beesue

Can I use an electronic flash in poor lighting conditions and what kind is the best to buy, I have a Canon EOS REBEL T3

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

Canon is up to the T7 series cameras now. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on a Canon Brand flash, unless you will be using it a lot, and upgrade to a higher level Canon camera. I would buy an aftermarket flash, such as a Yongnuo. Flashes, and/or fast lenses, are essential for poor lighting. Yongnuo, is just one of many good aftermarket flashes. Godox is another one to consider. Good luck.

Blenheim Orange Loc: Michigan

I got the LumoPro LP180 about 4 years ago on the advice of David Hobby who runs the Strobist website. It has performed flawlessly and is easy to use.

https://strobist.blogspot.com/2013/07/lumopro-lp180-speedlight-full-walk-thru.html

This page talks about speedlights in general:

https://strobist.blogspot.com/2014/09/choosing-lights.html

The Strobist site has been a big help for me.



We have some experts here, as well.

E.L.. Shapiro runs the Commercial and Industrial Photography section here, and is generous with his time and knowledge.

The Professional and Advanced Portraiture section might help, too.

Mike

jdubu Loc: San Jose, CA

Although a legitimate point of view, I would suggest the opposite because you are not yet skilled with using flash.

There's nothing wrong with your camera and since you don't mention what lenses you have, I will assume they are probably kit lenses. Nothing wrong with them except they will not be as fast as higher end lenses for the most part. Besides, if you are using flash, a slower lens is not particularly a problem.

I suggest getting a used Canon flash instead, because when learning to use flash you want as many advantages as you can get. Using a Canon flash means your camera and flash were built to work together. No hidden problems, no work arounds on flash compatibility, etc. Using an aftermarket flash (besides trying to decipher the instructions from Chinese to Chinese English to actual English and hoping you didn't misunderstand something in that) if a problem arises, you may not know if it's the flash, the camera or translation.

There is nothing wrong with the Asian flashes per se, but for me, their long term life and quality means I don't want to rely on them when I am shooting. Especially, if I am being paid for that shoot. I have older Canon 400 and 500 series flashes that I use en masse if needed and they don't let me down. I also use mono lights, LED lights, Nikon flashes and others in manual mode for when the need arises, so I am not being Canon centric.

Buy a good used Canon flash and you will know how and continue to use it whether you upgrade your camera and lenses or not.

Blenheim Orange Loc: Michigan

Sorry, I used Canon speed lights for decades and have now switched to Godox and Lumipro the last few years with absolutely none of the problems you mention.

Mike

jdubu Loc: San Jose, CA

That is great, but you are misreading my post. I am not advocating against these brands, in fact, I am considering adding the Godox myself. I am only talking about learning to use flash as a newbie. Learning flash with an OEM flash is just simpler without any confusion.

Having used flash for years means changing to your other brands is not a problem because you know how it all works. A beginner doesn't have that experience or skill yet.

Blenheim Orange Loc: Michigan

Thanks. What is it that you think would be more difficult for a newbie with one brand over another? (serious question, not arguing).

Mike

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

Canon has a number of speedlites to chose from, read up on the specs, the choice is yours!

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

The two fastest lenses I have are prime lenses. The Nikon DX 35mm f1.8G, and the Nikon FX 50mm f1.8G. My other lenses are Nikon and Sigma zoom lenses. Not fast like my prime lenses. I also own the Yongnuo #685 Flash unit. No, I am not a pro photographer. A hobbyist/amateur. I have two friends who own newer versions of the Canon crop sensor Rebel Series cameras. One uses a Canon flash, and the other an aftermarket one. And yes, I do own the Nikon 18-55mm kit lens, as well.

jdubu Loc: San Jose, CA

No argument, Those flashes have their place and many users are happy with them. I just feel that the cheaper Yuongno's, Meike's, etc, present challenges to the "starting" flash learner in how they work with the camera. Especially for the price vs a used OEM flash and the short life the cheaper flashes appear to have. A used OEM flash should last you many years of usage and be a fill or second light source when you know what you really want out of a more advanced flash. I have my old camera bodies and flashes because they are useful for certain things. Old lenses are a different story.

That is not to say you cannot learn flash usage with the cheap knock offs, but why make it possibly harder on yourself? You can buy the cheap flashes, I don't consider Godox or Lumipro cheap, but if something doesn't work like you expected AS A NEWBIE, what went wrong? It's harder to figure out the reason, especially if you add into the equation translated settings of an aftermarket flash.

