What lens, aperture, and shutter speed to use?
Aug 10, 2012 19:23:44 #
Thank you for answering this simple question.
When shooting the Perseids Meteor Showers:
What lens?
What aperture?
What shutter speed?
CPL or not?
ND or not?
I am using a tripod and cabled remote release. I have seen the other thread on UHH that suggested wide open aperture, long shutter speed, and manual focus at infinity.
Long exposure makes sense to me, but I would think a narrow aperture makes more sense. Manual focus at infinity makes sense also.
The one area, that I am most confused about is what lens is best to use? You can see below, I have a choice. I do not plan to use macro lenses. Wide angle or zoom or super zoom? I am thinking I would do fine with the 18-250, but do I need more zoom and the 200-500 is better?
Thank you for answering.
When shooting the Perseids Meteor Showers:
What lens?
What aperture?
What shutter speed?
CPL or not?
ND or not?
I am using a tripod and cabled remote release. I have seen the other thread on UHH that suggested wide open aperture, long shutter speed, and manual focus at infinity.
Long exposure makes sense to me, but I would think a narrow aperture makes more sense. Manual focus at infinity makes sense also.
The one area, that I am most confused about is what lens is best to use? You can see below, I have a choice. I do not plan to use macro lenses. Wide angle or zoom or super zoom? I am thinking I would do fine with the 18-250, but do I need more zoom and the 200-500 is better?
Thank you for answering.
Aug 10, 2012 20:05:31 #
Shooting meteors:
Rule #1: find a DARK sky. Light pollution quickly "fogs" time exposures.
Rule #2: Get a STABLE tripod. Most simply are not.
Rule #2A: Get a clock driven equatorial mount, align it to Polaris, and guide your time exposures so the stars stay as little points, not little arcs. This is expensive.
Rule #3: Use the fastest, widest angle lens you have. Focus accurately on infinity, shoot WIDE OPEN, f/1.4 or faster would be good. ISO 400-800 should be fast enough. ND filters are for DAYTIME, never night shooting.
Rule #4: If you have not so wide angle a lens, use the 18-250 AT 18mm, wide open, at ISO 800 to compensate fro lens slowness, and DO NOT POINT at Perseus, rather to the north, south, east, or west (choose) of it. The constellation from which a meteor shower radiates means all the meteor trails point back TO that constellation. The meteor trails can be quite a distance from the constellation.
Rule #4a: Get the 6mm f/2.8 Nikkor and a Nikon D800. Just point UP and you will catch the WHOLE meteor shower.
Rule #5: BULB is the ONLY exposure required for meteor shooting. Your exposure will be 10-30 seconds PER frame, but CHECK to see how many seconds is needed to fog your shot. Shoot only close to, but not all the way to fogging point. The problem with meteors is they are not scheduled. Sometimes photo miracles happen with massive quantities, but this is rare. The Perseids is one of the best meteor showers of the year, kind of slow and BRIGHT.
Rule #6: End your exposure when you think you've caught a meteor on the frame. This prevents excess fog.
Rule #7: The Hat Wave Technique. If your tripod is less than stable, and 90+ percent of tripods are NOT stable (even if your spent $500 on it,) you should always use the hat wave technique to do your exposure. Here is how it works: you put a hat, or black card, in front of, but not touching your lens. You fire the camera with the image blocked. You WAIT a few seconds, standing VERY still. This allows the shakiness of the tripod to subside and settle. You wave the hat or card away and count out your exposure. You wave the hat/card back in place and end the exposure. This provides best results. Amateur astronomers have been doing it for about 100 years.
Rule #1: find a DARK sky. Light pollution quickly "fogs" time exposures.
Rule #2: Get a STABLE tripod. Most simply are not.
Rule #2A: Get a clock driven equatorial mount, align it to Polaris, and guide your time exposures so the stars stay as little points, not little arcs. This is expensive.
Rule #3: Use the fastest, widest angle lens you have. Focus accurately on infinity, shoot WIDE OPEN, f/1.4 or faster would be good. ISO 400-800 should be fast enough. ND filters are for DAYTIME, never night shooting.
Rule #4: If you have not so wide angle a lens, use the 18-250 AT 18mm, wide open, at ISO 800 to compensate fro lens slowness, and DO NOT POINT at Perseus, rather to the north, south, east, or west (choose) of it. The constellation from which a meteor shower radiates means all the meteor trails point back TO that constellation. The meteor trails can be quite a distance from the constellation.
Rule #4a: Get the 6mm f/2.8 Nikkor and a Nikon D800. Just point UP and you will catch the WHOLE meteor shower.
