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Exposure COmpensation
Mar 22, 2018 10:58:45 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
peterg wrote:
Regardless of the priority mode (e.g. shutter, aperture, etc.), changing exposure compensation uses the same finger actions. The camera changes the setting(s) that you did NOT fix. It's a no-brainer! Shooting BIFs requires plenty of headwork. Don't waste it on thinking about which knob to twiddle.
Regardless of the priority mode (e.g. shutter, aperture, etc.), changing exposure compensation uses the same finger actions. The camera changes the setting(s) that you did NOT fix. It's a no-brainer! Shooting BIFs requires plenty of headwork. Don't waste it on thinking about which knob to twiddle.You do it your way, and I will do it mine. My system results in Award Winning Shots. I am not sure what your system nets you
Mar 22, 2018 11:35:55 #
peterg
Loc: Santa Rosa, CA
billnikon wrote:
Interesting response, considering that I agreed with your post. I merely added an additional advantage to using exposure compensation.You do it your way, and I will do it mine. My system results in Award Winning Shots. I am not sure what your system nets you
Mar 22, 2018 13:30:44 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
peterg wrote:
Interesting response, considering that I agreed with your post. I merely added an additional advantage to using exposure compensation.
My bad. Sorry.
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Mar 22, 2018 20:44:48 #
The following pertains to shooting full manual for ISO, shutter and aperture, as I normally do. Once you get the hang of what over and under exposure look like in the viewfinder (on the exposure scale) you don't need to use exposure compensation at all. For most of us using exposure compensation requires taking your eye off the viewfinder and looking at the top of the camera, increasing the chance of missing a shot. Similarly, once you get the hang of using the histogram (which doesn't require taking your eye off the viewfinder) you learn to compensate with either shutter speed or aperture. I recognize that this way of shooting requires being very comfortable with the principles and rapid application of exposure principles, which you have been already advised to master. Personally I rarely use exposure compensation, shutter priority or aperture priority at all ,except when shooting auto ISO in rapidly varying light conditions. And I consistently get great birds in flight shots.
Furthermore, with Nikon sensors, a bit of underexposure (even by a stop or more) is rarely detrimental after post processing, esp[ecially when shooting RAW. In other words, getting the exposure exactly right is not as important as some people think, so long as the highlights are not blown out. Until you are more confident about all this, I would deliberately underexpose by setting the shutter speed some higher than you think you need.
Furthermore, with Nikon sensors, a bit of underexposure (even by a stop or more) is rarely detrimental after post processing, esp[ecially when shooting RAW. In other words, getting the exposure exactly right is not as important as some people think, so long as the highlights are not blown out. Until you are more confident about all this, I would deliberately underexpose by setting the shutter speed some higher than you think you need.
Mar 23, 2018 08:19:15 #
boberic wrote:
I shoot a lot of snow scenes. In order to avoid blue or grey snow, I bracket. often +1 or 2 and or -1 or-2. Depending upon where I spot meter within the scene
Blue snow happens in open shade on sunny days, when the area is mostly lit by blue sky. Local adjustment with a mask is one way to deal with that. You can either change the white balance or desaturate the area until the blue goes away. This cannot easily be fixed with just exposure choices.
Gray snow is a less than optimum exposure choice. If you have snow in sunlight you don't need to bracket - you just need to point the spot meter at the brightest area where you want to keep detail, then add 1 stop (with most cameras) to the reading - I do this all the time and never find a need to bracket. If you have a Fuji, it is sometimes possible to increase the exposure up to 2 stops.
Mar 23, 2018 15:06:22 #
Bill_de wrote:
I mostly shoot birds. The simplest thing to keep i... (show quote)
Wonderful Shots Bill...Could I ask you what you shot with, obviously if I know that, I could venture a guess how far away you were. Tripod no doubt ???
Beautiful.
Mar 23, 2018 15:58:17 #
To the OP. I'm not a "manual snob" by any means. I believe people should use whatever tools they want to get the job done. Your question is an exact example of why I find manual EASIER. As the background changes, like trees vs. sky, your meter will be fooled, and you need to adjust for the total scene. With manual and a flash meter, I set the exposure, and just leave it there until I move to a new position.
When it comes to exposure compensation, for some reason, the easiest thing for me to remember is "do the opposite of what I think" If the scene is dark, dial in negative, if it is super bright, dial in positive. It's because your camera tries to average it out to 18% gray. If the scene is dark, (like the proverbial black dog in a coal field) your camera brightens things up waaaay too far, so black looks like a medium gray. That being said, in my little pea brain, if it's dark, I "feel like" I should have to brighten it by adding exposure compensation....ie... the opposite of how my brain works is correct.
A handheld incident meter with the dome, measures the total light in the scene, and tells me exactly what to set my camera for.
I hope either my backwards (do the opposite) method works, or you may want to try a cheap meter, maybe even try one of those cell phone meters, even though they don't have the dome.
When it comes to exposure compensation, for some reason, the easiest thing for me to remember is "do the opposite of what I think" If the scene is dark, dial in negative, if it is super bright, dial in positive. It's because your camera tries to average it out to 18% gray. If the scene is dark, (like the proverbial black dog in a coal field) your camera brightens things up waaaay too far, so black looks like a medium gray. That being said, in my little pea brain, if it's dark, I "feel like" I should have to brighten it by adding exposure compensation....ie... the opposite of how my brain works is correct.
A handheld incident meter with the dome, measures the total light in the scene, and tells me exactly what to set my camera for.
I hope either my backwards (do the opposite) method works, or you may want to try a cheap meter, maybe even try one of those cell phone meters, even though they don't have the dome.
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Mar 23, 2018 16:03:42 #
Ohlarry wrote:
I use a Nikon D7200 and one of the things that oft... (show quote)
Learn how to use your histogram along with exposure compensation. I use my histogram with adjusting my aperture in Manual mode...
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