So, I believe that OEM makes the difficulty of learning flash just a little less problematic. No reason you can't learn with any flash, but OEM could make it less frustrating.

Bipod

Given the following facts:
* The EOS Rebel T3 is an entry-level (but decent) DSLR: APS-C format, 12.2 MP
* Therefore it has an EF-S lens mount and takes EF-S lenses
* Production was discontinued by Canon in 2012
* The camera is way out of warranty
It's reasonable to conclude:
* You'll probably be replacing this camera in the next few years

Some additional facts about your camera:
* It uses Canon's E-TTL II wireless flash system--still Canon's latest but now 15 years old
* It has a Canon proprietary hotshoe (with ISO-standad center terminal)

At the time when you replace your camera, it's possible that:
* Canon may have moved on to another iteration of its flash system, say E-TTL III, or
* You may decided to upgrade to a FF DSLR, which means you'll be tossing your lenses, or
* You might decide to buy a mirrorless camera (EF-M mount), or
* You might decide to buy a different brand of camera.

If you buy a different brand of camera, a dedicated Canon speedlite won't work with it,

Therefore, I agree with previous posters: don't buy an expensive Canon speedlite.

That leaves you with four choices:
* Buy a used Canon E-TTL II Speedlite
* Aftermarket E-TTL II compatible speedlite -- cheaper than Canon, but still won't work another brand
of camera.
* Smartflash (also called "thyristor controlled" or "auto thyristor") -- compatible with any camera with a
hotshoe, but doesn't meter through the cameras lens (not "TTL" metering)
* Dumb flash -- compatible with any camera with a hotshoe, , but doesn't meter at all. .

Let's rule out dumb flash. You have to guesstimate the proper exposure by dividing the flashes
"Guide Number" by the distance to the subject. Doesn't take the reflectivity of the room into
account. With experience it can be done, but it's not easy.

You take a risk buying a used speedlite. I just bought a 40 year-old studio flash system and
four heas, and it turned out they all worked perfectly. I got luckly. Also, the manufacturer
is still in business and parts are still available. And I'm retired from the electronics industry
and do all my own repairs. Old speedlites are hard to work on and are rarely worth fixing if
you get charged for the labor. If you find one at at thrift store for $10, buy it!

A brand new ETT-L II aftermarket flash can be alot cheaper than Canon, but it's hard to know
what you're getting in terms of compatibility and quality. Most of them are made in China by
China-based companies. You'd hae to read the reviews carefully.

I would buy a smartflash:
* Works with any camera having a hot shoe
* Does meter reflected light--using a photocell on the flash itself
* Not exccessively expensive

Many older smartf lashes used high voltage that would fry your Canon camera (Nikons can
tolerate higher voltage and old mechanical camers don't care.) That's why I didn't put used
this option on the list. There is an adapter--the Wein Safe-Sync--that allows high voltage
flashes to be used with digital cameras (including Canon), but it's not cheap and getting
hard to find, it's another thing to worry about.

Here are the features to look for in a smat flash (most important first):

1. Manufactuer that has been making strobes for a while. The old standby was Vivitar,
but they are gone. The Vivitar brand is now owned by Sakar International. The new
"Vivitar" 285HV -- introduced by Sakar in 2007--differs in many details from the original.
I don't own the original (and an original 283) so I can't vouch for the copy.

2. "Sufficient light" indicator lamp -- if you take a "test" flash, it tells you if you need to
stand closer to the subject

3. Brightness (in true Watt-seconds)

4. Tiltable head

5. Zoom-able head (to match the angle-of-view of your lens, so you don't waste light)

6. Removable light sensor. If the flash is mounted on a tripod, the sensor can still
be mounted on the camers's hotshoe (using an extension cable that has to
be purchased separately). So far as I know, only the Vivitar 283, 283H, 285, and
285H and the Sakar "Vivitar" 285HV have this feature.

7. Fast recycle time -- not very important for most amateur photography

You may be wondering why it's all so complicated. Primarily, it's because:

* There is no industry standard for TTL-metered flash

* There is no industry standard for hotshoes except the ancient ISO 1-connector
hotshoe (thank heaven we at least have that!)

* Camera buyers tolerate lack of standardization (which car buyers don't tolerate:
Ford cars do not require Ford motor oil or Ford gasoline or Ford tires or Ford
spark plugs or Ford headlights, etc.

