grahamfourth

My question is how to prioritize adjusting shutter speed, aperture size, and ISO setting. I like to photograph wildlife but I live in an area where cloud cover often limits the light I have to work with. From my understanding a large aperture will enable a faster shutter speed at the expense of depth of field, and high ISO settings will enable smaller apertures for better depth of field but can introduce higher noise levels due to the increased gain required on the signal from the CCD. So I am wondering if there are some tried and true maxims that experienced photographers use to prioritize which they adjust first. For example (these are completely made up) "Your eye is better at determining focus than your hand is able to hold the camera still, so reduce your shutter speed first" or "Always increase the ISO first". If any such rules exist or if people have advice on prioritizing settings I would appreciate it. Thank you in advance for your responses.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Higher ISOs have a negative impact on the dynamic range capabilities of the camera and the digital noise. Most lenses will benefit from stepping down from the maximum aperture to achieve a noticeable improvement in sharpness. There's no "always" answer or approach given the variables of the composition, the equipment being used and the skill of the photographer. I suggest you reconsider the sources of your information, particularly those making ISO-first recommendations as a Best Practice.

I prefer to keep the ISO at "base", being ISO-100 for my digital bodies. But, I don't compromise my composition simply to maintain a base ISO. Rather, I determine the aperture (depth of field) for my composition and the shutterspeed, fast enough to freeze motion and / or hold the camera steady for the lens focal length (with IS-considered, if available). The final adjustment / consideration is the ISO that I push above ISO-100 only as far as necessary. Although, moving as high as ISO-5000 on my bodies is perfectly acceptable, when the conditions require, for my aperture and SS decisions in low-light.

Take the situation of shooting large flying birds or planes at an airshow. Here the drivers for my exposure settings would be the depth of field first: what do I need to capture a sharp image wing-tip to wing-tip for the distance and focal length I'm using? Next, what shutterspeed do I need for capture frozen / near frozen images? What ISO do I need for the aperture and SS for a well-exposed image that pushes the histogram to the right? There usually is some margin for adjustment in aperture or SS if I don't like the ISO needed, but usually not much. When the airshow performers change from jet to prop, I quickly adjust my shutterspeed to something slower and make the corresponding ISO change where I set the ISO manually, but auto-ISO could do it faster.

SusanFromVermont Loc: Southwest corner of Vermont

As you might realize, the answer is "It depends!" For instance, if your subject is not moving you can use a slower shutter speed with a smaller aperture and low ISO. But if the subject is moving then shutter speed becomes more important to prevent a blurry image. You also need to know your camera's low-light capabilities - that is, how high can you raise ISO before noise becomes significant. Prioritizing settings requires knowing how those settings will perform under each situation.

It might help if we knew what camera you are using, what lens, and whether you use a tripod. Also something about your experience level. But the basic concepts apply regardless.

Here are some questions for you:

How well do you understand the exposure triangle [shutter speed, aperture, ISO]? A change to one component affects the others, making it necessary to make a judgement as to which adjustments will work best in each situation. [This is more relevant when shooting manual.]
Have you experimented with the automatic settings [other than straight Automatic] of your camera? Each one has its own capabilities and will make decisions for you. [Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Program]
Have you read your camera manual more than once? Lots of information in there about how the camera works can help. Of course many are written as though they were translated from a foreign language[!] making it harder to understand, but it is still valuable. Luckily manuals are getting better.

jeweler53

I don't know of any "golden rule". You don't mention what camera you are using. It is my understanding that crop frame sensors are more susceptible to noise than full frame. Someone else may correct me on that. It really is where the "art" of photography comes into play. If you have a scene where depth of field is more important than motion blur you might try aperture priority. Set the aperture you want, to achieve the effect you want and let the camera make the other settings. The same thing applies to motion blur. If that is going to be an issue, use shutter priority for the same reason. Shoot lots of pictures. Choose the best and those settings in similar situation in the future. Today, there is no cost in making a "bad" shot. Simply change the settings to correct the problem and shoot again.

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

One thing that is worth doing is ISO tests with your camera. Then you can make an educated decision on how high you can go and keep the noise at a level you can accept. The same goes for testing hand held shutter speeds. You can practice hand holding techniques and know how low you can go with that and not have camera motion.

