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Jan 15, 2018 15:56:41   #
via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP
 
pesfls wrote:
I have had difficulty getting a decent print of this image. What happens is it keeps printing more underexposed than this. I’m not very computer wise. I was told to calibrate our monitor. Our computer is an iMac with 21” screen. I went through the monitor calibration proceedure in settings. Next I was advised to go to drycreekphoto.com and look up their printer & calibrate ours to their specific Epson printer. All that was utter greek to me. I was also advised to resave the file from tiff to jpeg. I did that. I still struggle with getting a print that satisfies me. Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have had difficulty getting a decent print of th... (show quote)


Did you say which epson printer you are using? A new one or one of the older versions? The Epson 1400 and Epson 1900 are useless for a quality BW print. Are you printing using the correct paper profile? You don't say what program you are using to print, can you tell the program to print the image lighter? Can you do a proof print review on your program? What paper are you using, the paper makes a big difference in the final print look.

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Jan 15, 2018 16:30:13   #
hassighedgehog Loc: Corona, CA
 
I take my images to a local copy/print center and have found that they are darker than I want. Have found that if I ask them to print as light as they can, it is just right. However, they will reprint if I forget to ask that.

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Jan 15, 2018 16:51:19   #
Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA
 
pesfls wrote:
I have had difficulty getting a decent print of this image. What happens is it keeps printing more underexposed than this. I’m not very computer wise. I was told to calibrate our monitor. Our computer is an iMac with 21” screen. I went through the monitor calibration proceedure in settings. Next I was advised to go to drycreekphoto.com and look up their printer & calibrate ours to their specific Epson printer. All that was utter greek to me. I was also advised to resave the file from tiff to jpeg. I did that. I still struggle with getting a print that satisfies me. Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have had difficulty getting a decent print of th... (show quote)


Could just be a matter of selecting the correct paper. They make papers with varying degrees of contrast. Look up Moab or Seagull and check out their papers. You may find a paper that has the contrast you are looking for.

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Jan 15, 2018 18:00:44   #
canon Lee
 
pesfls wrote:
I have had difficulty getting a decent print of this image. What happens is it keeps printing more underexposed than this. I’m not very computer wise. I was told to calibrate our monitor. Our computer is an iMac with 21” screen. I went through the monitor calibration proceedure in settings. Next I was advised to go to drycreekphoto.com and look up their printer & calibrate ours to their specific Epson printer. All that was utter greek to me. I was also advised to resave the file from tiff to jpeg. I did that. I still struggle with getting a print that satisfies me. Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have had difficulty getting a decent print of th... (show quote)


Good advice given here. If you use LR ( light room) to edit, be aware that it's the "black" & "shadow" sliders that control how light or dark the print will be.... Monitor calibration is more for "color correction", not luminous. Glossy paper will print darker than any other type of paper... I have found that the "shadow" slider is very important, as it controls the mid tones, where detail can be adjusted.... I always adjust the "black" slider first, & tweak the "shadow" slider till I can see detail in the darkest part of the image.... Make sure that the "histogram", (in your camera playback), shows that you haven't "clipped" the blacks, then enlarge the image in your camera's playback so you can see how much detail you have in the black areas of the image. Good luck. NOTE*.. The print will never be exactly the same as what you see on the monitor, because, the monitor is like looking out a window, and a print needs light to bounce off it to get to your eye. It is a matter of getting to know your printer, and take note of how you adjust your file... It takes a bit of trial & error to get it just right... Remember your printer wants to change your settings (ICC profile), so its guessing. If you use the same printer all of the time, you will eventually know how to adjust the "shadows & "blacks", to get what you want.
I adjust in LR, using the programs histogram, knowing just how much to adjust ....

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Jan 15, 2018 20:39:29   #
pesfls Loc: Oregon, USA
 
So many friendly suggestions and experiences. Thank you all. I will work on observing them.. I'll get there but it's more difficult than I realized to get a bw print that is what I want. I'm not a quitter so it'll come to fruition.

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Jan 16, 2018 03:54:06   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
pesfls wrote:
So many friendly suggestions and experiences. Thank you all. I will work on observing them.. I'll get there but it's more difficult than I realized to get a bw print that is what I want. I'm not a quitter so it'll come to fruition.


