B&W negatives to digital
Mar 19, 2018 11:10:09 #
srt101fan wrote:
Thanks Rudolf. I'll take a look at the longer lenses. Can I assume that they would work just as well as your 50mm but would have to be positioned farther from the negative?
Absolutely correct. I would close down the aperture to f11 with a longer lens.
Mar 19, 2018 11:17:03 #
Rudolf wrote:
Absolutely correct. I would close down the aperture to f11 with a longer lens.
Thank you; good, helpful info...
Mar 21, 2018 06:26:42 #
Rudolf wrote:
Photographing 43 years old B&W negatives with a macro lens, then on to Photoshop and NIK's Silver Efex Pro 2. Brazil's brick manufacturing and kiln. Olaria 1975.
Mar 21, 2018 07:07:06 #
https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=Kcs4uknw&id=AA1E5FAD1854738421CC150EA2920B3426D7FD78&thid=OIP.Kcs4uknwJPreezKcU2P38QHaGO&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fi0.wp.com%2fdigital-photography-school.com%2fwp-content%2fuploads%2f2008%2f08%2ffull-frame-crop-factor.jpg%3fresize%3d600%26ssl%3d1&exph=504&expw=600&q=cropped+sensors+vs+full+frame+sensors&simid=608043096433952972&selectedIndex=3&qpvt=cropped+sensors+vs+full+frame+sensors&ajaxhist=0
With a crop sensor camera, you will need to get an 'image enlargement' of greater that 1 to 1. For full frame copying with a full frame camera I use a 55 micro nikkor auto with a pk 13 extension tube. If my math is right you will need about a 37 mm tube to achieve that (the pk13 is about 27 mm if my memory serves me correctly). Add and ES-1, mount the negs as slides and you are all set.
With a crop sensor camera, you will need to get an 'image enlargement' of greater that 1 to 1. For full frame copying with a full frame camera I use a 55 micro nikkor auto with a pk 13 extension tube. If my math is right you will need about a 37 mm tube to achieve that (the pk13 is about 27 mm if my memory serves me correctly). Add and ES-1, mount the negs as slides and you are all set.
Mar 22, 2018 16:06:51 #
Funny you post this. I was about to throw out (yet another) enlarger that has too many issues (cracked bellows, rusty from sitting in a garage in Florida, etc.) but just last night, I thought about making a copy stand like I used back in the day at the color lab to take photos of photos where people had lost negatives. I figured I could set it up to do exactly what you are doing. I have years and years of negatives, that I'd like to digitize, but don't want to spend the big bucks, when I can just take the time and do it myself when I'm bored and the weather is bad.
What I'm wondering about is some of the color film, and how well it works using the same system? Anyone else tried it with color? (of course, I have several thousand black and white to make it through first)
Thanks for posting this subject, your timing was perfect.
What I'm wondering about is some of the color film, and how well it works using the same system? Anyone else tried it with color? (of course, I have several thousand black and white to make it through first)
Thanks for posting this subject, your timing was perfect.
Mar 22, 2018 20:10:52 #
bkyser wrote:
Funny you post this. I was about to throw out (y... (show quote)
You are welcome.
In slides, invert not needed other than tweaking in Photoshop. With slides, inverting is needed ( Photoshop: image>adjustment>invert [Ctrl+I]) let me know how things work out.
Mar 23, 2018 08:41:56 #
Rudolf wrote:
You are welcome.
In slides, invert not needed other than tweaking in Photoshop. With slides, inverting is needed ( Photoshop: image>adjustment>invert [Ctrl+I]) let me know how things work out.
In slides, invert not needed other than tweaking in Photoshop. With slides, inverting is needed ( Photoshop: image>adjustment>invert [Ctrl+I]) let me know how things work out.
yeah, I knew slides weren't an issue, but it may be a weekend project to do a few negatives just to see how the invert works, and what the colors will look like. I think being a raw shooter will help a lot in this case. Sometimes, with weddings, I do question why I do it, but......I do. (a little wedding "lingo")
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