Fotoartist wrote:
I had a Spiratone version back in the last century. When I would see people looking at me through it I always wondered if they figured out what I was doing. I felt a little creepy doing it. Is using this device a dishonest intrusion of sorts?
yes, if the people would not otherwise consent to having their pictures taken - I always try to make eye contact first and indicate i'd like to take a picture. eg, in morocco recently most people in the markets would let you take pictures of their stalls but not of them.
Bipod wrote:
Paul Strand used one. He made one, then later bought one.
His had a dummy lens barrel on the front and a hole in the side.
Unfortunately, I don't know the details and I haven't tried it.
Here is what I do know:
There are two kinds: front-surface mirror and right-angle prism.
Mirror is bright, light weight, but lower IQ and easily damaged.
Prism is better IQ, but heavy.
Both will cause cropping with a wide-angle lens (rather like too
long a lens hood would). f-18 is out of the question. f=35 might
be do-able.
Since that Sony lens has a 55 mm filter diameter, you'll need a
fairly large unit. A prism would be fairly heavy and expensive.
If you use an adapter to fit it to the lens, try not to add length.
You wan the mirror or prism as close to the front of the lens as possible.
Paul Strand used one. He made one, then later bo... (
show quote)
Close to the front as possible, yes.
What that really gets you is closer
to the optical center. That is your
real goal. And that means a prime,
normal or short tele, is ideal. Long
teles will also work. Zooms have a
lot of extra physical length ahead
of their true optical center, so they
are not the best choice. Obviously
some zooms WILL work.
Have fun hand holding the thing.
It will defy your eye-hand instinct
but a little practice helps.
.
User ID wrote:
Close to the front as possible, yes.
What that really gets you is closer
to the optical center. That is your
real goal. And that means a prime,
normal or short tele, is ideal. Long
teles will also work. Zooms have a
lot of extra physical length ahead
of their true optical center, so they
are not the best choice. Obviously
some zooms WILL work.
Have fun hand holding the thing.
It will defy your eye-hand instinct
but a little practice helps.
Close to the front as possible, yes. br What that... (
show quote)
The reason I cautioned against adding length before the
right-angle attachment is angle-of-view: to avoid
encroaching on the edges of the frame.
So for that reason, closer to the lens node is better,
and a wide-angle lens probably won't work.
Another technique for doing candid street photography is to use a wide angle lens, get close to your subject, and compose with the subject off center, and it looks to them like you are shooting something beyond them, as the camera isn't pointed straight at them.
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.