lpeck wrote:
I am real ugly new to photography and have a couple questions
What kind of a flash would you recommend? I’ve been reading about the 470EX AL and it sounds good but not sure if this would be the correct purchase?
I am also going on an 11 day river cruise on the Danube in a few months and am looking for recommendations on lens selections.
Thank you very much
Larry
Flashes:While I agree with Chg_Canon that the 580EX/EX II flashes are quite good, they also are rather large and might not be what you want for travel.
In my opinion, you're right to consider an accessory flash. The 80D has a built-in flash. But like all built-in flashes it's wimpy, slow to recycle, located in the worst possible place for issues with redeye and ugly shadows, plus it's a serious drain on the camera's battery. An accessory flash can solve all these problems. Even the smallest ones are more powerful than a built-in, as well as faster cycling and powered by their own, separate set of batteries. They also can be positioned more favorably to reduce redeye and make for nicer shadow effects.
The 500EX-series and 600EX series are Canon's largest and most powerful flashes (personally I have three 550EX and three 580EX II). They can act as both master and slave flashes in multi-flash setups, and have a socket to attach an external power source (such as a Canon CP-E2/E3/E4 Compact Battery Pack which adds eight more batteries to the four already contained in the flash). The additional battery power allows the flash both to recycle faster and to provide many more flashes.
The 400EX-series flashes are a bit smaller and lighter, as well as a little less powerful. They also cannot serve as a master... can only act as slaves in a multi-flash setup. And they don't have built-in means of using external power sources (there are third party power supplies, but they require some slight modification to the flash).
The 300EX-series and 200EX-series flashes are the next steps down in size and power. At least one of the 300EX models also has a continuous LED for video work. The earlier 200EX models are among the most compact (I think all 200EX series are powered by two AA batteries, versus the four used in the larger models). These models also can only serve as slave units and are not designed to accommodate an external power source. Some of the 300EX and many of the earlier 200EX-series flash do not have a tilting head. Some of the 300EX series and one or two of the latest 270EX models have this feature, though. I don't think any 300EX-series are currently in production, but they can be found used.
The Canon 90EX is the smallest of all. Very simple, highly automatic... It's also the only model other than the 500/600EX-series that can be used as a master, to control other flashes in a multi-flash setup. (This allows use of a very small, light weight flash on-camera, controlling bigger flashes located off-camera.)
Speaking of off-camera flash control... there are two methods: Optical and radio. There are 600-series and 400-series flash with "RT" designation that communicate with each other using radio, which is not limited to line of sight and has good reliability over an extended range. Optical control uses strobing lights from the master (near-IR, so largely invisible) OR strobing from many of the cameras' built-in flashes (white light and rather obnoxious). Optical communication requires line-of-sight that restricts off-camera flash placement, while also limiting range (which varies depending upon ambient light conditions).
The Canon flash designations give you a clue to their power. They are actually derived from the flash's approximate guide number, in meters. For example, a 600EX has a 60 meter guide number, a 580EX has a 58 meter GN and a 420EX a 42 meter GN. Keep in mind that there are 39" in a meter, so in feet a 270EX's GN would be about 88'.
Some of the flash have automatic "zooming" heads. This adjusts the flash's angle of coverage to match the lens from moderate wide to short telephoto. When used in auto mode and not tilted up, down or sideways, 600/500/400EX-series respond to the lens focal length and adjust automatically from approx. 24mm to 105mm on full frame (...or approx. 15mm to 66mm on APS-C cameras like the 80D). Further, some models have a wide angle diffusion panel that can be manually slid in place to cover as wide as 16mm focal length (10mm on APS-C/80D).
Canon's "ETTL" flash is highly automated and easy to use. newer flashes' "ETTL II", which I think the 80D supports, is slightly more sophisticated (in addition to the ETTL metering method, ETTL II can take into consideration the focus distance of the lens when it's determining the power of flash to use).
The flashes also can be used manually, if preferred. The more advanced models also allow you to dial exposure up or down with "FEC".... "flash exposure compensation" (does the same thing for auto flash exposure that Exposure Compensation does when using any of the camera's auto exposure modes without flash".
An important thing to know is that when Canon ETTL flash is used with the camera set to any of the auto exposure modes (Av, Tv, P... maybe M with Auto ISO too)... the flash will automatically act as "FILL", rather than "FULL" flash. Fill flash is typically 1.66 stops reduced. To use full flash with ETTL auto exposure, simply switch the
camera to M exposure mode (
without Auto ISO... you can manually adjust the camera settings to use more or less ambient light in combination with the flash... the flash's output will still be an auto exposure, controlled by ETTL). In both cases, flash output can be tweaked using FEC.
