Help with Portraits
Dec 25, 2018 09:55:41 #
Dec 25, 2018 10:02:02 #
CO wrote:
This is all true but who is going to crop a wide a... (show quote)
No argument from me. Of course I am not suggesting that you use a 14 mm lens and do a headshot with the camera 20 ft away from the subject then crop the result. But the point I am making - is that the illusion of compression is not a function of focal length or optics - it is purely a function of subject to camera distance. That's why you CAN crop the wide shot and see no difference relative to compression/extension when you compare to the same shot done with a tele lens - provided you don't change the distance between the subject and the camera.
Dec 26, 2018 06:28:06 #
Perspective forshortening---the Cyrano de Bergerac look. 
One wouldn't want to make a portrait that looks like this:
https://c8.alamy.com/comp/DGPP0M/man-with-a-big-nose-distorted-portrait-DGPP0M.jpg
One wouldn't want to make a portrait that looks like this:
https://c8.alamy.com/comp/DGPP0M/man-with-a-big-nose-distorted-portrait-DGPP0M.jpg
Dec 26, 2018 11:15:46 #
Bipod wrote:
Perspective forshortening---the Cyrano de Bergerac look.
One wouldn't want to make a portrait that looks like this:
https://c8.alamy.com/comp/DGPP0M/man-with-a-big-nose-distorted-portrait-DGPP0M.jpg
One wouldn't want to make a portrait that looks like this:
https://c8.alamy.com/comp/DGPP0M/man-with-a-big-nose-distorted-portrait-DGPP0M.jpg
EEEEKKK!
Dec 26, 2018 12:17:37 #
Dec 26, 2018 12:20:51 #
Bipod wrote:
Perspective forshortening---the Cyrano de Bergerac look.
One wouldn't want to make a portrait that looks like this:
https://c8.alamy.com/comp/DGPP0M/man-with-a-big-nose-distorted-portrait-DGPP0M.jpg
One wouldn't want to make a portrait that looks like this:
https://c8.alamy.com/comp/DGPP0M/man-with-a-big-nose-distorted-portrait-DGPP0M.jpg
I did one like that of a goat with my 8mm fisheye. Lucky for me I shot and pulled away quickly. The goat was just about to eat my lens shade!
Dec 26, 2018 15:24:12 #
No lights, No Background, No studio kinda setup? Not to worry as long as you home has windows! So here are the simple direction for instant successful portraits by window light.
The best window light usually comes form a window with norther exposure or skylight- not bright direct sun. If you don't have a window like that, you can diffuse the light- I use a simple cheap shower curtain (kinda frosted plastic). I purchased mine a the Dollar Store for 3 bucks. Overcast or cloudy/bright light can work too.
The window becomes your light source- do not include it in the image. Place the subject near the window and have them turn their head into the light until the lighting you like is achieved. You cant move the light source, so you move the subject into the lighting. One side of the subject's face will be in shadow so use a sheet of aluminum foil on a piece of cardboard as a reflector. Crush the foil and re-expand it so it is crinkled and tape, glue or staple it to a piece if stiff cardboard or Foam-Cor. Use the shiny side- it has the same efficiency as a "super-silver" reflector. In the final image- I retouched out the secondary catch-light from the eyes- I let it in here so you coud see the direction of the fill source.
If there are curtains or drapes on the window you can close them partially so that shade the wall behind the subject- if the is less light in the wall than there is on the subject, it will go nicely dark. OR- as I have done in the attached image, pull one of the drapes in back of the subject in a diagonal fashion- keep it it of focus by reducing depth of field by means of a wide aperture.
Focal length- For a cropped sensor camera use 50mm (zoom setting or prime lens) for full frame sensor go to 85 to 105mm for good perspective. in head shots- you can go to a 3/4 length view as well.
The close the s subject is to the wind- the softer the lighting, the further away, the lightg will become a bit harder.
