sharper images
Sep 11, 2012 21:18:18 #
bellaj wrote:
Dback- is that a feature of Aperture? I have iPhoto and Adobe Elements10
Yes it is
Sep 12, 2012 07:50:43 #
bellaj wrote:
thank you everyone, that was alot of advice and i couldn't wait to try it out. my new tripod and remote should arrive tomorrow, but i got some better pictures over the past couple of days (only in my opinion) and I owe it all to you all!
I'm attaching a hawk i got this afternoon, i can zoom in on him and it's still not bad for being handheld. i think...
I'm attaching a hawk i got this afternoon, i can zoom in on him and it's still not bad for being handheld. i think...
Much better focus and a great shot too!
Sep 13, 2012 07:22:53 #
bellaj wrote:
I would like some advice on what i'm doing wrong. I've read some of the other folks who are having similar problems.
i'm putting one of the red dots on the bird when focusing. I've tried manual, auto, "A" and scene. with and without tripods. without fail i cannot get any of the birds i am photographing clear when using my larger lens.
i am using a Nikon d5100, with a DX 55-300mm lens.
Help?
i'm putting one of the red dots on the bird when focusing. I've tried manual, auto, "A" and scene. with and without tripods. without fail i cannot get any of the birds i am photographing clear when using my larger lens.
i am using a Nikon d5100, with a DX 55-300mm lens.
Help?
Firstly I think it's very hard to hand hold a 300mm lens and not get camers shake. But then I'm 71 and have a bad breathing problem so you and others may not have my problem, I think by downloading your snap your problem is camera shake or subject movement. I have been told that the "rule" for using a zoom lens is that you shutter speed should be the recipricol of your focal length multiplied by your sensor crop factor AS A MINIMUM. So with a 300mm lens and a crop factor of 1.6 you have a minimum shutter speed of 330 x 1.5 = 450th sec. as a minimum and that for a subject that isn't moving. so I would increase you ISO and use the fastes shutter speed you can. I would like other Hogs opinion of the advice I have given if you disagree so we can all learn together.
Sep 13, 2012 07:27:16 #
bellaj wrote:
I would like some advice on what i'm doing wrong. I've read some of the other folks who are having similar problems.
i'm putting one of the red dots on the bird when focusing. I've tried manual, auto, "A" and scene. with and without tripods. without fail i cannot get any of the birds i am photographing clear when using my larger lens.
i am using a Nikon d5100, with a DX 55-300mm lens.
Help?
i'm putting one of the red dots on the bird when focusing. I've tried manual, auto, "A" and scene. with and without tripods. without fail i cannot get any of the birds i am photographing clear when using my larger lens.
i am using a Nikon d5100, with a DX 55-300mm lens.
Help?
Firstly I think it's very hard to hand hold a 300mm lens and not get camers shake. But then I'm 71 and have a bad breathing problem so you and others may not have my problem, I think by downloading your snap your problem is camera shake or subject movement. I have been told that the "rule" for using a zoom lens is that you shutter speed should be the recipricol of your focal length multiplied by your sensor crop factor AS A MINIMUM. So with a 300mm lens and a crop factor of 1.6 you have a minimum shutter speed of 330 x 1.5 = 450th sec. as a minimum and that for a subject that isn't moving. so I would increase you ISO and use the fastes shutter speed you can. also use a tri pod if at all possible. I would like other Hogs opinion of the advice I have given if you disagree so we can all learn together.
Sep 13, 2012 14:11:00 #
I agree with infocus but the "rule" is a bit subjective in that sensor size and VR makes if different for different cameras. Bottom line is: experiment and find what shutter speed you need to get a sharp image hand holding at different focal lengths. If a scene won't let you take a shot with that high a shutter speed than use a camera support. For hiking around taking opportunistic shots a monopod is handy. You might consider one that is made to double as a walking stick.
Sep 21, 2012 15:29:10 #
trouble with birds is they wont stop breathing for you when you take there pic always moving a nightmare keep at it its worth it , jimmy
Sep 22, 2012 01:45:40 #
They have nailed your problem, Camera shake, You need to try mirror lock up on a tripod with.
Sep 26, 2012 15:06:00 #
a weighted and sheltered tripod, in some circumstances, is not a guarantee (like on my holidays with 60 mph squalls of hail)
the old rule of shutter speed reciprocal equal to focal length is only roughly ok , a few extra stops doesn't hurt (so, at 400mm focal length, reach immediately for 1/1000 shutter at least, even on tripod and especially if balanced on a bean bag).
Movement is our number one enemy. Next is the quality of the kit; a kit lens zoom, even corrected by the camera software as some now do, is no match whatever for a prime non zoom professional lens.
Consider what you are asking for; an 18 to 105mm zoom kit lens for a $100, versus a cinema camera lens costing $100000+.
One of them has highly specialised glass, coatings, construction accuracy, testing etc etc than your mass produced kit lens.
And don't forget that not all cameras are tested in factory for the lens to sensor/film register accuracy; with sensors having a zero acceptance tolerance, that matters even more than film (of a certain if minute thickness)
the old rule of shutter speed reciprocal equal to focal length is only roughly ok , a few extra stops doesn't hurt (so, at 400mm focal length, reach immediately for 1/1000 shutter at least, even on tripod and especially if balanced on a bean bag).
Movement is our number one enemy. Next is the quality of the kit; a kit lens zoom, even corrected by the camera software as some now do, is no match whatever for a prime non zoom professional lens.
Consider what you are asking for; an 18 to 105mm zoom kit lens for a $100, versus a cinema camera lens costing $100000+.
One of them has highly specialised glass, coatings, construction accuracy, testing etc etc than your mass produced kit lens.
And don't forget that not all cameras are tested in factory for the lens to sensor/film register accuracy; with sensors having a zero acceptance tolerance, that matters even more than film (of a certain if minute thickness)
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