Many of the flashes (at least 600/500/400-series) are able to do "Rear Curtain Sync", which is normally used with slow shutter speeds. They also are able to do "High Speed Sync", which allows the flash to be used with fast shutter speeds above the camera's maximum flash sync speed (1/250 on 80D). HSS can be used all the way up to 1/8000 shutter speed, but it shortens the duration of the flash and significantly reduces the distance the flash can reach (i.e., "reduces" it's Guide Number). Many of the more advanced flashes have an LCD screen that, among other things, graphically displays the distance range of the flash based upon current flash and camera settings (can be set to display either meters or feet).
Any of the 400EX-series flashes would be a bit smaller than the 600/500EX-series, a little more travel friendly. If size and weight are a serious concern, and considering the 80D's usable high ISOs that may make flash less necessary, one of the 300/200EX-series may be preferred for travel.
Whatever flash you choose, I'd recommend a simple off-camera rig with a flash bracket. This moves the flash off to the side and higher up, which makes for less redeye and better shadow effects from direct flash. A moderate size, light weight bracket that folds or disassembles for travel would be ideal. To use this will require an "off-camera shoe cord", which attaches to the hotshoe. Canon offers those, but there are also third party at lower cost. Canon doesn't offer flash brackets, but they are available at a wide range of prices. Simple ones can cost as little as $20 or $25. Fancier ones can cost over $100.
A flash bracket allows you to use direct flash without much concern. This is preferable to "bouncing" a flash, which forces the flash to fire more fully, wastes an awful lot of the flash's output, slows flash recycling, drains batteries faster and can all-too-easily lead to color tints and other image problems. Direct flash is much more efficient and controllable. If you find it a bit too harsh, there are small diffusers that can tone down the lighting. (I often just use one or more layers of white gauze bandage over the flash head, held in place by a rubber band! Sort of MacGuyverish... But, hey, it works!)
Because I am not a fan of bouncing flash, I would probably not be all that interested in the Canon 470EX AI.... Because it's main added feature is some sort of automated bounce!
To me, the Canon 430EX-RT III (with radio triggering capabilities) would be more useful. It even costs a little less.
If not interested in multi-flash setups, an even smaller, lighter 270EX II might be a good choice for travel.
Lenses: Did your 80D come with the EF-S 18-135mm IS USM? That's a good general purpose "walk around" lens.
For scenic shots and architectural interiors, you might want a wider lens such as the compact, lightweight, inexpensive Canon EF-S 10-18mm IS STM.
If you plan to do some portraiture, you may want a "faster" short telephoto lens such as the compact, lightweight, very affordable EF 50mm f/1.8 STM.
Unless you anticipate some wildlife photos or attending some sporting events, you may not need a longer lens such as the Canon EF-S 55-250mm IS STM or EF 70-300mm IS USM "II" (
Avoid the inexpensive Canon EF
75-300mm "III". It's nowhere near as good lens... falls short both in performance and image quality.)
If you are planning to do a lot of wildlife photography, you might consider a more powerful telephoto such as Canon's very good EF 300mm f/4L IS USM or excellent but pricier, larger, heavier EF 100-400L IS USM "II" (both lenses with or without 1.4X teleconverter)... Or Tamron's slightly more compact 100-400mm (with it's separately sold tripod mounting ring).
Rather than taking a dedicated macro lens, if you anticipate wanting some close-up photos... closer than you can accomplish natively with your lenses... get and take a set of Kenko Macro Extension Tubes. Those can be used to make any lens closer focusing. They're affordable, well made, compact and light weight, and can make any lens you have in your camera bag able to focus closer.
Other stuff:Many Canon lenses don't include the lens hood. I always get and use the matched hood, if not provided with the lens.
For scenic shots and possibly some other things, I'd want a Circular Polarizing filter (or filters... if needed). I would also probably take "protection" filters, just in case they're needed (I don't leave them on my lenses all the time). Get good quality, multi-coated (B+W XS-Pro and F-Pro C-Pols are a really good value... their other types of filters are good, but not as favorably priced.)
Whatever you get... flashes, lenses and accessories.... do so as soon as possible so you can practice a bit with them and be comfortable using them before going on your trip.
You'll also want to arrange some method of carrying them. Personally I use LowePro backpacks... A pack is healthier than a shoulder bag (but you and/or travel companions have to "watch your back"). One I use fits in an airplane overhead bin.
I'd NEVER put most of my camera gear in checked baggage. I have gotten by sending a tripod in a checked bag. But other gear I've been forced to put in checked bags has gotten destroyed.
If needed, I'll ship things ahead in advance, to meet me at my destination.... rather than check them in baggage.
Often when I travel I wear a photo vest (actually a fishing vest... same thing, half the price!) to carry small items.
Spare batteries? Chargers that will work at your destination?
Got plenty of memory cards, means of downloading them and archive your images for safe keeping?
Have a great trip!