I have use this method many times- at weddigs, for the formal portraits whe there are small quarters and no room to set up elaborate lights- the results can be surprisingly outstanding.
This formula works if you follow the instructions!
The attached image data: F.5.6 @ 1/6 sec ISO 100. I was on an interior shoot fro a magazine article to show a lighting installation- strictly available light- I had no lighting gear with me. One of the young interior decorators told me she needed a quick headshot to go with the article and to make the deadline it hand to be done right away. She went home to get into a nice dress- I told here to bring me some foil on her way back. I finished my interior shot and we did the head shot in 5 minutes.
If you want to do a "Christmas Time" theme in you shot- just include a few Christmas tree branches or ornaments- out of focus in the background.
Your biggest expense will be a a roll of foil and a sheet of cardboard. No muss- no fuss!
The best window light usually comes form a window with norther exposure or skylight- not bright direct sun. If you don't have a window like that, you can diffuse the light- I use a simple cheap shower curtain (kinda frosted plastic). I purchased mine a the Dollar Store for 3 bucks. Overcast or cloudy/bright light can work too.
The window becomes your light source- do not include it in the image. Place the subject near the window and have them turn their head into the light until the lighting you like is achieved. You cant move the light source, so you move the subject into the lighting. One side of the subject's face will be in shadow so use a sheet of aluminum foil on a piece of cardboard as a reflector. Crush the foil and re-expand it so it is crinkled and tape, glue or staple it to a piece if stiff cardboard or Foam-Cor. Use the shiny side- it has the same efficiency as a "super-silver" reflector. In the final image- I retouched out the secondary catch-light from the eyes- I let it in here so you coud see the direction of the fill source.
If there are curtains or drapes on the window you can close them partially so that shade the wall behind the subject- if the is less light in the wall than there is on the subject, it will go nicely dark. OR- as I have done in the attached image, pull one of the drapes in back of the subject in a diagonal fashion- keep it it of focus by reducing depth of field by means of a wide aperture.
Focal length- For a cropped sensor camera use 50mm (zoom setting or prime lens) for full frame sensor go to 85 to 105mm for good perspective. in head shots- you can go to a 3/4 length view as well.
The close the s subject is to the wind- the softer the lighting, the further away, the lightg will become a bit harder.
I have use this method many times- at weddigs, for the formal portraits whe there are small quarters and no room to set up elaborate lights- the results can be surprisingly outstanding.
This formula works if you follow the instructions!
The attached image data: F.5.6 @ 1/6 sec ISO 100. I was on an interior shoot fro a magazine article to show a lighting installation- strictly available light- I had no lighting gear with me. One of the young interior decorators told me she needed a quick headshot to go with the article and to make the deadline it hand to be done right away. She went home to get into a nice dress- I told here to bring me some foil on her way back. I finished my interior shot and we did the head shot in 5 minutes.
If you want to do a "Christmas Time" theme in you shot- just include a few Christmas tree branches or ornaments- out of focus in the background.
Your biggest expense will be a a roll of foil and a sheet of cardboard. No muss- no fuss!
Dec 26, 2018 15:42:33 #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
No lights, No Background, No studio kinda setup? ... (show quote)
Thank you, this is helpful information.
Dec 26, 2018 16:20:27 #
Wingpilot wrote:
Thank you, this is helpful information.
You are very welcome! Best of the season and Happy New Year!
Dec 26, 2018 16:51:04 #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
You are very welcome! Best of the season and Happy New Year!
And a Happy New Year to you, too.
Dec 26, 2018 17:40:16 #
Hi gang!
If I coud just contribute few points to the conversation- just for folks that are new to portraiture who may be reading on.
In TRADITIONAL portraiture- not special effects or anythg that would cause (artistic) distortion, in general portraiture, for an aesthetically pleasing effect that the subject would pleas the subject, the focal length and camer position is important. Of course, that is if you want a good likeness and a flattering result. For a head and shoulder or 3/4 length portrait with a full frame body the recommended focal length is between 85mm and 105mm or between 50mm and 75, got a cropped sensor system. At a working distance of between 7 and 3 feet the perspective and perceived compression at normal view distances should be well in control and normal. The camer should be place at a height at about the subject's eye level or slightly higher.
