Photocraig

Hi Leo,
The camera you have is a very good one. I have seen remarkable publishable results from that model. I confirm all of the comments here. Make it your goal to make the very best photograph the SL1 can make. Your lens collection is basic but of good quality. For 80-90% of the conditions, they will serve you well. Each combination of Body and Lens will have a sweet spot. That is aperture, shutter speed and ISO combination that will make a quality reasonably sized print (Whatever the next size or two above the European A size) about as well as any other equipment in ideal conditions. When your skills and understanding reach the point that you can't produce the results you want because something your equipment can't do, then it is time to change.

For example, you have a 135mm zoom. Using that longer focal length, with the maximum aperture (5.6?) you should get enough background blur to separate your subject from the background. Perfect that technique and move on to your next project. For the spectacular landscapes and seascapes your beautiful country has to offer, you have plenty of camera and lenses to get great results. There are many ways to photograph different subject types and to produce different effects. Study those and make the best photos you can. With the skills learned doing this you will know what to do next.
C

This is a hobby and an endless pursuit of beauty and enjoyment. Do not let others tell you how to spend your money. Use their support to learn more. Read, and You Tube is an excellent resource. And, when of your photo buddies says you need something else, ask him or her to prove it. Shoot the subject side by side. Ask to borrow that 50mm 1.8 lens and see the results on your SL1 before you spend the money. By the way it's the least expensive lens you can buy. But use theirs for a few shots and see if YOU can SEE the difference and decide if it worth the $100 or so, to YOU. Same is true for the rest of it. Put your card into the "better" body and shoot what you just shot on the SL1. Then decide just HOW much better that "better" body really is for your purposes.

It isn't the camera, it's the photographer. Just like it isn't the glass it's the Ouzo.

C

bkyser Loc: Fly over country in Indiana

Hey Leo,
Just look at it this way. If we all used the exact same lenses, and same camera bodies (and same settings, and same techniques) we'd just end up with a bunch of photos that all look the same, and boy, wouldn't that be a boring world. You having something different, means that you will see the world a little differently through the lens, and will capture your images in a beautiful and unique way.

repleo Loc: Boston

For Astro / night sky shots you should investigate Rokinon. They seem to take the prize for low cost, fast, wide lenses. I have the Rokinon 12mm F2.0 for my aps-c Sony A6000 and it works great. It also comes in a Canon mount.

See a used one here : https://www.adorama.com/us%20%20%20%20949282.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqZ_CnLWw2gIVC1YNCh2aOw_0EAYYCCABEgJMzfD_BwE

DanielB Loc: San Diego, Ca

Learn with what you have before you make a huge investment on upgraded equipment. As you get better and more proficient at photography you automatically start to realize what you need to take your craft further. Remember that your working in digital so your computer and software play a big part in that learning process.

mizzee Loc: Boston,Ma

Don't worry, be happy with what you have and shoot, shoot, shoot! You'll know when it's time for a change.

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

For night sky shots you can use any of your lenses with a tripod and a time exposure. There is a formula to get, or to avoid, star trails. Since you have a crop sensor camera multiply your focal length by 1.5 to get a full frame equivalent focal length. Divide that number into 500, and that is the number of seconds at which you start seeing star trails in your image. Use iso 100 and the widest aperture on your lens, and a tripod with the 10 second timer on the camera to take the picture hands free and avoid shaking the tripod or camera. For example, if you are using your 18mm lens at 18mm, 500/(18*1.5)= 500/27= 18 seconds. A time exposure will start to get star trails at 18 seconds. A time exposure will also detect many hundreds or even thousands of stars that the eye doesn't see.

For moon shots use your 250 mm lens at iso 100 at the widest aperture. Use your live view to see the moon. At first it may look like a bright blob of light. Increase your shutter speed until you see dark contrasts on the moon's surface, then focus and take the shot. In CS5, crop the shot, then adjust the shadows/highlights sliders to bring out all the features on the moon.

Regarding CS5, I have CS6 which is very similar. Most of my post processing is just cropping and using the auto tone, auto contrast, and sometimes auto color (one at a time so I can undo any one that doesn't look good) under the image tab, then moving the sliders on brightness/contrast and the sliders in shadows/highlights, both under image tab under adjustments. When you are done, save the image with a new name so you keep the original untouched. You should be able to figure this out in a couple of hours of practice. These make the greatest changes to your picture and usually just take a few minutes.

As a beginner you may look to better equipment as being a way to get better pictures. But while decent equipment is needed (you have that) better equipment will have a minimal effect. It's like playing music. A $500 guitar is a decent guitar. Buying a $5,000 guitar won't make you sound any better.

stan0301 Loc: Colorado

You might like to know that 10 seconds at f4 asa 2000 is a good place to start when photographing stars

Don, the 2nd son Loc: Crowded Florida

ToBoldlyGo Loc: London U.K.

You'll also have plenty of people here say you need to invest in Lightroom. Ignore them. Yes you can download a free trial, but even if you had the budget for it, there are lots of other ways to manage and edit your photos. Use the software you are comfortable with, and investigate other options if you decide it isn't doing what you like.

whwiden

The only lens I would consider adding is a 50mm prime for low light and depth of field. I do not know canon but gather your camera is aps-c. Perhaps a fast 35mm prime. That would be my first lens addition, but no rush.

cval52

I still have my Canon Rebel, and it still takes great photos. Will never get rid of it.

enygy Loc: LI, NY

Lots of great advice here...
Make sure you have a good tripod for Astrophotography.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Leo,

Even if you are not happy with the quality of the photos, figure out if it is the equipment or your technique that needs to be improved before you buy new equipment.

Keep in mind that you are getting advice to NOT PURCHASE from a large group of people who, for the most part, LOVE to buy new equipment. Most of us here suffer from and are constantly fighting GAS (Gear Acquisition Synonym.) If a group of gear addicts tell you not to buy, that should carry a lot of weight.

Instead, consider posting some pictures you think could be improved and ask for advice on how to improve them. Everyone (well most) here are more than willing to share knowledge on how to improve using the equipment you already have.

phlash46 Loc: Westchester County, New York

twillsol Loc: St. Louis, MO