TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

You’ve already gotten all the advice you need, but I’ll distill it to what I use:

70-200 f2.8 either wide open or stopped down just a little (like f3.5) if you have the light.
Shutter 1/250 minimum, 1/500 preferred, 1/1000 if you have the light.
Manual mode with Auto ISO (no upper limit - noise is better than blur)
AI Servo, case 4 or 5 (back button focus if you know how)
Single point AF or center with a few surrounding points
Anti flicker on
Auto WB
Get as close as possible and on the same level as the players (or lower). On the floor behind the basket is good, but be prepared to move in a hurry😂

Ob1 Loc: Utah

I shoot for my local high school and I use a sony 6500. The lens I mainly use is the 24-70. I experimented with the A7Rll and the 85 1.4. The A7Rll is not a sports camera. I used the 85 1.4 lens at a youth basketball game I think I will try this lens on the 6500 next week. The minimum shutter speed I use is 400, I mainly shoot 500. I hope it's OK if I added an image.

(Download)

SS319

You got a decent shot of your granddaughter between the circles, and one shot from a roll of film use to be the mark of success.

Get to the ball game earlier and get in the first row - that will help. IF the school will allow it, stand down at the end of the floor and shoot flash. I think I would take the flicker off as well. As high as you were in the stands, you could not control the amount of camera shake you were applying - from other people in the stands. If you are on the floor, standing, you can lock your elbows to your ribs and support that camera with a tripod stance - even leaning back against the wall at time.

Most area newspapers that cover wide distribution areas are looking for pictures of high school sports - talk to the paper and get a press card - then request press privileges under the basket from the school AD

SteveR Loc: Michigan

I have run into similar problems with a UHH poster who was attempting to get good photos of her daughter who was a diver. She ended up renting a Nikon D500 which can handle high ISO for indoor sporting events. This ended up solving her problem and she purchased a D500. I know you're a Canon shooter, but a camera that can handle shooting at high ISO and allow you to shoot at the shutter speed you need to stop the action would be worth it in the long run if you're going to be doing a lot of indoor shooting.

tshift Loc: Overland Park, KS.

Most everything else looks Ok. Your shutter speed is way to slow. Shooting with a f/3.5 you will need much more light. By raising shutter speed you will make ISO go way up and so noise may be an issue. You should be shooting with your 70-200MM Sigma. High school gyms are really tough to shoot in, very few have any good quality lighting for photography. getting lower in the stands and closer will help also. Good luck, keep practicing as practice makes perfect. Thanks

Tom

Wanda Krack Loc: Tennessee, USA

The first thing I noticed is where the focus is. In several of the shots, it looks as if the focus is on the closest object. If you set your focus on center weighted, or spot focus, and point the focus spot on the part of the frame that is important to you, the camera will focus on that person/ball, whatever and what is closest to you and what is behind will blur. Slow speed may not be the only reason some of the shots are not sharp.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Wanda - I fear you've confused "center weighted" and "spot" with metering modes rather than AF Area Selection Modes as described starting on page 90 of the EOS 7D II Instruction Manual. Placing a single point or an expanded single point on a fast erratic moving subject can be a struggle, even for someone with a good deal of experience in shooting sports. The OP will need to experiment with various AF settings, but the 7DII feature of Zone AF is one to consider along with manually moving this cluster of points around the frame and not just shooting from the center point(s).

jpgto Loc: North East Tennessee

Too slow of shutter speed and focusing issue?

sb Loc: Florida's East Coast

You cannot hand-hold a photo with a telephoto lens at 1/30 or 1/20, and if using a tripod, it will work for still subjects. You need to increase your iso until you can reduce shutter speed to 1/250 at least. Not all cameras can produce good images with high iso, though.

