Tinker wrote:
My wife has the Pro-100, I have Pro 9000 Mk II. She has had a problem with images being in either an incorrect color and/or just too dark. I can make the screen image overly bright but that just makes the printing result just a crapshoot. The latest issue is a print of a bright yellow flower that printed in a flat orange color. I printed the same image on the 9000 Mk II and the result was a correct image. We have recalibrated, worked on white balance, tried all sorts of combinations in both LR and PS. Same result. Neither of us is a computer whiz so we are pretty stumped. Could it be an update missed? Any help would be appreciated. Should it be important, we use a D90, P900 and a D5100. Bill
My wife has the Pro-100, I have Pro 9000 Mk II. S... (
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It's not the printer, computer or software at fault... I'd wager it's your computer monitor. That needs to be calibrated with a device such as a Spyder or X-Rite.
The #1 reason for "too dark" prints is a TOO BRIGHT monitor. Out of the box and at their default settings, the majority of monitors are WAY too bright for photo editing, causing you to mis-adjust your images too dark when printed. A calibration device helps you set a correct brightness level and maintain it accurately over time. It also will help fine tune your monitor's color rendition to be more accurate. Both monitor brightness and color rendition change over time, too.... so recalibration is needed every so often (I do it once a month... some folks do it more or less often). If you do much printing, a calibration device will essentially pay for itself in savings of wasted paper and the cost of re-printing. Without a calibration device, you are just guessing at monitor settings.
The device will create and apply a custom profile specifically for your monitor in its current condition. Then each time you re-calibrate it will provide a new one. You'll see these change over time.... especially brightness... as the monitor ages. For example, around 7 years ago when I first got it, I had to dial my monitor down to 20% brightness to get a correct level for photo editing. Now after a number of years of hard use, my Spyder is having me set it to about 50% to have the same level of brightness. It's changed that much over time. (Color rendition changes too, but it's more subtle and difficult to track.)
I don't know why you are seeing different results with the two different printers. Maybe you just got luckier guessing at the settings for one, than the other. Or, in one case you are using your editing software to manage color during the printing, while in the other you are leaving it to the printer to control it, which is usually less accurate.
When ahving the editing software manage the color, you also need to use a "correct" printer profile. Especially in Photoshop there are "soft proof" options that you can use to emulate various printer/ink/paper combinations. If you use Canon papers and inks in the Pro-100, there are profiles already installed which you can use. It's not perfect, since no monitor has the same dynamic range as a print on paper can have.... Plus a monitor is back-lit, while a print is reflective. But soft-proofing is pretty good and the best we've got... and you can get accustomed to, learn to anticipate and take into account the more minor differences between a calibrated monitor and how an image will look on paper. It is important to use the correct printer/ink/paper profile when soft-proofing. There are custom profiles available for non-OEM combinations of paper & ink, too. Or, a calibration device might have ability for you to create your own custom paper & ink profiles.
If letting the printer control the process, be sure to select the correct paper type and quality settings. If not using the OEM combination, you may need to do some experimentation. For example, a cheap Kodak medium gloss paper that I use for thumbnail catalogs and small proofs seems to print best with a generic matte paper setting (which also saves a lot of ink).
Hope this helps!