Takyo485 Loc: Planet Earth

Sorry not mention what lens i used. Its a Summarit 1.5cm 1:1.5

Takyo485 Loc: Planet Earth

Thank you so much for this very detailed informations. This will help me and others who are interested on film photography. Right now, I am using Summarit 1.5cm 1:1.5 lens.

rck281 Loc: Overland Park, KS

This is probably for Kodachrome 64.

rck281 Loc: Overland Park, KS

I have a M3 system with 4 lenses and love it. I really don't shoot much film anymore but the M3 is easy to use and the lenses are sharp. The meter you have will scratch the top if you take it on and off, so be careful. Look up instructions on how to install the meter as it couples with the shutter speed dial. I use my 50mm f2.0 dual range Summicron for most photography. The 35mm lens is expensive as it has a viewfinder/rangefinder adapter. PM me if you need instruction.

joesesto Loc: Nipomo, CA (Central Coast, CA)

John Sexton was a Monterey photographer associated with Ansel Adams. Sexton and 2 others conducted Owens Valley photo seminars decades ago. John had a series of 4 Ansel’s Moonrise work prints that he showed the group. The worst print you could image was a straight one like a big contact print. Then each successively showed the effects of dodging, masking, burning in, etc. The final print’s white back had Ansel’s penciled notes indicating what he did in each area. I forget exactly how long it took to produce a single print he could sign, but it was several hours. I vaguely recall Adams preferred to print them at night.

BTW I agree with you about incident meters for negs and digital, but when it came to slide film in any format my trusty 1 degree Minolta spot meter was on my belt for every shot. Adams was shooting sheet film and the Zone System dictated that he know the contrast range of the image, so (my guess) the spot meter gave him more information. It might even dictate the developer or development time of a single neg.

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

With tongue firmly in cheek, why would you want to sell it? I thought the light meter belonged to the OP.

Dennis

wrangler5 Loc: Missouri

I saw a copy (probably online, not an actual print) of the straight Moonrise negative and it was indeed horrible. It's a testament to Adams' printing skills - and his visualization - that let him create the remarkable image that we all know.

As for spot meters - they do indeed provide the ultimate in detailed information, if you know what to do with it. But the OP seemed to indicate uncertainty about focusing a lens, and basic exposure, from which I sort of concluded that a spot meter probably would not be the best way to START measuring light.

joesesto Loc: Nipomo, CA (Central Coast, CA)

[quote=wrangler5

As for spot meters - they do indeed provide the ultimate in detailed information, if you know what to do with it. But the OP seemed to indicate uncertainty about focusing a lens, and basic exposure, from which I sort of concluded that a spot meter probably would not be the best way to START measuring light./quote]

I goofed...my reply was meant for you not the OP. I haven’t been on this forum for some time...not used to the reply/quote procedure. I don’t think his lens even has the DOF band. I never used the M-3.

I dumped my Canon 5D and 1DIII and many L lenses a few years ago for Oly MFT OM1 and then added the Pen F, which is the closest thing to the M4s I could find at a reasonable cost. The Fuji X1 Pro was just coming out, but their lens roadmap was going to take years. I duplicated my Canon glass in 18 months, 1/3rd the weight and cost.

wrangler5 Loc: Missouri

Ah, understand. Leica rangefinder lenses do have DOF markings, but the M3 rangefinder spot also had the unique notches that let you gauge DOF (in a limited way) without looking at the lens. I never had a genuine spot meter, although I was always intrigued by them after reading Adams' The Negative. I did try the pseudo-spot attachment for a Gossen Luna Pro, but never thought it did much better than the normal metering modes for the kind of pictures I took. I tended to use the cameras' TTL meters, from the Nikon F on, as they only got better with time.

Like you, I've abandoned my Nikon DSLR cameras and lenses for MFT - Olympus OMD EM1 and Pen F, and a Lumix GX85. Went to visit #1 grandson last month with EM1 and Pen F, 6 lenses and a flash, in a bag that would probably hold the Nikon D600, 1 zoom lens and (maybe) an SB700 speedlight. I really ought to sell the Nikon stuff before it becomes totally worthless on the market.

BebuLamar

Wish you were joking. I said if I were you which mean if I were the OP that is what I would do.

joesesto Loc: Nipomo, CA (Central Coast, CA)

[quote=wrangler5] I never had a genuine spot meter, although I was always intrigued by them after reading Adams' The Negative.]

We might be brothers from another mother...I have the entire series (gathering dust somewhere) as well as Weston’s Day Books, HCB, Gene Smith and others.

[Like you, I've abandoned my Nikon DSLR cameras and lenses for MFT - Olympus OMD EM1 and Pen F, and a Lumix GX85. Went to visit #1 grandson last month with EM1 and Pen F, 6 lenses and a flash, in a bag that would probably hold the Nikon D600, 1 zoom lens and (maybe) an SB700 speedlight. I really ought to sell the Nikon stuff before it becomes totally worthless on the market.[/quote]

My experience was the Canon bodies were worthless, I kept them, but the lenses paid for much of the Oly kit. I really like the Pen F grip and the small f/1.7 primes, 17, 25, 45 and 60 macro, but the Pro zooms make the combo too nose heavy and obvious. Those balance better on the OM1 with its battery grip. And I like its tilt screen much better than the Pen F’s fully articulated one...I just flip it backwards for almost everything...too easy to accidentally change settings, focus point, etc., anyway

FloydF2

The depth of field for an f2.0 Summicron set at infinity and at f 16 is 15 ft to infinity according to the depth of field scale. So anything closer may be a bit fuzzy.

BebuLamar

That's what I am afraid of. I don't know about the OP but most of my subjects are closer to 15ft.

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

My apologies. I read too quickly and didn’t take in the whole conversation.

Dennis

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

I have a copy of this lens (Nr 820614). It’s single-coated, so you want to be sure to use a hood when shooting into the light, or at least shade it with your hand, hat, etc. Unlike with a multi-coated lens, an ultraviolet filter can be effective when UV is present.