Ob1 Loc: Utah

Listen to Steve Perry’s video on use of a polarizer for cutting glare. It is very informative.

Bipod

If a circular polarizer filter didn't fix the problem, then it's probably not glare.

The posted photos are consistently low-constrast. This cannot entirely be explained by over-exposure.
I suspect you are getting flare from the lens and/or from inside the camera.

The only way to avoid that is to try excluding large bright areas from the frame. That's probably
not feasible, given your subject..

First try the longest lens hood you have that doesn't intrude into the frame (for given lens focal length).
That might help, a little.

If it's not enough, then try a different lens--one with better coatings throughout. (If you said what lens you
are using, I missed it--sorry). All else being equal, the fewer the groups (of elements) in a lens, the
less flare. Zoom lenes can have a lot: e.g. Canon 70-200mm f/4L IS (20 elements and 15 groups).
Even if those 30 surfaces are mutli-coated to perfection, you gotta expect some flare.

For comparison, prime focus lenes:
Normal:
Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 (7 elements in 6 groups)
Nikon AF FX NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8D (6 elements in 5 groups)

Short-tele ("portrait"):
Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 (9 elements in 7 groups)
Nikon AF-S 85mm f/1.8G (9 elements in 9 groups)

Tele:
Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II (9 elements in 7 groups)
Nikon AF FX NIKKOR 200mm f/2G ED VR II (13 elements in 9 groups)

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

Low contrast? The highlights are blown, and the shadows (faces) are too dark. That's too much contrast. I don't see anything that looks like flare.

DaveO Loc: Northeast CT

If need be, maybe the game could be played side to side instead of end to end.

LESTAHL Loc: Colorado

Oh, I thought this would be about "shooting sports."

Bipod

It's a good question.

You can blow highlights and have flare too -- happens all the time. And flare is not necessarily
visible as such. All lenses have some amount of internal flare when confronted by bright areas.

Some of the shadows are dark. But others look lighter than they should be--given
a clear blue sky. Grass does not reflect much light up onto uniforms.

We're talking about two different things: local contrast and global contrast. Global contrast
is high, but local contrast looks washed out in places.

Flare can reduce local constrast, while not affecting global contrast. Or it can affect the whole
frame--it depends on precisely where in lens or camera the flare is happening. Hard to predict.

Unfortunately, it is possible to take a photo that is both too contrasty and not contrasty enough at
the same time (in different areas)! I think that's what we're seeing here.

Remember, a totally burned out shadow could be reduced by as much as 1 stop and still
look pure black. You can pour a lot of flare into a black hole before it starts to show
texture. That's why Tiffen makes its Ultra Contrast filter (which creates invisible flare in order to
reduce global contrast) in 8 densities, 1/8 to 5.

If blown highlights and burned shadows were all that was wrong with these photos, they would
look much better than they do. (That's why glare was suggested--and it's a great suggestion.
But it can't explain why shadows on the uniforms appear washed out.)

David in Dallas Loc: Dallas, Texas, USA

PP=Post Processing. Adjustment of various photo attributes using software (Photoshop, Lightroom, etc.).

DaveO Loc: Northeast CT

LOL, so did I!

David in Dallas Loc: Dallas, Texas, USA

Meaning sports done with firearms or archery? That was my first thought, too.

DaveO Loc: Northeast CT

LESTAHL Loc: Colorado

yep!

catchlight.. Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway

Understanding white and color cast will be your biggest gain.... you are not over exposed. I see no others addressing the color cast problem here.

The Colts uniform is white not blue or magenta ...

Bipod

The purpose of a lens hood isn't just to keep direct sunlight from falling on the front surface
at a high angle, causing visible flare (although that's important). It's also to light from
bright areas outside the frame from entering the lens and reducing contast (not necessarily
evenly).

IMHO, uncoated lenses or any lens having more than 5 groups (arbitrary, but reasonable)
should always be hooded when shooting outdoors on bright days.

tomcat

I agree. I shoot soccer all the time in bright sunshine and I never have these problems. Perhaps the OP can share us his camera, lens, metadata for us to compare his shooting conditions?

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

Yes, the part of the white uniforms in the shadows have a slight color cast, but the whites in the sun are definitely blown.