BurghDude

Hello,

I am a novice photographer and I am using a Nikon P1000.

The camera has a 3.2 inch articulating screen. The problem is that on such a small screen, everything looks in focus. Well when I get home and look at the pictures on my computer screen, I find that a lot of the pictures are not in focus.

I would like an larger external screen that I can plug into the camera’s HDMI port so I can see the shot before I take it to verify it is in focus.

I’ve searched the internet and watched a lot of YouTube videos on the subject but they are all video focused. At this time, all I want is a bigger screen to check the focus of a shot before I press the shutter. Maybe one day I’ll be concerned about video but for now I just want a bigger screen to verify the focus of a photograph.

I’m very confused on the subject and if anyone can point me in the right direction, I’d be much appreciative.

Thank you.

rwilson1942 Loc: Houston, TX

Have you considered using the view finder?

rwilson1942 Loc: Houston, TX

Have you considered using the view finder?

BurghDude

I have used the viewfinder, but I forgot to mention that I am partially disabled so it’s very difficult to use the viewfinder, hence the external display.

photogeneralist Loc: Lopez Island Washington State

There is a process called tethering where the image the camera is "seeing" is displayed on the screen of a tablet or laptop computer. The camera is almost totally controlled through the computer. (except for aiming) I sometimes set up my camera on a tripod aimed where I think a bird will land once they habituate to the presence of the camera. Meanwhile , I am inside the house with the laptop where I don't disturb the birds. When the image on the computer screen shows a bird has landed, I click the button on the computer and the camera's shutter fires. The computer becomes an external display which mostly remote controls the camera.
This requires cables between computer and camera. Does this concept sound like it would work for you?

jdubu Loc: San Jose, CA

Yes, tethering your camera (you don't mention what it is) is a viable way to shoot. You don't use the HDMI outlet, rather the USB to plug onto a laptop. Another way is to shoot with a CamRanger (or similar type, like Tether Tools) to wirelessly connect to a tablet or phone. What you see is an extension of live view.

I use these in different situations for architectural shooting. I have also zoomed in on the lcd screen if needed to verify focus if I don't have either above set up.

BurghDude

Thank you photogeneralist and jdubu for your replies. The tethering idea sound like a great solution. I have an older Macbook Air that is small and light enough to carry.

photogeneralist, it sounds like you have a very long tethering cable if your camera is outside and you’re inside. Sorry, I’m so new to this so I don’t know what options I have but yours sounds like it would certainly work for me.

jdubu, thanks for the CamRanger / Tether Tools recommendation, I will look those up and see if either one is compatible with my camera.

I just read on a B&H web post that it is not common for an external monitor to be used in still photography. That seems odd to me, I would think it would be easier to check composition/exposure/focus etc., on a larger screen rather than squinting one-eyed through the viewfinder. But then again I am new to this so what do I know.

george19

I don’t see the P1000 having compatibility with either CamRanger or CaseAir wireless tethering, but there is a tethering mode in LightRoom.

The good news with that is there is no hardware required except for a cable. The bad news is you will be limited by your cable.

This will take a little research to find out if you can tether at all with your camera, and what external device you can tether to (phone, tablet, computer).

WJShaheen Loc: Gold Canyon, AZ

I use this https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1334357-REG/elvid_ocm_7b_4kv2_7_4k_on_camera.html on my Nikon D7500 and it's very effective.

But, since you have an HDMI port, it should work.

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

If your focus point is accurately targeted on your intended subject, the camera will provide sharp focus. There are usually several combinations of focus points and methods that are available in digital cameras that are suited for different kinds of subjects. For example, a "full auto" setting for the focus mode results in the camera assuming that you want the nearest part of a scene to be in focus and will target that subject. Study up on your different focusing modes so you can understand their use.

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

I have bought and used several of these 5" monitors (see link), I have GoPro mounts so I can mount them almost anywhere/to anything, it is an "El Cheapo" drone monitor kit, but is just full of good stuff for the DIY'er, I bought 3 when they were on sale, and have enjoyed using them with both my drone gear and camera gear. This has proven "hands down" to be the least expensive way to a larger monitor, and/or portable monitor for multiple uses. For what they are the video/live view/playback quality is very good. I do use a small external battery/power block so I don't tax the cameras power system.
www.amainhobbies.com/ecopower-fpv-headset-goggles-ecp-2200/p483231

Two are velcro'ed to the back of a SONY DSLR LCD (bought two with bad LCD intending to repair the LCD), then I had the large view screen epiphany, and portable viewscreen linked to the cameras with 5.8GHZ R/C Transmitters/Receivers and Remote Control for camera functions (you can also do this with tablets/laptops/phones and apps) but I love building little setups that are just a little different.
www.amainhobbies.com/ecopower-fpv-headset-goggles-ecp-2200/p483231 The entire kit is $32.00, that's right $32.00 (gotta love the Chinese), and I bought a large GoPro type accessory kit for all the holders and attachment stuff, it was inexpensive off Ebay. Any additional cables and connectors are available cheap for customizing the set-up. They can also be mounted to hot shoe as another option.

I would also recommend looking at some of the newer VR headsets, and glasses with HUD (Heads Up Display) panels built in, another interesting potential, but a bit more costly. Higher quality "Back-up Camera Monitors" also work well (have a couple of those as well, 7" and 9", and I have a little Amazon 7" tablet that works really well for Live View/Camera Control, etc. So many ways to go, another form of tethering.

Do some research, determine how many options you want, and build a little kit. It is generally all "plug-n-play" so other than polarity and good connections, you don't need any electronic skill, you don't even have to solder if you don't want to (they make adapters for everything these days). If you are interested in any of this let me know and I'd be glad to share data and resources. There are other kits and off the shelf set-ups, many, many options. Oh, all the camera functions work fine through the larger screens, like the focus highlighting on the Sony cams. Good luck in your quest.
mike

Al Beatty Loc: Boise, Idaho

I do not have a P1000 but have and use many Nikon camera going all the way back to a Coolpix 995 (2001 era) and all of them allowed me to use a zoom feature in the live view mode. I don't remember the buttons to press on the old 995 but all of my newer camera have a "+" and "-" button on the back that allow zooming in and out. That might work for you. Also, your question about a larger monitor plugged into the HDMI port on your camera works just fine. I've never used a monitor but have used a small TV many times for the purpose you mention. Here are several dslr monitors I found on eBay you may find interesting:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=hdmi+monitor+for+dslr&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=hdmi+monitor Take care & ...

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

The USB specification says that the cable length limit is 5 meters (16+ feet). That's why 15 Ft. is the longest cable sold. But....
I needed more distance between my laptop and EOS 60D. I have a 15 ft. cable and a bunch USB extension cables. Used three 3 ft. extensions. This worked without problems with Canon's EOS Utility 2 program. Was able to sit in my house and get the birds at the feeder without disturbing them. No delay in shutter firing.
No, this isn't "to spec", but it won't hurt/damage anything. Try it with your camera and computer for yourself.

bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada

Do a search on Amazon for 'battery powered hdmi monitor'; lots available. I bought a 8.9" Viltrox monitor (https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-DC-90HD-Monitor-Supports-1920x1200/dp/B01N8Y65F6); works very well for framing and focusing astrophotography shots. I use an external 12 volt power supply but batteries are available.

Be sure to double check the display resolution. A number of units say they are capable of displaying 4K, etc. but have a relatively low resolution display screen. The display on my unit is true HDMI.

bwa