Prime lenses are fine, however zooms are perfectly usable and useful. Most modern high quality zoom lenses are sharp enough for portraiture. To maintain perspectives, the aforementioned distances should be observed, however, slight adjustment in focal length to accommodate composition can still work well. With active subject, such young a children, it is easier to zoom in and out SLIGHTLY rather that having the move the camera back and forth, especially if a tripod or camera stand is employed.
The issues of distance and focal length have apply to all kinds of lightg, natural, continuous,tungsten, electronic flash etc.
For full length portraits and gorups, of course the distances will increase and it may becme necessary to revert to the "normal" focal for the format in use to accommodate space restrictions and more workable camera to subject distances.
Wide angle lenses can be use for portraiture where the background elements need to be rendered in sharper detail. With full frame camera a 35mm lens can work as long as the camera is kept parallel to the subject. Usually a 3/4 length portrait is best for this treatment with the camera a the subject's chest level. Posers where the subjects arms are too far forward of the body should be avoided prevent (elongation) distortion. See attached image of a wide angle portrait with a 35mm lens.
If I coud just contribute few points to the conversation- just for folks that are new to portraiture who may be reading on.
In TRADITIONAL portraiture- not special effects or anythg that would cause (artistic) distortion, in general portraiture, for an aesthetically pleasing effect that the subject would pleas the subject, the focal length and camer position is important. Of course, that is if you want a good likeness and a flattering result. For a head and shoulder or 3/4 length portrait with a full frame body the recommended focal length is between 85mm and 105mm or between 50mm and 75, got a cropped sensor system. At a working distance of between 7 and 3 feet the perspective and perceived compression at normal view distances should be well in control and normal. The camer should be place at a height at about the subject's eye level or slightly higher.
Prime lenses are fine, however zooms are perfectly usable and useful. Most modern high quality zoom lenses are sharp enough for portraiture. To maintain perspectives, the aforementioned distances should be observed, however, slight adjustment in focal length to accommodate composition can still work well. With active subject, such young a children, it is easier to zoom in and out SLIGHTLY rather that having the move the camera back and forth, especially if a tripod or camera stand is employed.
The issues of distance and focal length have apply to all kinds of lightg, natural, continuous,tungsten, electronic flash etc.
For full length portraits and gorups, of course the distances will increase and it may becme necessary to revert to the "normal" focal for the format in use to accommodate space restrictions and more workable camera to subject distances.
Wide angle lenses can be use for portraiture where the background elements need to be rendered in sharper detail. With full frame camera a 35mm lens can work as long as the camera is kept parallel to the subject. Usually a 3/4 length portrait is best for this treatment with the camera a the subject's chest level. Posers where the subjects arms are too far forward of the body should be avoided prevent (elongation) distortion. See attached image of a wide angle portrait with a 35mm lens.
Dec 26, 2018 17:46:07 #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Hi gang! br br If I coud just contribute few poi... (show quote)
Thanks, I'll keep this in mind.
Dec 26, 2018 18:24:38 #
berchman
Loc: South Central PA
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
See attached image of a wide angle portrait with a 35mm lens.
Would some kind of matte makeup have gotten rid of the shiny spots on cheeks, forehead and tip of nose?
Dec 26, 2018 18:27:10 #
berchman
Loc: South Central PA
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
One of the young interior decorators told me she needed a quick headshot to go with the article and to make the deadline it hand to be done right away.
"Young"? She looks to be in her early teens. An interior decorator?
Dec 26, 2018 21:15:22 #
berchman wrote:
Would some kind of matte makeup have gotten rid of the shiny spots on cheeks, forehead and tip of nose?
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