New lens suggestions *Nikon D5500
Aug 6, 2019 19:57:57 #
About halfway through June I found I really like shooting outdoor Softball and Baseball games.
With some tips and suggestions from UHH my results started getting better.
So now for the question.
One thing lacking was my ability to grab outfield shots. My 18-300 just doesn't seem to have the reach.
So now I'm wondering about a Tameron 18-400. Or save my pennies for one of the bigger pro models?
Or any suggestions to up the quality of full zoom action shots?
*Base settings 1500-2000 SS/f8-f11 auto ISO
With some tips and suggestions from UHH my results started getting better.
So now for the question.
One thing lacking was my ability to grab outfield shots. My 18-300 just doesn't seem to have the reach.
So now I'm wondering about a Tameron 18-400. Or save my pennies for one of the bigger pro models?
Or any suggestions to up the quality of full zoom action shots?
*Base settings 1500-2000 SS/f8-f11 auto ISO
Aug 6, 2019 20:16:32 #
Uaana wrote:
About halfway through June I found I really like s... (show quote)
Where were you sitting that 300mm wasn't long enough to get outfield shots?
Aug 6, 2019 20:17:01 #
The Nikon 200-500 solves the reach problem, it's reasonably priced at about $1200 and light enough to hand hold. Prefer it to the Sigma `150-600, but that's probably personal.
Aug 6, 2019 20:31:56 #
Mac wrote:
Where were you sitting that 300mm wasn't long enough to get outfield shots?
I normally camp at the fence next to 3rd or 1st base.
Most of the interesting action happens at 2nd or 3rd, plus it's a good angle for catching the pitcher.
*Its possible I'm over zooming and should just crop in post.
Aug 6, 2019 20:35:23 #
I guess when you crop a image you end up with a lot of grain because of the auto ISO. If you would use 800 ISO you would end up with slower shutter speed and bigger F-stop. If this aren't "important" events I would likely to the closest to one of the base and concentrate whats happen there or I concentrate and follow on just one of the player.
For the 18-400mm lens I would google DOF -Dept the field- calculator.
For the 18-400mm lens I would google DOF -Dept the field- calculator.
Aug 6, 2019 20:36:13 #
Aug 6, 2019 20:58:09 #
You can’t beat the Tamron 18-400 for value and versatility. It will this job and many more. It’s also very affordable.
Aug 6, 2019 21:01:06 #
uhaas2009 wrote:
I guess when you crop a image you end up with a lot of grain because of the auto ISO. If you would use 800 ISO you would end up with slower shutte.
Dropping below 1500 and I'll start getting blurred motions.
Might be an interesting artistic take on things.
Thank you for the suggestion.
Aug 6, 2019 21:11:42 #
I acquired a sigma 150-500mm that would not auto focus on eBay for 168.00 free shipping. It worked great manual focusing. I then sent it to Sigma fit an estimate. They fixed it for 100.00 plus 30.00 shipping. I told them the camera I was using it with a d7200. When it came back it was way Sharper then when I sent it off. Not sure what they did but I'm very picky about sharpness. I was impressed. Moral of the story is maybe you can find a sigma similar to that and have it repaired. I know Nikon charges are very high. Not sure about Tamaron. The sigma service was great and fast. Just a thought. Good luck.
Aug 7, 2019 00:33:27 #
LWW
Loc: Banana Republic of America
Uaana wrote:
Dropping below 1500 and I'll start getting blurred motions.
Might be an interesting artistic take on things.
Thank you for the suggestion.
Might be an interesting artistic take on things.
Thank you for the suggestion.
You shouldn’t.
Have you developed good handholding skills?
Aug 7, 2019 06:50:51 #
First of all, shoot wide-open. Stopping down for sharpness is counter-productive as you have to increase the ISO (grain) and slow down the shutter speed (blur). My friend shoots soccer at night with a 70-200 2.8 wide open with a 70D on jpeg only and never has issues with grain or sharpness, even with cropping in.
Aug 7, 2019 07:08:52 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
Uaana wrote:
About halfway through June I found I really like s... (show quote)
I see by my Nikon compatibility chart that your camera is compatible with the Nikon 200-500 5.6 lens. This is the lens I would recommend. It is great for sports and any action coming your way. Below is a shot taken with that lens at the Field of Dreams in Cooperstown, Pennsylvania.
Aug 7, 2019 07:49:47 #
Something to consider -
https://www.switchbacktravel.com/best-lenses-nikon-d5300
https://www.camerastuffreview.com/en/general/best-lens-nikon-for-d5300
http://www.smashingcamera.com/best-lenses-for-nikon-d5300/
https://www.switchbacktravel.com/best-lenses-nikon-d5300
https://www.camerastuffreview.com/en/general/best-lens-nikon-for-d5300
http://www.smashingcamera.com/best-lenses-for-nikon-d5300/
Aug 7, 2019 09:54:55 #
To answer a few questions that have come up.
1. I was advised that the Nikon 18-300 provides less than ideal quality when opened fully. Hence the f8 f11.
2. Issues with prep Softball-Baseball. I'm usually having to deal with an 8' chain link fence.
So that means getting right on the fence, finding a "hole" that works for comfort and sight angles.
Now think of that restriction when popping from infield to outfield.
If I step up to something like a Sigma 150-600 I end up with all the lens I need, but every shot will be partially obscured by the fence.
Thank you all for the input, it is appreciated
1. I was advised that the Nikon 18-300 provides less than ideal quality when opened fully. Hence the f8 f11.
2. Issues with prep Softball-Baseball. I'm usually having to deal with an 8' chain link fence.
So that means getting right on the fence, finding a "hole" that works for comfort and sight angles.
Now think of that restriction when popping from infield to outfield.
If I step up to something like a Sigma 150-600 I end up with all the lens I need, but every shot will be partially obscured by the fence.
Thank you all for the input, it is appreciated
Aug 7, 2019 10:43:32 #
If Camera shake is the problem and you do not have a tripod with you, be sure to trigger the shot thru the view finder, not the lcd. Go ahead and use the LCD to compose and set up but trigger the shot thru the VF. that way, your entire body acts as a tripod and your forehead is a stable platform.
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