles. I really just wanted to have a go at it and have fun trying .

Blenheim Orange Loc: Michigan

Very good. Thanks for the background info.

Mike

EnglishBrenda Loc: Kent, England

The tooth looks good under that kit, well done for designing and putting it together, that is certainly clever.

newtoyou Loc: Eastport

I followed the other site in which you posted the evolution of this device.
I might add one thing that may help anyone interested in creating their own gear.
Acquire a drill, a #7 drill bit and a 1/4 inch drill bit and a 1/4-20 tap.
There are numerous LED lights available for a few dollars.
A question, are these flex arms easier to use than the ones I sent? Those were too hard to adjust when mounted on the camera. Then one broke, aluminum wire became brittle from bending. So I bought another set. Slow learner that I am.
I ended up using joints and ball and sockets in mine.
I am enclosing a picture of the LED lights I found for $10 each.
Five light levels, flash or continuous light, four AA batteries needed.
Triggers via the hot shoe or keep lit for your purpose.
A final word, closed cell polyethylene in many thicknesses is available free. I scotch tape the nessecery thickness over the light for diffusion of the light.
Maybe others will show their inventions.
Thanks for your posts, Mark. Always informative.
Bill

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Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

You have quite a collection there. The output of the led lights I chose had the greatest brightness than other models I looked at, and the color was what I wanted. I know about the ones you are showing, and they were a near 2nd choice.
The arms you sent me are 'up' for a different project. They are very stiff.
I have various drills, of course, and the Dremel set has also proven to be critical for precision cutting & routing. But the power of that little hand tool requires caution. The speed of the Dremel tool is controlled by a slider, and the top speed can easily bend the tool that is attached by centrifugal force! So when intending to turn it OFF one must be very conscious to slide the control toward OFF and not toward FASTER, as I discovered one alarming day.

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

Way to go Mark..! Necessity is the Mother of Invention and where there is a need, one will find a way. I prefer constant light myself for it allows me to see what the camera sees and with a mirrorless camera, that's quite golden.

Flash is great except with a DSLR the view is often too dark and I find that I miss a good exposure at times and then the subject, "has left the building" as the saying of Elvis goes.

BBurns Loc: South Bay, California

Mark, I looked at your link. I have had extensive experience with Bogen Magic Arms and their quality is what we expect from Bogen.
While not quite as flexible as what you show, they are rock solid once locked down.
However, they would be far too heavy for a hot shoe mount.
I would machine a plate that mounts to the bottom of the camera. You could use a QR clamp that matches what you use.

You might enjoy perusing the SmallRig site. I have a friend who is deep into video and he uses a lot of their stuff.
They have a lot of neat items that look very useful with a lot less weight than the Bogen/Manfrotto hardware.

Bob

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

Thank you. I certainly looked at a lot of the friction arms like the one made by Bogen. The expensive ones would work great but they would be expensive. Like I said on that other thread I would need two of them The cheaper knock-offs seemed less reliable for the investment, so I held off on those too. We will never know...
Once I bought a small sample of those Loc-line tubes, I knew I had the core of what I needed. They are light, with just the right amount of stiffness -- not too much, not too little. The rig I built turned out to be surprisingly versatile, although in truth I did not plan for it to be. I can change the bracket so the Loc-Line arms stick down, rather than up, and that changes the approach of the arms toward the subject. I can also easily mount the whole rig to the bottom of the camera if I wanted to for some reason.

There are whole other systems to peruse. If any one is curious, you can start exploring the various fittings that people use for underwater lighting. it is quite a rabbit-hole, so be sure you have time to 'become lost' in the possibilities. :)

BBurns Loc: South Bay, California

Boy is that the truth.
RRS & Kirk started all this over 20+ years ago. CNC machining and 3D printing have certainly changed the game. SmallRig is a newcomer.
I remember doing multiple TTL wired flash with yards of cable, on-shoe, off shoe & connector blocks, all mounted with Magic arms and super-clamps.
Now wireless flash makes all of that instantly obsolete. The advent of LED lighting/Flash is a game changer. Plus a massive drop in weight.
As you said, the rabbit hole is deep and endless. Then, you go under water, that's a whole other chapter.