whwiden

My understanding is that AdobeRBG has a wider color spectrum than sRBG. I would be grateful to know whether using AdobeRGB reduces sharpening halo due to the wider color spectrum. I am well versed in the advantages of RAW but I am on a mission to figure out best practices for jpeg capture--it has become a bit of a project for me.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Do a search here for "RGB".
Here's one for starters: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-129064-1.html
One of them may have your answer.
I prefer sRGB.

CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver

No. If your sharpening is getting halos, you most likely are over-sharpening and a change in color space won't help. If you look at the graph of the colors in sRGB and AdobeRGB 1998, you will see that Adobe gets you some very saturated colors in the greens and some purples/cyans.

Only some of the high-priced monitors can even display those colors and even fewer printers can print them.

As a side note, many uninformed folks will tell you sRGB is only good for the web. They are wrong. Most commercial/professional print labs require sRGB and the output is gorgeous.

rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

Exactly.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

If you have the camera set to sharpen a lot, then sharpening in post processing is definitely going to give you the halos. As you know, having no sharpening applied in camera gives you 1000% more control over things like halos, not sharpening skies, etc.

The broader gamut of Adobe RGB just adds a few more colors - it does not address halos.

whwiden

Thank you to all the responders! I have been using sRBG and was wondering if this would be a reason to change. It seems not--indeed, as my project to create best practices for jpeg is all about simplicity, sticking with sRBG makes the most sense.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

Let me put things into perspective, if you see halos during sharpening the common explantion for that is oversharpening. It could be oversharpening in the firmware of the camera or during editing.
I do not have the experience to tell you how good Lab Color sharpening will be with a JPEG file but it surely eliminates banding on the sky, artifacts, shifts in color and halos within reasonable sharpening.
I do not want to discuss Lab Color sharpening here but there should be plenty of information on line.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Adobe RGB requires high end monitors and printers, or high end offset pre-press prep procedures to reap the full benefits of the wider color gamut.

If you use Adobe RGB at the camera, your JPEGs MUST be converted to sRGB for use on the Internet or with MOST conventional (silver halide-based, wet process) photo labs.

Displaying a JPEG recorded in Adobe RGB on a standard sRGB monitor yields a flat, lifeless mess. Printing it can do the same, UNLESS your software does the conversion on the fly.

If you use Lightroom or Photoshop, this process can be automated with Color Settings.

As for sharpening, there is no advantage.

A better path is raw to ProPhoto RGB to the final use profile. Printing from Lightroom preserves the most color and bit depth your printer can deliver, which is why MOMA, other museums, and top portrait and commercial photographers use that path. Starting with JPEGs reduces both bit-depth (from 14 or 12 to 8), and constricts the color gamut from raw to Adobe RGB or sRGB.

whwiden

Thank you. I use the U1 and U2 settings on my Nikon cameras. One I have set for RAW, the other for jpeg. I pick a setting based on what I think I will do with the picture. Jpeg is more for snapshots and routine travel shots. RAW for lanscape or serious portrait shots. I do not want to spend the post/computer time or file space on most shots--which is why I am looking closely at my jpeg settings. However, I will on occasion tweak the lighting on a jpeg. I do not as a rule add sharpening to a jpeg in post. Rather, I set that in camera.

whwiden

Thank you. I find some halo effect in jpeg even when not aggressive--like a 4 or 5 in Nikon speak. But, it is noticeable only on close inspection.

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

Burkphoto offers a wealth of knowledge to the UHH Community with his experience in graphics and processing. I personally listen very closely to his advice. A technique that I will share with you to help sharpen images that need a bit of help is to use a "high pass filter".

To do this in Photoshop, make a duplicate layer of your image. Select the duplicate layer. Go to Image, Adjustments, Hue and Saturation. Slide the Saturation Slider all the way to the left. The image will appear to be black and white now. Go to Filter, Go to Other, Go to High Pass. The image will now turn a metallic gray and a bit strange (don't worry). Slide the adjustment for the radius until you can see what appears to be a ghosted outline of the image (be sure that preview is checked) and click okay.

Now....the layer mode will be set to 'normal' as a default. Click on it and open the layer mode pull-down menu and select "hard light".

You will now notice that you have a sharper image than you originally started with and it was done in a 'non-destructive' manner so it can easily be amended or undone by deleting the duplicate image layer.

Hope this helps sharpen your images.

whwiden

Thank you very much! I will try that procedure.

ptaylor680

I tried the process described above to sharpen an image in Photoshop and it worked great without getting the annoying halos for over sharpening
. Thanks so much. Great help