Bridges
Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA
I have this lens and also would not trade it for the Nikon 105. Not that the Nikon is less sharp but the Tokina has a feature I really like -- the push/pull to activate the AF or release it. As others have said, the lens will "hunt" for focus because it is looking at a number of layers and because the nature of macro lenses have such a shallow depth of field it will reluctantly attach to one area. The way I use the lens is to let it do it's best to find focus, and because the area it chooses to be in focus might vary a little from what I wanted, it is easy to move the collar from AF to manual and tweak the shot. I know of two professional photographers who use this lens as their studio portrait lens. So don't give up on this lens, just learn to work with it!
joer wrote:
Then you will be disappointed with just about all macro lenses and this camera. Macro is code for manual focus.
Unless you have the Canon 100mm L macro, I do not have that problem with a 7D in AF.
Royce Moss wrote:
Thought I'd get a macro and decided on the Tokina 100mm to go with my 7100. Well I took it out for a spin and am really disappointed. The lens is sharp but it focus hunts like crazy even with the limit switch engaged. So annoying. I called Tokina customer service about the issue and the guy said "oh that's typical for that lens/body combo you just have to move around to find the sweet spot". Huh? I found that a very bizarre answer. Returning it today !!
I would suggest that if you are shooting at full macro the lens will have a hard time with auto-focus mostly caused by camera movement, if you are shooting objects at some distance and experiencing focus hunt then yes, it is the lens.
Architect1776 wrote:
Unless you have the Canon 100mm L macro, I do not have that problem with a 7D in AF.
It’s obvious to everyone else that the problem was
not the lens or camera.
[quote=Architect1776]Duh.[/quotegot a sample with EXIF attached? Seems like you are the only one claiming the AF works at life size when all others plus pros whose work is published say otherwise.
Regardless of what lens camera combo you have, you will have this problem. At true macro 1:1, the working distance to subject for macro using a 100mm lens is only 6 inches from subject{most Brands}.. That's true macro 1:1, not close ups. At this distance to subject just slightly shaking which most of us do, a slight breeze, any movement from the subject, the focusing on the lens will rack back and forth trying to keep focus if in Auto Focus. Now if your in the studio, and the subject is static and you are rock solid while holding the camera, then focusing would not be a problem, but lets assume for a moment we are out in the field shooting macro in the real world.. Tis the reason to use manual focusing when Shooting True Macro.......
martinfisherphoto wrote:
Regardless of what lens camera combo you have, you will have this problem. At true macro 1:1, the working distance to subject for macro using a 100mm lens is only 6 inches from subject{most Brands}.. That's true macro 1:1, not close ups. At this distance to subject just slightly shaking which most of us do, a slight breeze, any movement from the subject, the focusing on the lens will rack back and forth trying to keep focus if in Auto Focus. Now if your in the studio, and the subject is static and you are rock solid while holding the camera, then focusing would not be a problem, but lets assume for a moment we are out in the field shooting macro in the real world.. Tis the reason to use manual focusing when Shooting True Macro.......
Regardless of what lens camera combo you have, you... (
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I believe that the OP searching is not at the 1:1 setting. I would bet a majority of flower and other shots taken here with a macro lens is not 1:1 but a lesser magnification.
BTW for true macro I use the 100mm f4.0 FLM on a bellows.
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