* Makers of digital cameras with built-in flash use the flash use the flash for
multiple purposes. Many flash three times per exposure: once to
measure the reflectivity of the room, once to eliminate red-eye, and once
to take the picture!

* Buyers want wireless triggering--which adds a whole new level of complexity

Maybe somebody here has experience with the Sakar "Vivitar" 285HV?
Also, does anybody know if it's still in production?

joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois

Take a look at Godox.

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

Godox has been mentioned in past posts on this forum, with good reviews.

rmorrison1116 Loc: Near Valley Forge, Pennsylvania

It's amazing how such a simple question ended up getting such complex answers. I'd like to point out to Judubu that Canon and Nikon flashes are made in ASIA.
If you want a good well featured flash, that will last a long time if you take care of it, is easy to use and doesn't cost a boatload of money, you can't go wrong with Yongnuo.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

An electronic flash unit is probably one of the most useful accessories you can have for your digital camera. Flash photography has been around for a very long time. In the beginning, it was ignitable flash powder used in a special flash gun. Then there were expendable one use flash bulbs and flash cubes and nowadays it's electronic flash.

Flash has many applications. As you alluded to - when there is insufficient light for practical handheld exposures, flash can enable correct exposure. It can be used in a flash-fill techniques, that is, combined with natural light to add detail to shadows and in a number of very creative ways to simulate natural light. Multiple flash methods are used in professional studios for portraiture, commercial and fashion work. It is often used by professional photojournalists and photographers that specializes in fast action sports photography. Because of its very short flash duration, when used as the primary light source, it can freeze action almost regardless of the shutter speed. When you see images of basketball players frozen in midair, in many cases that effect is enabled by electronic flash.

Some photographers have given flash usage a bad rap. This is because frankly, they don't know how to use it effectively or probably never tried. If it is simply placed on the accessory shoe (hot shoe) atop the camera, it CAN yield, when aimed directly forward, some rather flat or uninteresting results, although it will provide sufficient light to take pictures in low light or dark conditions. There are many simple techniques to avoid this, one of which is bounce lighting, where the light is aimed at a reflective surface indoors- such as a white wall or ceiling. Indirect light is somewhat more natural and assists with working around some of the pitfalls of on-camera direct flash. This is why many of the popular Speedlights, have tiltable and swivel-able heads. There are also accessories called light modifiers that soften, spread, and redirect light in various ways- they attach to the flash unit.

The Canon, as well as many of the better aftermarket units, will interphase with your camera's programmed, TTL and automated features or can be set manually as well. The compatibility wit your camer should be specified in the model designation.

Like everything else in photography, some learning, studying the instructions and reading online or published material on advanced methods will enable you to master the necessary techniques. If you don't want to get into very advanced techniques, most modern Speedlight type units will work decently in the programmed modes.

Brand names- The Canon units are fine. I have several that I use professionally- the Speedlight 430EXII models.

Thesis nothing wrong with the better aftermarket units made by Godox. They should work perfectly with your camera. There is a lot of good photo-electronics that us currently made in China as are all my Canon Speedlights (see the attached photograph of the engraving on the Canon unit.). Godox is one of the brands that has a nice line of flash gear, some of it is of professional caliber.

I can recall a time when Japanese cameras and accessories were reputed to be second rate copies of domestic and German gear- not anymore!

I am sure the instruction manuals supplied with Godox equipment and many of the other imports are properly translated or perhaps even written or printed by the importing domestic distributor. Whatever brand you decide to purchase, make certain to buy it from a reputable dealer that stands behind the gear that they sell.

Be sure to compare all the features to determine which make and models are suitable for your purposes and budget

This is just a brief overview of the products you are inquiring about. All things being equal, your results will depend more on your learning to manage you speedlight, experimenting with it, putting it through its paces and familiarizing yourself with the many techniques.

When you get your flash unit, be sure to read into your camera's manual as to flash usage. There are certain shutter speed limitations for proper flash synchronization. Also, study the instructions supplied with the flash equipment.

If you should upgrade your camera to another Canon model, chances are, you flash unit will remain compatible.

I would advise you not to worry about all kinds of overly complex or sophisticated gear. Some folks get too hung upon complex and sophisticated gear. If you are starting out in photography, the camera you now own is fine and there is nothg wrong with a so-called kit lens lens. Concentrate on maximizing the potental of he equipment you now own and wahtever flash you decide upon. Theses shoud give you many years of service and if your interest grows, you can always augment or upgrade you compliment of gear.