RolandDieter

In the top six your shutter is too slow. I like the bottom two: the shooter is almost sharp enough, and the other player has enough blur to indicate action. You don't want everyone tack-sharp or it looks posed (even when people cannot actually stand motionless in these positions). I did well as a sport photographer (mostly motor sports, but also some high school softball and basketball while my daughter was playing). My customers usually liked the ones where the subject person was tack-sharp and those around him/her had some motion blur.

sterrill Loc: missouri

I shoot high school basketball using a d750 with a 50mm f1.4. Our gymns have poor lighting. I shoot at iso 6400, shutter speed 1/800sec, and generally at f 2..8. Camera in manual mode. I do get some noise but I do get the shots. I also get much closer to the action. For telephoto a 70 to 200 f2.8 will work but only at high iso. Ill post some later today under an obvious title.

treadwl Loc: South Florida

As a reference point---I shoot NAIA and NACC college basketball.
I am a NIikon shooter (but Canon will work just fine.)

I shot with a NIkon D7100 camera to prove a point (it is a DX camera) The camera will work just fine---so will yours. The lens is the real issue. You will need something in the 70-200mm range and since high school gym lights are AWFUL, it will need to be a 2.8. I always shoot the lens wide open (f2.8) Even in the worst lit gyms (some NAIA gyms are no better than high school as far as lighting) my rule is shutter MUST be 1/750 or faster. Thus the ISO is the variable. Generally I shoot at 3200 unless the gym is good for TV lighting. So you need a camera that will give you that setting as native----not extended ISO. Get to the game early. Sit in the front row--you want to be on your schools offensive half of the court about even with the foul line. (If you can talk to the officials, and see if they will let you stand against the wall (about 8-10 feet) behind the end line under the basket). Hold camera properly, right hand on grip and shutter, left hand under the barrel of the lens. Press the camera tight against your forehead. Let the action come to you--don't chase it. As they come to you fire short bursts---3-5 frames. The ones in the middle will be your best results. Keep your finger on the shutter so you are in constant focus (this burns lots of battery) but it insures that the camera will be in focus when the players come into your field of view. The key is high shutter speed and keep the image in focus. If you are under the basket use about 70mm focal length. If you are on the side line push focal length to 100 or longer.

You do not need a tripod or mono pod to shoot basketball. Hold the camera tight, as suggested above, keep your elbows against you body.

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE

Leon S Loc: Minnesota

Why don't you go down to the gym when the ladies or lads are practicing. Don't wait until game day. You will definitely had to increase the shutter speed. I would start at about 500 shutter speed. I'd next set the F stop at no higher than F8 and work your way down and again view what you have. When you've maximized the field of view, start increasing your ISO until the grain kills the shot and readjust. Obviously you are limited by the quality of the equipment you have, but you can definitely improve what your doing now. Remember sitting in the stands means that every time someone gets up or moves, the stands vibrate. That makes using any form of monopod useless. Experiment while your at practice, view your shots while still there, bring a lap top if possible to blow up your shots. Then go home and view the shots at your leasure. If your post processing program doesn't allow you to view your settings, take notes while you shoot. Your time will be well spent. Good Luck and have fun. Leon

photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA

This what I would also advise, especially about ISO and shutter speed. Pump the ISO and shoot in shutter priority mode.

CanonTom Loc: Birmingham

I have been trying to learn the real and practical differences in FF vs crop sensor cameras now for several months and there is a mention in this comment that may well be true, I honestly do not know, but would surely like to know and to understand. The phrase included above indicates that:

"For technical reasons that you don't need to worry about a full frame body is the same as twice as much light."

I was totally unaware of this and I may not need to know , but I surely would like to know! A very experienced wedding photographer once told me that while a FF camera would give more light for a particular setting vs a crop sensor camera that it "is only about one stop of light."

It does not sound to me like both statements can be correct. Would someone try to enlighten me on this? I would really like to know and understand! Twice as much light and I think my mind is made up to shop! Only one stop sounds like I can get by with what I have......

Please explain to someone who wants to know...and Thanks for the comments in advance! Tom