Rule #5: BULB is the ONLY exposure required for meteor shooting. Your exposure will be 10-30 seconds PER frame, but CHECK to see how many seconds is needed to fog your shot. Shoot only close to, but not all the way to fogging point. The problem with meteors is they are not scheduled. Sometimes photo miracles happen with massive quantities, but this is rare. The Perseids is one of the best meteor showers of the year, kind of slow and BRIGHT.
Rule #6: End your exposure when you think you've caught a meteor on the frame. This prevents excess fog.
Rule #7: The Hat Wave Technique. If your tripod is less than stable, and 90+ percent of tripods are NOT stable (even if your spent $500 on it,) you should always use the hat wave technique to do your exposure. Here is how it works: you put a hat, or black card, in front of, but not touching your lens. You fire the camera with the image blocked. You WAIT a few seconds, standing VERY still. This allows the shakiness of the tripod to subside and settle. You wave the hat or card away and count out your exposure. You wave the hat/card back in place and end the exposure. This provides best results. Amateur astronomers have been doing it for about 100 years.
Aug 10, 2012 20:57:24 #
Wow, thanks a bunch PhotoArtsLA. The photo authority has spoken :) :thumbup:
I certainly enjoy it when you have time to post here amongst us (mostly) rank amateurs :)
I certainly enjoy it when you have time to post here amongst us (mostly) rank amateurs :)
Aug 10, 2012 21:28:09 #
I understand most of the reply but need a little help with Rule #3 quote "Focus accurately on infinity". Thanks
Aug 11, 2012 00:46:08 #
Thank you, PhotoArtsLA.
I will use my 10-20mm lens, aperture as wide as it will go. ISO at 800. Exposure of 10 seconds or longer if needed. I will try that hat technique.
Again, your answer is extremely helpful, thank you.
The weather is going to clear after an 88 degree day. I am meeting with two photography meetup groups at a state park about 35 miles west of the city lights of Portland.
However, I am "branded" with Sony. Maybe, this new full frame Sony is releasing in October. For now my two A500's are doing just fine.
I will use my 10-20mm lens, aperture as wide as it will go. ISO at 800. Exposure of 10 seconds or longer if needed. I will try that hat technique.
Again, your answer is extremely helpful, thank you.
The weather is going to clear after an 88 degree day. I am meeting with two photography meetup groups at a state park about 35 miles west of the city lights of Portland.
However, I am "branded" with Sony. Maybe, this new full frame Sony is releasing in October. For now my two A500's are doing just fine.
Aug 11, 2012 02:21:00 #
TNmike wrote:
I understand most of the reply but need a little help with Rule #3 quote "Focus accurately on infinity". Thanks
It would be best to focus using manual mode. In that you will be shooting wide open, getting it sharp will be tough unless you can catch the moon. With a very wide lens, you MIGHT be able to get away with manual setting the tick mark to the infinity focus mark on the lens.
It was SOO much easier in the olde days of manual metal lenses. You just set to infinity and taped the lens in place. An issue with manual focus on modern lenses which use electric motors to focus is, when you focus and then point the camera up or down, it can, mechanically, "walk" out of focus.
Basically, keep a check on focus through the night.
Aug 11, 2012 06:24:15 #
chapjohn wrote:
Thank you for answering this simple question. br ... (show quote)
Everything on manual no auto.
no exposure longer than 25-30 seconds otherwise you will start to get star trails.
If you have 2 cameras and lens set on up for an hour exposure, point the lens at the north star you will get star trails with meteors showing up as a straight line
wide angle lens
Aug 11, 2012 10:00:40 #
PhotoArtsLA - that was a great "tutorial" on set up and shooting meteors. Much appreciated
Aug 11, 2012 10:49:23 #
Aug 12, 2012 16:55:22 #
To report as the last follow up on this thread.
I ued my Sigma 10-20mm less set at 12mm, manual focus at infinity. 30 second exposure. ISO at 6400. I never thought I would a 30 second exposure and a high ISO for the same shot, but it produced the images. I would liken shooting the meteor shower to fishin--you have to have your camera point in the right direction and shutter open at the right time, but you can not be accurate with either one.
Thank you to all who answered, I learned much for your inforation and learned by praciting what was shared.
I ued my Sigma 10-20mm less set at 12mm, manual focus at infinity. 30 second exposure. ISO at 6400. I never thought I would a 30 second exposure and a high ISO for the same shot, but it produced the images. I would liken shooting the meteor shower to fishin--you have to have your camera point in the right direction and shutter open at the right time, but you can not be accurate with either one.
Thank you to all who answered, I learned much for your inforation and learned by praciting what was shared.
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