Long heavy lens tips (Page 2): This is an internet picture of the exact same tripod (Davis & Sanford). I am checking out all the points that could be causing the problem. I have had it...

rb61 Loc: Maple Grove, MN

RWR wrote:

Obviously your tripod is not sturdy enough for your touch.

This is an internet picture of the exact same tripod (Davis & Sanford). I am checking out all the points that could be causing the problem. I have had it for approximately 40+years and it has never had this kind of a front heavy lens on it so I may have to bring it back to factory specs- or $$$.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

rb61 wrote:

This is an internet picture of the exact same tripod (Davis & Sanford). I am checking out all the points that could be causing the problem. I have had it for approximately 40+years and it has never had this kind of a front heavy lens on it so I may have to bring it back to factory specs- or $$$.

For sure nothing should move with just the weight of your hand on it. Hopefully it’s something simple.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

rb61 wrote:

This is an internet picture of the exact same tripod (Davis & Sanford). I am checking out all the points that could be causing the problem. I have had it for approximately 40+years and it has never had this kind of a front heavy lens on it so I may have to bring it back to factory specs- or $$$.

I checked the specifications (should have done so before my first comment!). Your camera/lens combined are lighter than my 50 f/2.8 PC/TS lens, I think you can eliminate the tripod, though you do have to ensure all is tight and it’s on solid ground. If so, the culprit is most likely the tripod collar, lens mount, or focusing ring. There should be no slop at all in either place. Good luck!

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

rb61 wrote:

This is an internet picture of the exact same tripod (Davis & Sanford). I am checking out all the points that could be causing the problem. I have had it for approximately 40+years and it has never had this kind of a front heavy lens on it so I may have to bring it back to factory specs- or $$$.

This is not a particularly stable tripod, certainly not with a lens that offers a field of vies of 8° - equivalent to a 600mm lens on a full frame camera. The tripod stability required for either is the same. Tripod stability has absolutely nothing to do with load capacity. And a 2.2 lb lens with a 1.25 lb camera is not a heavy load in any case.

Stability is best predicted by the diameter of the top tube section, which in your tripod is pretty thin. So the answer to your predicament is to rely on your camera's in body image stabilization and shoot hand-held, or get yourself a decent tripod - and plan on spending in the range of $600 (Feisol CT3472) or higher for something stable.

wildweasel

rb61 wrote:

I have an Olympus OMD E_M10II. Olympus has a elect... (show quote)

I have an EM 1 Mark ll and I also balked at 60 bucks for a cable release until someone on the M 43 forum tipped me off on trying my cable release from my nikon D750 and it works fine. It is one of the 10 dollar cable releases.

DEBJENROB Loc: DELRAY BEACH FL

rb61 wrote:

I received a mint legacy Olympus 300mm f4.5 today. After mounting the camera and lens on a sturdy tripod using the tripod collar, I noticed that the image moved slightly when I depressed the shutter release. Other than using the camera functions that trip the shutter without human intervention, any tips for stabilizing this hunk?

Thanks

Use the cameras built in timer

kschwegl Loc: Orangeburg, NY

rb61 wrote:

I received a mint legacy Olympus 300mm f4.5 today. After mounting the camera and lens on a sturdy tripod using the tripod collar, I noticed that the image moved slightly when I depressed the shutter release. Other than using the camera functions that trip the shutter without human intervention, any tips for stabilizing this hunk?

Thanks

Did you turn vibration control OFF? Did you use a remote release? Same thing happened to me when I forgot to turn vibration control off.

Ken S.

sergiohm

rb61 wrote:

I have an Olympus OMD E_M10II. Olympus has a elect... (show quote)

Set the shoot mode to antishock-12secs, it will set a 12s timer. If your subject is moving, set it to antishock, if you don’t want to buy the shutter release cable use the iPhone/android app provided by Olympus.

Low Budget Dave

The general rule I always heard was 1/[focal length]. So at 400mm, 1/400 is a good start. It doesn't mean you have to stay there, it is just a start.

If you have steady hands (I don't), you can rest your hand out near the end of the lens and stop some of the wobble. If you have lowered your shutter speed to keep your ISO down, then consider using the timer. The 2-second timer gives me plenty of time to take my hands completely off the camera.

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

rb61 wrote:

I received a mint legacy Olympus 300mm f4.5 today. After mounting the camera and lens on a sturdy tripod using the tripod collar, I noticed that the image moved slightly when I depressed the shutter release. Other than using the camera functions that trip the shutter without human intervention, any tips for stabilizing this hunk?

Thanks

Mirror lock-up with auto release.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

I wondered if your long lens is tipping, or if you were going to offer tips about using a long lens.

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

Low Budget Dave wrote:

The general rule I always heard was 1/[focal length]. So at 400mm, 1/400 is a good start. It doesn't mean you have to stay there, it is just a start.

If you have steady hands (I don't), you can rest your hand out near the end of the lens and stop some of the wobble. If you have lowered your shutter speed to keep your ISO down, then consider using the timer. The 2-second timer gives me plenty of time to take my hands completely off the camera.

I am not so sure that rule holds true, with the higher density of today's sensors I find the rule a bit lacking. I do know that for a crop sensor you have to be more careful than with a full sensor with similar Megapixels, I know that shooting with a 50mp full frame is a bit different than shooting with a 20mp full frame.

agillot

there is a u tube video that show how to use a heavy lens on a tripod to minimize motions .i have same issue with a 800mm f8 , heavy .difficult to hold steady .basically , you put your left hand on middle/top of lens and push down , also push your face against the view finder , roll your finger on the already slightly depressed shutter button .also a high end tripod and gimball head . also tighten everything .

Chris Hayes

Check out Back country Gallery, Steve Perry, for his video's on the proper techniques for long lens on a tripod. Moose Peterson also has some good videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EI7BCMZaxE

Watch and you will see how its done.

Chris

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

rb61 wrote:

I never considered of using equipment with these techniques. I understand, because it sounds a lot like shooting a traditional recurve bow. Technique consisting of several steps is everything.

I look forward to trying your suggestions.

I have several new smaller lenses ranging from wide angle 12/24mm equiv. to 150/300mm equiv. 600mm is a new challenge for me. Bird images on this and other sites sucked me in. The 24mm is still my favorite.

Thanks

Actually, I borrowed them from a renowned wildlife photographer, Moose Peterson.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8HVPrPzpR4