Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Main Photography Discussion
Right angle “lens”
Page <prev 2 of 2
Mar 10, 2019 15:17:11   #
cascoly Loc: seattle
 
Fotoartist wrote:
I had a Spiratone version back in the last century. When I would see people looking at me through it I always wondered if they figured out what I was doing. I felt a little creepy doing it. Is using this device a dishonest intrusion of sorts?


yes, if the people would not otherwise consent to having their pictures taken - I always try to make eye contact first and indicate i'd like to take a picture. eg, in morocco recently most people in the markets would let you take pictures of their stalls but not of them.

Reply
Mar 14, 2019 14:49:28   #
henryp Loc: New York, NY
 
Bower 37mm Right Angle Mirror Lens Attachment
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/464906-REG/

I haven't actually seen one in decades but I do not recall the image quality was breathtaking. YMMV

Reply
Mar 14, 2019 18:20:38   #
User ID
 
Bipod wrote:
Paul Strand used one. He made one, then later bought one.
His had a dummy lens barrel on the front and a hole in the side.

Unfortunately, I don't know the details and I haven't tried it.
Here is what I do know:

There are two kinds: front-surface mirror and right-angle prism.
Mirror is bright, light weight, but lower IQ and easily damaged.
Prism is better IQ, but heavy.

Both will cause cropping with a wide-angle lens (rather like too
long a lens hood would). f-18 is out of the question. f=35 might
be do-able.

Since that Sony lens has a 55 mm filter diameter, you'll need a
fairly large unit. A prism would be fairly heavy and expensive.

If you use an adapter to fit it to the lens, try not to add length.
You wan the mirror or prism as close to the front of the lens as possible.
Paul Strand used one. He made one, then later bo... (show quote)


Close to the front as possible, yes.
What that really gets you is closer
to the optical center. That is your
real goal. And that means a prime,
normal or short tele, is ideal. Long
teles will also work. Zooms have a
lot of extra physical length ahead
of their true optical center, so they
are not the best choice. Obviously
some zooms WILL work.

Have fun hand holding the thing.
It will defy your eye-hand instinct
but a little practice helps.

.

Reply
 
 
Mar 15, 2019 01:01:10   #
Bipod
 
User ID wrote:
Close to the front as possible, yes.
What that really gets you is closer
to the optical center. That is your
real goal. And that means a prime,
normal or short tele, is ideal. Long
teles will also work. Zooms have a
lot of extra physical length ahead
of their true optical center, so they
are not the best choice. Obviously
some zooms WILL work.

Have fun hand holding the thing.
It will defy your eye-hand instinct
but a little practice helps.
Close to the front as possible, yes. br What that... (show quote)

The reason I cautioned against adding length before the
right-angle attachment is angle-of-view: to avoid
encroaching on the edges of the frame.

So for that reason, closer to the lens node is better,
and a wide-angle lens probably won't work.

Reply
Mar 15, 2019 07:18:25   #
JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco
 
Another technique for doing candid street photography is to use a wide angle lens, get close to your subject, and compose with the subject off center, and it looks to them like you are shooting something beyond them, as the camera isn't pointed straight at them.

Reply
Mar 16, 2019 13:55:23   #
Bipod
 
Black body cameras get noticed less than shiney ones. Some street photographers
used to put black electrical tape over the chrome--but that turns into a mess.

Nikon makes a camoflage-colored Coolpix, Aw120, but unfortuantely it's woodland
camaflage and not even a flat finish:
https://www.bonjourlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Nikon-Coolpix-Aw120-Camouflage-Camera-1.jpg

In urban street photography, one is usually too close to people for any camoflage to help much.

Probably the most practical solution when wearing a camera around one's neck is to wear a shirt
the same color as the camera and camera strap. Unfortunately, when the camera is lifted to the
eye, it presents a classic "photographer!" silouette. Here's where you have to hope you are
standing in front of a confusing background.

In rural areas it's different. I have a a few custom camoflaged trail camera installations. The trick
to camaflage is to disrupt shape and outline. This is accomplished by lightening shadowed areas
and interrupting straight lines and sharp edges. (Also, there must be no reflective surfaces and
no fluorescent dyes ("brighteners") in fabric.)

The following resources may be helpful:

US Army FM 21-76: Surival Manual; Chapter 21: Camoflage. Summarized:
https://www.armystudyguide.com/content/army_board_study_guide_topics/camo_and_concealment/personal-camouflage-from-.shtml

US Army FM 20-3: Concealment, Camoflage and Decoys. Summarized:
https://www.armystudyguide.com/content/army_board_study_guide_topics/camo_and_concealment/camo-and-concealment-stud.shtml

Reply
Page <prev 2 of 2
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Main Photography Discussion
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.