gym Loc: Athens, Georgia

I'm not so handy with intricate camera maintenance that I want to mess around with any detailed stuff. How often should one have a dslr cleaned, and otherwise taken to a good camera repair shop for routine maintenance?

Ched49 Loc: Pittsburgh, Pa.

You'll know when your sensor needs cleaned when you see spots on your images. You can also clean it yourself with a kit, it's not hard to do.

BebuLamar

Sensor and focusing screen need to be cleaned. Also clean the camera. But that's about all maintenance needed.

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

I know someone who takes his DSLR in for an internal cavity cleaning once a year. He changes lenses quite often photographing vehicle races in the windy, dusty deserts. Dust, sand, and dirt gets inside his camera doing that. He uses after each event, a rocket blower, but still has the annual cleaning done. Sensor cleaning, is all that is needed by most. And only needs cleaning if necessary. Get a rocket blower for your camera's sensor. And a microfiber cloth for its exterior.

Hyperhad Loc: Thunder Bay, Canada

After every shoot, I clean all the equipment I used. First, if it is cold outside, I put the gear into a plastic bag. This prevents condensation from forming on the camera and lenses. Instead, it forms on the outside of the bag. I leave it there until the bag is dry on the outside, and the camera has come up to room temperature.

I use a blower bulb to remove any dust, then a soft-bristled paintbrush to loosen anything that still clings to surfaces. I pay particular attention to any crevices, buttons, or places that dirt can hide. If your lens extends when zoomed out, clean there as well. I use the blower bulb as well to do this.

Any smudges that resist this treatment will be wiped with a slightly damp microfibre cloth and gentle pressure, then dried with another dry cloth. One place that many miss is the front and rear lens cap. These can accumulate a lot of debris, which can then get into your lens. The blower bulb is good for getting rid of this. The rear lens element, due to its close proximity to the body of the camera, and the fact that it is constantly being put onto and taken off the camera body can also accumulate some debris. I usually try not to use a blower bulb here as it can push the dirt into the body of the lens. I hold the lens so that the the rear element faces the floor. I then use a separate soft brush to gently brush anything so that it falls down, not back into the lens body. Finally, and only if the glass needs it (smudges), I clean the glass. I am old-school, using just my breath to fog the lens, then using lens cleaning paper. Start at the centre of the glass and using light pressure, rotate the paper in ever-increasing circles until you reach the outer edge of the glass. This will usually suffice. If the smudges don't go away, put a small amount of the fluid on a loosely wadded piece of the paper and repeat the process. A further piece of the paper and breath will finish the job. Do not apply heavy pressure at any time. You do not need to clean the glass if it is not dirty. I knew a camera assistant who would clean the front of a lens after every shot. Over time, the coatings on the lens were damaged. This was a very expensive film lens. So clean your glass when needed, but use the least aggressive method you can. A blower bulb is usually all that is needed.

Keep the lens mounts and camera body lens mount clean as well. They can get dirty. Again, be gentle. Hold the camera body so that it faces the floor so that any debris does not go back into the camera. Most debris will wipe off with a damp microfibre cloth. Dry off after. Contacts can be cleaned gently with an electronics contact cleaner. No need to scrub at it. As mentioned in another post, the coatings on the contacts are very thin.

If you notice any dust inside the camera body itself, use a blower bulb, again while holding the opening down facing the floor. This could still blow some of the debris further inside the camera body, so only do this is if there is an obvious need. If you are not comfortable doing this, go to your local camera store and ask for help. After performing this procedure, you may want to have them clean the sensor. There are kits to do this available, but if you are unsure, have it done by an experienced person. If you are still unsure, send it to the manufacturer. They will do a thorough cleaning.

There is no need to panic over any of this. I was trained and worked as a film camera operator, and we took very good care of our very expensive equipment. So I am very careful when using my own photo equipment now. Don't be afraid to maintain your equipment. It can be delicate, but with careful maintenance, it will last you a lifetime.

I have several soft paintbrushes that I have labelled. You do not want to use the same brush you use on the outside of your lenses and cameras on your glass. You will end up getting the debris from the exterior of your equipment onto your glass. This is not good. Label and use each brush and cloth for a specific purpose only.

Finally, I am not a big fan of using microfibre cloths or lenspens on my glass. For me, there is just too much chance of debris getting trapped in them, then when used to clean a lens, can scratch it. I have seen people pull a cloth or lenspen out of their bag, use it to rub their lens, then put it back into their bag, for next time. I cringe at this. We have all seen people "clean" their lens with the shirt they are wearing. Yikes!

