I guess that's why lens manufacturers place scales indicating the depth of field on lenses where the scale "expands" towards the infinity mark. They must have been hoodwinked into believing the 1/3-2/3 relationship all these years.
Don't be misled by one particular focusing method, and one that is probably rarely used by the average person on UHH. I find it interesting that one can latch onto one rule of thumb as if it were provided by divine intervention and try to refute another rule of thumb that, in general use, provides a close enough estimate.
--Bob
selmslie wrote:
This appears to be a case of the blind leading the blind. I guess you have not given it much thought.
At one extreme, focusing at the hyperfocal distance the ratio is 1/2 the hyperfocal distance to infinity - the distance beyond the hyperfocal distance.
At the other extreme, anyone who has ever captured a closeup or macro image will know that the ratio approaches 1/2 and 1/2.
In between there is only one distance when the ratio is 1/3-2/3. At all other distances the ratio does not hold. It's one of several DOF myths.
If you want to learn more, see
Depth of Field Myths: The Biggest Misconceptions. This one tops the list.
To learn more, see
DEPTH OF FIELD CALCULATOR at Cambridge in Colour.
This appears to be a case of the blind leading the... (
show quote)
rmalarz wrote:
I guess that's why lens manufacturers place scales indicating the depth of field on lenses where the scale "expands" towards the infinity mark. They must have been hoodwinked into believing the 1/3-2/3 relationship all these years. ...
If you believe that then you are not paying attention or you don't understand DOF.
Maybe
you could learn something from a DOF calculator or from
What is wrong with Depth of Field and Hyperfocal Distance?
selmslie wrote:
Then as a rule of thumb it’s pretty useless.
Why? Every lens and camera situation is different, the distance to subject is different, environment is different. It gets you within the ball park, and you can adjust from there for your specific gear. I have lenses that are way better than the published DOF charts, others fall short, but it also depends on which camera I use them and how much I want to (think anal) pixel peep. To throw another monkey wrench into the mix, what about the hardware and software used? I certainly do not have the sophisticated software and hardware used to determine these results that labs use.
For me,DOF charts are usefull if you are trying to decide between lenses type from different manufacturers. Is it worth spending the money for this X lens or will Y do the same thing for what I do.
I hope this does not come across as an offensive or argumentative reply, but as another way of looking at supposed bench marks. In the real world bench marks go out the window for the most part.
Still, I don't think we have resolved "why" the OP asked his question. I personally would like to know what prompted him.
I'm quite acquainted optical characteristics including, but not limited to DOF.
--Bob
rmalarz wrote:
I'm quite acquainted optical characteristics including, but not limited to DOF.
--Bob
Apparently not.
So why the statement about engraved DOF marks having anything to do with 1/3-2/3?
All you need to do is look at one of those lenses. There is no such relationship!
Really!!?? Have you looked at the DOF scale on a lens lately? The markings increase in distance as one approaches the infinity end of the scale. I'll bet if one looks at the distance indicated on the near side of the focus mark vs. the distance on the far side of the focus mark, the distances will, more than likely, be 1/3:2/3.
I shall examine this hypothesis more closely when I return to my laboratory later this evening.
--Bob
selmslie wrote:
So why the statement about engraved DOF marks having anything to do with 1/3-2/3?
All you need to do is look at one of those lenses. There is no such relationship!
selmslie wrote:
Except that in broad daylight, Sunny 16 actually works. It's not a myth.
Other EV settings for different lighting conditions also work nicely for both film and digital. See
Exposure valueStill a rule of thumb.
Rules of thumb are not steadfast in their meaning, only guides, like the rule of thumb for taking images of stars. May vary per camera.
N4646W wrote:
... I have lenses that are way better than the published DOF charts, others fall short, but it also depends on which camera I use them and how much I want to (think anal) pixel peep. To throw another monkey wrench into the mix, what about the hardware and software used? I certainly do not have the sophisticated software and hardware used to determine these results that labs use. ...
DOF is primarily defined by film or sensor format, focal length, aperture and focus distance. But other factors matter.
Take a look at the
DEPTH OF FIELD CALCULATOR
Focus at 40 feet: 17.49 in front, 139.45 behind - nearly 1:8, not 1:2
(
Download)
Focus at 2 feet: 0.07 in front, 0.07 behind - 1:1, not 1:2
(
Download)
selmslie wrote:
DOF is primarily defined by film or sensor format, focal length, aperture and focus distance. But other factors matter.
Take a look at the
DEPTH OF FIELD CALCULATOR I have two DOF calculators that I sometimes use. They're handy.
rmalarz wrote:
... I'll bet if one looks at the distance indicated on the near side of the focus mark vs. the distance on the far side of the focus mark, the distances will, more than likely, be 1/3:2/3. ...
You would lose that bet as I just showed.
For starters, take any full frame 50mm lens and place the infinity mark at the f/16 mark. You will find the focus point at around 16 feet (the hyperfocal distance) and the near DOF mark over the other f/16 mark at around 8 feet. The calculated DOF would be somewhere between 1390 to infinite.
That's not 1/3-2/3 (1:2). It's closer to 8:infinity.
I nearly always place the far focus mark on infinity... an old photographer showed me that half a century ago.
Dik
TSHDGTL wrote:
My understanding is that a smaller aperture blocks out of focus light. Does this mean wider apertures are using out of focus light to brighten the image?
Smaller apertures will require a longer exposure time in any given available light, today's cameras will adjust the exposure time to properly expose. Smaller apertures will give a greater depth of field, but I am not sure that was your question, the premise of your question I think is wrong, the smaller aperture does not block light so much as it lets less light through from the entire scene which in turn requires a longer exposure time, the "out of focus" area should be exposed the same either way as well as the subject.
Dikdik wrote:
I nearly always place the far focus mark on infinity... an old photographer showed me that half a century ago.
Dik
Take it from another old photographer - if you do that your distant subjects will be at the far limit of the DOF and on the verge of looking blurry.
You also might learnn something useful from
What is wrong with Depth of Field and Hyperfocal Distance?
TSHDGTL wrote:
My understanding is that a smaller aperture blocks out of focus light. Does this mean wider apertures are using out of focus light to brighten the image?
The smaller aperture uses a smaller surface of the lens where the angle of the glass surface to the incident light is less; the depth of field is greater.
Dik
TSHDGTL wrote:
My understanding is that a smaller aperture blocks out of focus light. Does this mean wider apertures are using out of focus light to brighten the image?
May I ask what information prompted you to ask this question? That way maybe we can get your topic back on track. Hopefully someone can help with out hijacking your thread.
Ron
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