LWW
Loc: Banana Republic of America
Peterff wrote:
Kenko are very well reviewd on various camera brands, but not exactly 'el cheapo'. Less than Nikon (or Canon), but not the $20 level, which may be what the OP is looking for...
If you want to lose all electronic communications then a cheapie set will work fine ... but cost a lot in time.
After all, minus the electronics, they only air tubes with mounting points.
DirtFarmer
Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
As far as which is better, the extension tubes, hands down.
The add-on lenses are in general single element lenses rather than the multi-element lenses that your camera uses to produce images. Single element lenses are not optimized for image sharpness nor chromatic abberation. I doubt that they have good anti-reflection coatings.
Focusing rails are basically variable length extension tubes. They are probably significantly more expensive.
A fourth option has been mentioned: purchasing a used macro lens. This would be the best option.
I can only speak to what's available for Nikon. If using Canon, or whatever other brand you will need to do some research beyond my suggestion as to what is available. I have used Nikon tubes, micro lenses and screw in close up lenses since the late 60s. As mentioned, high quality multi-elemnet screw in close up lenses a quite expensive. I agree with others, do not waste $ on single element screw in closeup lenses. They are a waste of your $. So, I'd suggest you hunt for used tube/tubes. They are simple devices that bring focus closer at the expense of loss of distant focus ability, but that is not an issue for your intended interest. If you own a handheld incident light meter that method works perfectly so long as you know the exposure math. If not, in camera metering is more tedious but works fine. I just prefer the convenience of hand held metering for closeup work, but that is just me. Another UHH member recently picked up a used Nikon M2 tube for $9 plus postage. A good stable rail is not a cheap investment. A solid tripod and mount that does not sag is essential, plus some form of remote release is critical in my view. Live view or whatever other companies call it is best or mirror lockup if your camera supports that method. It is a tedious way to take photos but can be great fun. Good luck & hope you enjoy this realm.
You did mention using a focus rail. Some members are indicating it is a bellows unit. Not true. While better bellows systems also incorporate a focus rail, I would never purchase a bellows without a built in focus rail myself, some less expensive brand name bellows systems do not have a built in focus rail. A simple focus rail is used to move the camera plus lens attached, (can be a macro lens, reversed, on bellows, with filters etc) forward and back until you find the best focus point and composition. Some may incorporate a short lateral rail to move side to side slightly. But fore and aft, for focussing is the main purpose, mounted on a solid tripod and head of course. A focus rail is never used without a tripod.
Peterff
Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.
LWW wrote:
If you want to lose all electronic communications then a cheapie set will work fine ... but cost a lot in time.
After all, minus the electronics, they only air tubes with mounting points.
Agreed, I was pointing out the cost difference with relation to experimenting.
The lens or add ons that you use for macro are really not as important as how you are going to light whatever you are shooting. With proper lighting you can get great macro shots with a lens stuck on the end of a toilet paper roll.
If you want to find the "Macro" group - look at the bottom of this page and click on "All Sections". You will find it there! I have some extension tubes that work quite well and are cheap (DIGITAL brand I believe) Still playing around with them and enjoy them with my 50mm the best. I just got the Tokina 100mm for Christmas and I'm having a blast with it so when you want to move up.......
rdubreuil wrote:
You won't be able to do distant subjects with the add on magnifiers either.
Right. That's a huge disadvantage when you're taking macro photos of distant objects.
bellgamin wrote:
I want to experiment with macro a bit, so I want to do it on the cheap. I have read of 2 el cheapo methods:
1) extension tubes
2) macro filters (you know, those +1 +4 +10 sets - what is the correct name of them I wonder)
Which is better, 1 or 2?
Oh yes, just remembered --- focusing rails ... I assume they will attach to any standard tripod screw-it-on gizmo. Correct?
You might also consider lens stacking, or reverse-coupling:
http://extreme-macro.co.uk/coupled-reverse-lens/
olsonsview wrote:
Why not purchase a used manual focus macro lens to fit your camera? Macro shooters, working up to 1:1 never use auto focus or VR capabilities.
Manual focus, especially with a focus rail you asked about, on a tripod, is the cheapest, quality way to go. You may even find a used autofocus macro lens, without VR for a low price. Then you can use auto exposure. The only cheap macro method that works well is reversing a good lens. The closeup filters are usually less than good, and extension tubes work OK, but work way better with a macro lens on the end of them. Good Luck!
Why not purchase a used manual focus macro lens to... (
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I found a 58mm Nikon macro or micro (Nikon label) for $26 on eBay. Nothing was wrong with it and it will auto meter in A. The are out there. One time for fun I took a enlarging lens and a T mount and two toilet paper tubs one split so it would fit in the other and glued the lens and T mount to the ends and it made a great macro lens. I would rough focus by pushing one tube back and forth and then fine focus by moving my head back and forth. Since i had the stuff to make it - no cost. I found that when you have litte money and want to do something you kind find a way. - dave
wilsondl2 wrote:
I found a 58mm Nikon macro or micro (Nikon label) for $26 on eBay ... ...
I tried looking on Ebay for a macro just before I started this thread. I found some *reasonably priced* lenses that said they were macros, but the prices looked too low to be true. Also, I read somewhere that a 100mm or 200mm or even 300 mm macro lens has advantages over a 50mm macro. True? I wondered. If so, why? I wondered. Also, I saw some zoom-macro lenses by tamron & sigma. They had macro switches on them. Neat! I thought. Not all that expensive, either.
But you have re-aroused the hunter instinct in me. I must return to Ebay, KEH, et alia, to seek out a find such as your $26 Nikon. My limit $150.
Areas where I am unsure...
1) Should I consider one of the zoom macros or stay with non-zoom?
2) What advantage (if any) does a (for instance) 180mm macro have over a (for instance) 50mm macro?
3) Are tamron & sigma okay or should I seek nikon only?
I have never owned a zoom “macro” so cannot say if they are any good. However you would find the shorter true macros have very limited working distances. That can be a great headache. Hard to get your tripod positioned and shadows created by you can be a headache. 100~200mm are easier to work with but will have less dof. I have a 55, 105 and 200. The 105 is my favorite. Others may feel differently though.
[quote=bellgamin]@EnglishBrenda -- No macro forum for me on the drop down menu. Probably off limits to those who have only just learned how to spell m.a.c.r.o. sigh 😕
The macro forum is for everyone. You can find it by clicking on the HOME button at the top of this page. Then go to the bottom of the list where you will find the option to see all forums (sections) and here you will find loads and loads of sections among which is the Macro section - just click on subscribe and it will come up in your daily as do the others you are subscribed to. All sections are for us all and all will welcome you - I expect there are too many to list separately.
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