This is my routine. My training and professional work instilled this level of care for my equipment. Just be aware of the condition of your gear, and take the steps necessary to keep it working. It is time well spent to keep your very expensive gear in top condition.

Hope this helps.
Chris

Steve DeMott Loc: St. Louis, Missouri (Oakville area)

jwj53

Use Kimwipes from Kimtech. They are cheap and work great.

queencitysanta Loc: Charlotte, North Carolina

In the 70's I was woth a National Geographic Magazine photographer (Ted Spehar) not sure if spelling is correct. Ted took many of the pictures in the lunar space module. Ted was using an old F Nikon, when he needed he pulled out the tail of his t-shirt and cleaned the lens. I almost fell over.

insman1132 Loc: Southwest Florida

Good question, gym. As your question referred to having it done professionally, we should probably ask How many shutter clicks per typical year?

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

The biggest enemy of digital cameras is dust. When it gets on your sensor, you'll have dark spots or blobs or squiggles in your images. They're usually in the same places on all images. They need to be cleaned off.

To minimize the need for cleaning:

Change lenses in "still air". A parked car with windows up and engine off is helpful when traveling.

Keep the camera body capped (with a CLEAN body cap) while you're cleaning the rear lens element.

Keep both the front and rear elements of all your lenses, and the lens mounts, scrupulously clean.

If your camera has a sensor cleaning vibrator, enable it in the menu so it runs every time you turn the camera on or off.

Use only materials and supplies MADE for cleaning sensors and lenses, as directed.

If you don't mind a bit of instruction, check out:

http://photosol.com and http://cleaningdigitalcameras.com

Use a Giotto Rocket Blower to knock most grit and surface dust off of sensors. DO NOT use canned air (Dust-Off) on camera mirrors, focusing screens, or sensors. If the liquid comes out, it may freeze and crack glass surfaces. It also tends to leave an oily residue.

Oil, grease, or whatever "sticks" onto your sensor will respond best to cleaning with a Sensor Swab and *pure* methanol with up to 10% ethanol and no water (Eclipse). (Use the link to http://photosol.com )

If you work your camera hard, it may need professional attention (what's known as a Cleaning, Lubrication, and Adjustment, or CLA). Many professionals cycle all their equipment through a repair center for an annual CLA. However, they're using their gear on an almost daily basis, and it HAS to work. You may not need one for several years, if your gear gets light usage.

If you're all thumbs, $50 to $125 is the normal range for a good sensor cleaning. A thorough CLA can cost more.

Let your comfort level determine which way you go.

gym Loc: Athens, Georgia

It varies, of course. I went back and took a look at one I use a lot and it's between ten to 12 thousand clicks a year.

gym Loc: Athens, Georgia

thanks. After reviewing all the posts, it seems that is the general consensus. Oddly, I haven't noticed any specks or other warning signs. I clean the lenses with appropriate cloth and lens cleaning fluid. I have three cameras, and each is usually equipped with the lens I use most on that model. So there isn't as much changing of lenses as it could be if I were using one device.

Hyperhad Loc: Thunder Bay, Canada

Sounds like you're good to go. One thing I missed: keep whatever you use to carry your gear clean inside. Take everything out of your bag, remove any dividers, turn it upside-down, and shake/smack it. A vacuuming with the small nozzle wouldn't hurt either.

Lots of good advice from everyone.

CO

Get a filtered blower to remove dust. I have a Koh Global Hepa Jet Air II blower. It has a large hepa filter, an anti-static filter, a one-way check valve, and medical grade PVC bulb. Most blowers have a rubber bulb that can shed fine particles. The PVC bulb on the Koh blower won't do that. Adorama Camera has it or you can order it directly from Koh Global.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Most of the dust that comes into the sensor and mirror area of the camera comes from the body cap and rear lens caps. Keep those clean and you will extend the time between camera cleanings.

In short, you clean a camera when dirt is visible in the viewfinder (mirrror and/or focusing screen), or you see spots in your images (sensor). Once every 18 months or so it is a good idea to send the camera in for a thorough check out by a factory-trained tech. They will test all functions, replace worn doors and latches, replace body grips etc. The cost can be $150 or so. When you get it back it will be 100% up to spec.