BebuLamar

At base ISO (which is 100 for my camera) I would determine the DOF I need and set the aperture. Checking the shutter speed and see if it's sufficient to prevent motion blur (in case I don't want motion blur as sometimes you do want motion blur). This speed is dependent on the lens focal length, the motion of the subjects and also if the lens has VR or if the tripod can be used. For example if I am taking picture of a status and I use a tripod then the whatever shutter speed it doesn't matter. If the shutter speed is too slow I would then decide if I can live with less DOF or I would raise the ISO.
In other case where I do want motion blur like waterfall pictures and the camera is on tripod then I would decide at the shutter speed I want then set the aperture. I generally don't mind if the the aperture is too small and I ended up with a lot of DOF and some loss in sharpness due to diffraction. But even so at times I still need ND filter.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

From one of your earlier posts I read that you have "Nikon D3200, primarily with a Nikon 70-300 telephoto lens."

This is important to know because different camera construction, sensor sizes, lenses and distance to subject all contribute to how much depth of field a given aperture will enable. Here's a chart to play with:

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Does your camera have an auto-ISO option in manual mode? For wildlife you may be talking about a one-time opportunity and if me, the ISO value would be the least of my concerns Check out successful pro photographer and UHH user Steve Perry's take on auto ISO for wildlife:

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-517754-2.html#8771285

You can do tests of non-moving subjects to get an idea of what aperture will work best for your wildlife shots, and then it's just a matter of setting a shutter speed for the particular animal or bird you're attempting to shoot.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

Aperture is really easy as it solely depends on how much DOF you want to portray, ISO is similar, how much noise are you're willing to accept (you know your sensor, and it often is a compromise you'll have to make for a fast enough shutter speed. All of that depends on the situation at hand, no two days are exactly the same, if you know your camera, you know how far you can go with each! Those are the "true maxims"!

rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin

There is no order of priority for inputing settings. Change focus, shutter speed, aperture, ISO, exposure compensation, etc., in whatever order you like (preferably before clicking the shutter).

MikeT9

I agree with Linda, when it comes to photographing wildlife and birds inflight most people would find it difficult to carry out exposure adjustments in the timeframe available. That’s where auto ISO comes in and is very useful. As far as using the base 100 ISO most modern cameras are quite happy at 400 ISO if not higher depending on the camera. When shooting birds in flight I find f/4 to f5.6 perfectly acceptable to minimise ISO although the aperture will depend on the distance from your subject. I shoot in manual and my priority is the shutter speed and I use exposure compensation to adjust for a darker bird in a brighter sky.
There is no golden rule and you don’t have to ‘reinvent the wheel’ to get the right settings. You do though, have to understand the three components of the exposure triangle and the limitation in terms of performance and setting of your own camera.

wmurnahan Loc: Bloomington IN

How I prioritize is this, is what I'm shooting requiring a great depth of field, like a landscape, then I set aperture, then I set shutter speed to the minimum speed I can get by with out having blur or camera shake, then I set ISO to what is needed to achieve the aperture and shutter speed I have set. If it is an action shot where depth of field is not important but stopping movement is priority then I set shutter speed to what I need and aperture to the the widest I can go, then set ISO to achieve what I've set. I don't worry as much about noise other than I do try to go with the lowest ISO I can, getting the picture is more important.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

I generally shoot in Aperture mode. There are many more choices for aperture than there are for shutter. I try to keep ISO at 100.

wmurnahan Loc: Bloomington IN

Really? I have more shutter speeds than apertures on my cameras.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Ayuh...bridge cameras are in that category. Another reason it's important to know an OP's gear prior to making specific suggestions.

johnst1001a Loc: West Chester, Ohio

Know your camera, know what you are willing to give up in a picture, and get the best glass possible such as a f2.8 vs f4. Or an f1.4. Also know how to use post processing.
I hate noise, so I never go above ISO 800. Software can correct noise up to that level. But it is at the peril of sharpness, so if I can go lower I will.
I have difficulty holding a camera still, bad wrists plus just getting older. That pushes me to lower shutter speeds but I then have to shoot with my aperture opened more, but I am willing to give up on some depth of field.
Anyway, it is all trade offs, practice, practice, practice.