downing Loc: Cincinnati

I Want to try a ring-light flash. My 6x8 inch diffuser on an SB-900 creates too much direct reflection and results in hot spots in the image.

Used primarily for Macro.

I am using a Nikon D500

I am looking at the Sigma EM-140 DG.

Any comments by users appreciated.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Keep in mind, the ringlight was initially made for shooting intra-oral photos (inside the mouth).
Used on the lens, you get a very flat light showing little depth.
You'll most likely get better results with off-camera flash(es) and a softbox.
Post an example of what you're getting so we can better help you solve the issue you are having.

timm27 Loc: Earth

When needing flash for macro, been using the Sigma EM-140 DG for about 14 years now. Highly recommend.

downing Loc: Cincinnati

Thanks for the info.

I mostly shoot live specimens in the field and cannot use a Stationary flash set-up for that.

For stationary specimens I use a ring flash made for microscopes with a DYI adapter and shoot using a Tripod.

Check out my Flickr page for photos.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Thanks for the clarification.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

I use this Ring-Light and have no problems with it, either in TTL, or manual. Used on 150mm and 105 mm macro lenses. Used in manual setting , more control over the power output to compare /contrast / blend with the ambient light.

Don, the 2nd son Loc: Crowded Florida

I have used my ring light but don't like the "donut" reflections on shiny insect bodies and eyes.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

The Sigma does not have an annular (Complete 360° )reflector, but two bar reflectors which can be rotated to any position around the lens. The light output can be individually controlled on each light-head.

Jerrin1 Loc: Wolverhampton, England

Before you commit to a ringlight/ringflash (there is a difference), take a look at these two options, I have both: Aputure al-m9 Amaran LED light (credit card size, internal rechargable battery, fits on camera hotshoe). MEIKE MK-320 Mini TTL Speedlite Automatic Flash, head rotates and moves vertically for bounce flash, comes with a diffuser. I use both on a Sony A7III with a 90mm macro and 100 - 400mm for macro/close focus shots.

Brucej67 Loc: Cary, NC

I use the Meike which is a lot cheaper ( https://www.amazon.com/MEIKE-MK-14EXT-N-Speedlite-Mirrorless-Camera/dp/B06XQFYNGB/ref=pd_sbs_421_43?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XQFYNGB&pd_rd_r=a06d6d2e-88ee-11e8-b99a-5517ba108a65&pd_rd_w=lz2rG&pd_rd_wg=UaqCl&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=5825442648805390339&pf_rd_r=5VVJJPF0TGSVCPM40DRA&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=5VVJJPF0TGSVCPM40DRA ) and also the Nikon RC-1 and controller which is far more expensive. The Meike does a great job same guide number two flash tubes which can be controlled separately, TTL and cost only $88.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

I used to have the Sigma 140 DG quite a few years ago, it was a good flash unit. The build quality was really good too!

mmcgavin

The reflections you mention are 'specular highlights". They can be a real problem in photographing organs or tissues. However they do obey the laws of reflection- the angle of incidence= the angle of refection and thus moving the lamp or specimen can reduce or move them.
Also, the size of the specular highlight is directly proportional to the size of the light source e.g. the reflector.
Therefore we keep the diameter of the light relatively small and use a lamp with a 4-6 inch reflector as opposed to those old bowl shaped reflector which were up to 10-12" diameter.
Also although we usually use 2 lights- a main and a fill, we turn of one to see if one of them is responsible .

If all this fails the next step is polarized light but the filter on the camera (analyser) is turned slowly and the image watched to see until there are still a few specular highlights present as these are necessary to reveal any modeling on the surface.

Then there is something like a tent and no small specular highlights are seen but it should be remembered that now the tent is the light source so a small amount of light is smeared over the whole surface of the subject. Theoretically this reduces contrast but that may be small and getting rid of the specular highlights may be worth it. A diffuser does the same thing.

Also controlling the wetness of the surface is helpful for non-polarized light.
Some cheaper polarizing filters have a color cast.