A 4.5 - 5.6 Aperture ISO settings (Page 3): I'm sure the other posters know, but they were addressing the questions. I might be wrong, but it seemed that the OP would not have...

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Pablo8 wrote:

It took ten replies before Linda really explained what the f/4.5-f/5.6 indicated. (The maximum aperture possible). Seems like other posters thought, like the OP, that they were the ONLY apertures one could use...ie...NO facility to stop-down to f/8..f/11..f/16 etc. Well done Linda.

I'm sure the other posters know, but they were addressing the questions. I might be wrong, but it seemed that the OP would not have "bothered" to mention the f/4-f/5.6 if he understood that it was irrelevant to his questions.

Communication among a wide variety of experience and personalities is difficult, especially when there are multiple issues in an opening post

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

dennis2146 wrote:

I am wondering what exposure used has to do with the size of the print. Won't any print be the same from 4X3 to 16X20? I doubt anything at all. Perhaps you weren't thinking about exposure but only the print size when you commented.

Dennis

Just that ISO won’t make much difference at 5x7. As you print larger, noise becomes a bigger issue.

scubadoc Loc: Sarasota, FL

boberic wrote:

A tripod is a must, as well as a cable release. Use aperture priority, at iso 100 or200 and let the camera set the speed. End of problem

Set a 2 second delay on shutter trip, and you won’t need a cable release. Mirror lockup, or live view will give you extremely sharp images assuming you are using a tripod.

photoman43

That lens ought to produce very sharp images if it’s aperture is set to its sweet spot or aperture that is the sharpest. That can be f 8 or f11. Test this out when you get it.

Google sunny 16 rule. In daylight, the correct daylight exposure is f 16 at 1/100 if iso is set to 100. At iso 100, f 8 at 1/500 gives you the same exposure. Use of a tripod usually helps any image look better.

ecurb Loc: Metro Chicago Area

Silverrails wrote:

Just curious, I bought a Nikon Lens with a 4.5 - 5.6 Aperture range. ( not received yet.)
With Landscape Photography, in average to Good Daylight, how High or Low might I be required to set my ISO to capture a acceptable & decent Photo that I could make 5x7 Prints??
Would this just be Trial & Error continued Effort?

5x7 inch or 5x7 feet?
What camera body?

jcboy3

Silverrails wrote:

Just curious, I bought a Nikon Lens with a 4.5 - 5.6 Aperture range. ( not received yet.)
With Landscape Photography, in average to Good Daylight, how High or Low might I be required to set my ISO to capture a acceptable & decent Photo that I could make 5x7 Prints??
Would this just be Trial & Error continued Effort?

In order to take pictures, you need to buy a camera to go with that lens.

BlueMorel Loc: Southwest Michigan

Silverrails wrote:

My intention is to Use my personalized 5x7 Prints in pre-designed "Greeting Cards" frames, hopefully to supplement my Retirement. I am not confident that a Smartphone Camera can produce a Quality 5x7 Print,...Am I wrong?

I have a Samsung Galaxy 6 smartphone, abt 6 years old. It shoots abt a 12mp photo, plenty big enough for 5x7" prints. The newer smartphones are better, of course. But if you're happy with your photos now, it doesn't really matter. What matters are the usual elements of composition, light, focus, subject, etc.

elee950021 Loc: New York, NY

Silverrails wrote:

Just curious, I bought a Nikon Lens with a 4.5 - 5.6 Aperture range. ( not received yet.)
With Landscape Photography, in average to Good Daylight, how High or Low might I be required to set my ISO to capture a acceptable & decent Photo that I could make 5x7 Prints??
Would this just be Trial & Error continued Effort?

Silverrails! There's always the "Sunny 16" rule from "back in the day" film cameras and printed on the instruction sheets or boxes of film. Basically, for a sunny light situation with distinct shadows, use a shutter speed of 1 over the reciprocal of the ISO speed and an aperture of F/16, which is 1/100 @ F16 for ISO 100 or 1/400 for ISO 400. Use F/11 for cloudy/bright, F/8 for cloudy, F5.6 for overcast, etc. As lighting situations get less bright, the lens' aperture is opened up to compensate for them. Of course, if you are using a telephoto, you would definitely try to use a "sunny 16" equivalent exposure with the fastest possible shutter speed with the "sweet spot" aperture of the lens. Use a tripod for slower shutter speeds under 1/60. As for ISO, a base of 100 is a good starting point. Auto ISO is a good technique to use as well as set the upper ISO limit. For 5x7" prints, you could use as high an ISO of 1600 or 3200. Noise would mostly be in the shadows and darker tones.

See: < http://www.guidetofilmphotography.com/sunny-16-exposure.html > for a complete explanation and a chart.

All the best! Cheers. Ed

cahale Loc: San Angelo, TX

80. And 5X7 landscapes? I think those are called miniatures.

w00dy4012 Loc: Thalia, East Virginia

A.J.R. wrote:

Sorry Silverrails to change the subject somewhat but I was interested in where it was. Thought probably somewhere in the UK?

Dublin, Ireland.

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

SuperflyTNT wrote:

Just that ISO won’t make much difference at 5x7. As you print larger, noise becomes a bigger issue.

Yes I know but thanks for pointing it out. I think we are having two conversations but not a problem.

Dennis

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

ecurb wrote:

5x7 inch or 5x7 feet?
What camera body?

With respect, are you being serious? What do you think the obvious answer would generally speaking be? I am guessing 5X7 INCHES.

Dennis

User ID

billnikon wrote:

I get wonderful detail on 20X30 prints at ISO 1600
with my Nikon D5. I believe you are going to be fine
(depending on the camera) up to ISO 1000 and you
will be able to get great 5X7 images.

Bill is NOT exaggerating. Any thread about
assuring sufficient image quality for making
5x7 prints is a tempest in a teacup.