foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC

he wants to sell it as new. LOL

repleo Loc: Boston

No - not as new, although they are nearly new since they are the lenses I haven't used much.

Thanks for the tips folks. I found that a blower, a lens brush, slightly dampened micro cloth and clean hands is all I needed.

StanMac Loc: Tennessee

Please tell us the nail polish remover is acetone free!!!!😱

Stan

lsimpkins Loc: SE Pennsylvania

Its usually acetone or oil based, neither one of which I would want anywhere near my lenses.

Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada

rjriggins11 Loc: Colorado Springs, CO

I use Armorall on most them. It gives everything a great look.

Sonyjim Loc: Southern VT

May sound strange, and I am surely opening myself for criticism, but I use a little orange oil wood polish on a rag. Paint likes oil. go easy and keep it off the glass. Try on an old lens first.

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

Rubber parts have a "shelf-life". When you attempt to restore it, it may look good initially but always seems to go bad a little quicker the next time. (IE: Look at tires when people use that quick tire spray cleaner.)

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

This is a very good question for me, not that I am the biggest “maven” of camera maintenance but I do have some kinda unique experience. My first “professional job” in photography was the studio janitor/gofer but part of my duties was looking after the camera cleaning chores- 12 4x5 press cameras, 24 flash units and 3 large format studio cameras. For a number of years I ran a side-business specializing in electronic flash repair and customization where I shared a building with a camera repair guy. Frequently we would run into each other's shops exclaiming something like “you would not believe what this photographer did to his camera/flash etc...”! Many serious damages were caused by using household and automotive cleaning and lubricating products and/or tools on cameras, lenses and flash equipment.

Problem is, that many of theses cleaning and cosmetic polishing products may contain ingredients that are corrosive to certain metals, plastics, polymers and fabrics. Some may contain propellants, solvents or other chemicals that can dissolve or break down glues, cements, gaskets, seals and other camera and lens components. Certain cleaners lubricants and polishes may leave behind excessive residues and some oils and lubricants tend to migrate or penetrate to places where they they can be harmful and simply gum up the works. Products like WD-40 should never be used on any camera parts- the “WD” stands for water displacement- great for rusty locks and hinges but that stuff will penetrate into everything and is not suitable for precision mechanisms! Some electronic contact cleaners harbor solvents that are too strong for precision contacts or lubricants that remain behind and cause the aforementioned issues.

Nail polish remover, any ketone based solvent, benzene, turpentine, paint thinners or removers, most petroleum distillates or household detergents should NEVER be used on a camera or lens. They should not even be used to clean camera cases or storage cabinets in that the can liberate harmful fumes or gases that can harm many plastics and adhesives.

I use ARMOR ALL on my dashboard and interior trim in my car but I won't put it on my steering wheel, gear-shift or other levers or the pedals because it leaves a residual film that makes the surfaces slippery and reduces traction a grip- I do no want that on my camera bodies or lenses. I also find that sometimes theses residues become sticky and retain dust and dirt.

I am not worried about cosmetics of my working cameras. I would rather have that looking a bit scruffy but clean, as long as the are operating properly and smoothly, than risking that problems that can be caused my many cosmetic treatments or an inadvertent or ill advised harmfully cleaning procedure. I have already detailed my “hands-off” approach to lens cleaning in the thread on that subject in this section. I seldom if ever use any fluids or liquids on lenses unless there is smudges or fingerprints and only use specialized lens cleaning fluids in very minute quantities with extremely soft and pure lens tissue.

If there is dirt, or build up of grime on the lens barrel or other external camera parts or trim, a slightly dampened cloth or gauze pad should be sufficient. A very small quantity of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol on a gauze pad should dissolve any stubborn deposits. This kind of alcohol has less water content and evaporates quickly so it won't run or remain on the surface. If there is dirt in the lens mount, a simple cotton swab or a gentle brush should be used to dislodge it. Gentle air blowing will help but high pressure air flow can blow particles further into lens's helical system. Same goes for the camera's lens mount and exposed innards. If any of theses “nooks and crannies” are really gungy, it is best to get the gear in for professional service. If you detect any resistance in focusing or sort crunchy sounds when zooming or operating any lens part, definitely bring or send it in in for repairs- do not attempt to clean or lubricate the internal camera or lenses mechanisms. NEVER attempt to clean a front surface mirror. I am even nervous about sensor cleaning!

For electronic contacts, just cleaning them with a soft lint free cloth should be sufficient. If they are very dirty, the only cleaner I recommend is a product called ELECTRA XL. It is formulated for precision electronic circuitry and leaves no residue and won't attack plastics, rubbers, most other materials or metals. Do not, however, spray this stuff on or apply it directly to you lens's or camera's contacts- just apply it sparingly and carefully with a soft cloth or gauze pad with gentle pressure. It evaporates quickly- then I just wipe the contacts gently to remove any traces of dirt that may have been dissolved.

There are other products, basically volatile solvents, like
carbon tetrachloride, that work efficiently but they are extremely toxic and should be avoided in household or office environments.

I have seen too many problems caused by silicone and similar lubricants like white grease when used on cameras and lenses. The are OK for enlarger mechanisms, sheet film magazines, tripod and light stand parts, but keep them off of cameras.

Many photographers and camera collectors have there own “lotions and potions” for camera cosmetic issues- floor wax, shoe polish and dyes, furniture polish, cooking oils and shortenings, nail polish, soap, candle wax and paints. Some of this stuff may end up looking good but will come off on you hands and clothing when using the equipment. That's OK of you are a collect and just display the gear. Much of it can just make matters worse and cause more harm than remedy.

Oh- y'all know about those newfangled super powered vacuum cleaners that are so powerful that they have been know to suck in house pets or parts thereof. Do not use them on your cameras or lenses. Yup, that happened and goes down in my annals of “you won't believe what this photographer did to his...”

Personally, I consider myself a pretty handy guy and have been known to take apart and clean and fix stuff like washing machines, lawn mowers and sewing machines and I do some minor car repairs. Cameras? Besides keeping them clean and tidy- they go to the repair guy for major cleaning!

In preparing a camera for sale an honest gentle cleaning is you best rout. Using "cosmetics" to conceal normal wear will likely come off and result in a very dissatisfied buyer. Folks expect some accurate indications of usage and will and should pay accordingly.

John_F Loc: Minneapolis, MN

To get at the grooves and ridges, how about a very soft tooth brush, very lightly moistened.

Polock

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g14422-ultimate-quik-detailertrade/
try it on your car interior then your cell phone and glasses. then even if you don't use it on the camera, your other stuff will be clean

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

Why do you want to defeat your buyers?

Other than that good info on what not to do.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

"In preparing a camera for sale an honest gentle cleaning is you best route. Using "cosmetics" to conceal normal wear will likely come off and result in a very dissatisfied buyer. Folks expect some accurate indications of usage and will and should pay accordingly".

That was a general statement not directed at the OP!

Some folk try to camouflage minor dings and scuffs with "scratch cover" etc. It is not a good idea- that's all, no "defeating" implied or expressed. Best regards!

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Paul Buckhiester Loc: Columbus, GA USA

I would advise against anything with acetone in it.