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Banding across some photographs.
Sep 28, 2019 01:40:21   #
Camera buyer Loc: Las Vegas
 
I shoot in many venues, but in one particular location, shooting with either my Canon 5DMK IV or my Canon 6D MKII, using my Tamron-70-200mm f2.8. I'm using an ISO of 6400 and shooting at 1/160th. I believe the light is tungsten. I get "banding" in many shots, and little or none in some. Any ideas?
camerabuyer









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Sep 28, 2019 06:29:38   #
jcboy3
 
Camera buyer wrote:
I shoot in many venues, but in one particular location, shooting with either my Canon 5DMK IV or my Canon 6D MKII, using my Tamron-70-200mm f2.8. I'm using an ISO of 6400 and shooting at 1/160th. I believe the light is tungsten. I get "banding" in many shots, and little or none in some. Any ideas?
camerabuyer


Banding is due to the flicker of flouresent or LED lighting, which will usually be at 50Hz (Europe) or 60Hz (USA), depending on your area. Your shutter speed must be set to a multiple of 1/50 or 1/60 to smooth out the flickering. And I wouldn't shoot at shutter speeds faster than your flash sync or rolling shutter could also produce flickering.

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Sep 28, 2019 07:51:02   #
bleirer
 
I'm betting you have an antiflicker setting in your camera menu, which will detect flicker and wait to take the shot when it is bright. Saw this on the web for the 5d, https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART166307&cat=CAMERAS&actp=LIST

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Check out The Dynamics of Photographic Lighting section of our forum.
Sep 28, 2019 08:28:11   #
LFingar Loc: Claverack, NY
 
Both of your cameras have an anti-flicker option in the menus. It should always be used when shooting under artificial light without flash.

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Sep 29, 2019 08:03:52   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
LFingar wrote:
Both of your cameras have an anti-flicker option in the menus. It should always be used when shooting under artificial light without flash.



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Sep 29, 2019 08:57:56   #
camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.
 
Apart from the flicker action of fluorescent lights, are you shooting RAW data? I am asking because JPEG easily will produce banding under certain conditions since you are working with 8 bits of information.

Try the anti-flicker in camera and ALWAYS shoot RAW data. After initial editing of the RAW data save the file as 16bits TIFF to keep working with 16 bits till the time to convert to JPEG.

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Sep 29, 2019 10:37:54   #
Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada
 
I would have thought that banding would be more noticeable with 'LEDs' since they don't have an 'afterglow' from the preheated filament. I've seen it... just didn't understand the mechanism. Thanks.

Dik

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Check out Printers and Color Printing Forum section of our forum.
Sep 29, 2019 13:32:53   #
Camera buyer Loc: Las Vegas
 
I always shoot in RAW. I have made the adjustment in my cameras and will try agin. Thanks for the help.
Camera buyer

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Sep 30, 2019 12:05:05   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
LFingar wrote:
Both of your cameras have an anti-flicker option in the menus. It should always be used when shooting under artificial light without flash.


BINGO!

Anti-Flicker works well! My 7D Mark IIs have it and I've used them with it enabled in some venues where I've always had trouble before, using older camera models without that feature. Where I used to get exposure problems due to the lights in roughly 1/3 to 1/2 my shots... Now by using Anti-Flicker I only see one or two problem images on rare occasion.

Not all lights cycle on and off the same way. Halogen and tungsten don't.

But some like fluorescent and sodium vapor lights most certainly do. Those are commonly used in larger spaces and by businesses.

The example images are showing exposure issues... That's not "banding", as the term is usually used with digital post-processing (where it's caused by insufficient data in images or over-processing).

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