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Underexposing to Increase Saturation
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May 23, 2018 18:44:31   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
johntaylor333 wrote:
ISO invariance is a very complicated issue and I recommend an excellent article - https://photographylife.com/iso-invariance-explained.

... The noise when you edit in Lr, Ps or ACR is lower, for an ISO invariant camera, that it would have been for the "correct", higher, ISO.


With respect, no. The BEST case is that the noise is no worse than the “correct exposure”, but it is never lower. Remember that you are using only a limited amount of the DR of the A/D, and that lower value is then multiplied by a constant in post. While the MSB is the same, all those values in between the limited (by the underexposure) data points are interpolated which is apparent if you look at the histogram of the grey scale of the underexposed (and multiplied in post) exposure. Very similar to editing a 14 bit image file with an 8 bit editor. You cannot “create” 14 or 16 bit data from 8 bit data by multiplying an 8 bit value by a constant.

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May 23, 2018 19:59:14   #
Dennis833 Loc: Australia
 
Yes...Shoot RAW and darken later in post is a much better practice.

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May 23, 2018 20:09:11   #
via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP
 
donmikes wrote:
Recently, another member posted a very good photo and attributed the results partly to the nice saturation he had achieved by slightly underexposing the image. He mentioned that he had learned this technique during his Kodachrome film days.

I also used this technique when I used to shoot film and initially did the same in my early days of shooting digital. I never do so anymore and have come to believe, however, that this is not necessary and perhaps counterproductive. In post-processing, it is easy to change exposure and there are many other possibilities to change saturation – not only the saturation and vibrance sliders, but also a combination of adjustments to highlights, shadows, white point, black point, contrast, clarity etc. Also, underexposing narrows the dynamic range that could be achieved by correctly exposing or overexposing (expose to the right).

Am I correct?
Recently, another member posted a very good photo ... (show quote)


YES, you are correct. You will get brighter colors by shooting to the right of the histogram because you are capturing more color tones. You can then bring down the tones as you desire in post.

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May 23, 2018 20:10:33   #
dsturr
 
TheDman wrote:
He's fantastic, isn't he? Bet you're the only person who clicked through and watched it.

Bet he's not. Thanks for the link.

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May 24, 2018 19:38:17   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
donmikes wrote:
Recently, another member posted a very good photo and attributed the results partly to the nice saturation he had achieved by slightly underexposing the image. He mentioned that he had learned this technique during his Kodachrome film days.

I also used this technique when I used to shoot film and initially did the same in my early days of shooting digital. I never do so anymore and have come to believe, however, that this is not necessary and perhaps counterproductive. In post-processing, it is easy to change exposure and there are many other possibilities to change saturation – not only the saturation and vibrance sliders, but also a combination of adjustments to highlights, shadows, white point, black point, contrast, clarity etc. Also, underexposing narrows the dynamic range that could be achieved by correctly exposing or overexposing (expose to the right).

Am I correct?
Recently, another member posted a very good photo ... (show quote)


The only time I find myself needing to back off the exposure a bit is when I am shooting flowers that have highly saturated colors. One quick look at the channel histogram on the back of the camera will tell you if you have any clipped channels. Reducing exposure to avoid that clipping is usually better than shooting for a perfect exposure.

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