I am no expert and still learning, but what I do know is that you have to have the correct printer that is meant for printing good B&W photos. I have Epson P600 which is meant for the job. There is also a latest model, but that is more expensive. I think it is Canon that does a printer that also prints good black and white. It is all to do with the amount of black ink and the P600 has three. Birko on this site is the printer man, so I hope that he will see your thread and respond.

Also, you must calibrate your screen and I have purchased (which was recommended by UHH members) X-rite i1 Display Pro Calibrator which I am pleased with. Also, you must use the correct paper for the printer or get the ICC profile for that paper. Epson printers come with their own profile and no doubt so is the Canon. This is a very expensive hobby and I am glad that I didn't take up the hobby until I retire, as I couldn't have afforded it. In order to get your prints looking like other photographers, or as near to as theirs, you will soon realise that they have the right equipment for the job, if not you will be very disappointed.

Oh, I forgot one more important thing and that is to use the correct inks for the printer and don't listen to those that say to use compatible inks and especially when the printer is under guarantee. If you are not prepared to use the correct inks for the printer you might just as well purchase any printer and use any compatible inks and you will be back to where you started and you will be very disappointed. Yes, the correct inks are expensive, but as I said before, this is an expensive hobby.

I hope others will jump in regarding the Canon printer, so that you can make a comparison.

I hope this has been of some help to you.

Heather

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Jan 16, 2018 14:44:56   #
maryo Loc: Santa fe
 
Like someone else mentioned monitors are setup for web and movies. The best thing to do is to set your monitor brightness down to 50% of the normal setting.

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Jan 16, 2018 23:30:05   #
10MPlayer Loc: California
 
You really need to buy a monitor calibration system like Spyder5 Pro or something similar. It sets up your monitor and computer so that what you see on the monitor is what comes out on the printer. They aren't too terribly expensive. Nothing in this photography hobby is cheap. https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=spyder+5pro&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=78408933854763&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_2llb4qnlga_e

You also need a professional quality printer. If you don't want to buy one you can always take it to a quality photography shop that does printing. But to adjust your images correctly you need the calibrated monitor.

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Jan 16, 2018 23:49:02   #
Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA
 
10MPlayer wrote:
You really need to buy a monitor calibration system like Spyder5 Pro or something similar. It sets up your monitor and computer so that what you see on the monitor is what comes out on the printer. They aren't too terribly expensive. Nothing in this photography hobby is cheap. https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=spyder+5pro&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=78408933854763&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_2llb4qnlga_e

You also need a professional quality printer. If you don't want to buy one you can always take it to a quality photography shop that does printing. But to adjust your images correctly you need the calibrated monitor.
You really need to buy a monitor calibration syste... (show quote)


A Spyder type unit will calibrate your monitor to show what you actually captured. It will look more like the shot you see on your camera's screen but to calibrate the screen with a printer it takes a more advanced calibration unit that costs 2 to 3 times more than the basic unit.

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Jan 27, 2018 16:07:49   #
ygelman Loc: new -- North of Poughkeepsie!
 
SalvageDiver wrote:
Remember that your monitor is transmitting light out to you. The print is reflecting light back to you from the available ambient light. Not necessarily apples-to-apples.
OddJobber wrote:
I do my own printing, but that's important to remember. When I finish processing, I now know that if I go to print (Canon Pro-10), it will be too dark. Now when it looks right on the monitor, I routinely lighten by 1 1/2 stops, then print. Burned up a lot of paper and ink to figure that out.
10MPlayer wrote:
You really need to buy a monitor calibration system like Spyder5 Pro or something similar. It sets up your monitor and computer so that what you see on the monitor is what comes out on the printer. They aren't too terribly expensive. Nothing in this photography hobby is cheap.

Even given all the pieces of advice you got, with some small or large costs involved, here is something you can do to solve your immediate problem. No cost except using up some print paper.
1. As you post-process on your computer, keep your room light VERY low -- almost black -- with no reflections from the screen.
2. You'll have to boost your screen brightness to compensate.
3. Until you get the hang of it, When you send images to print, keep a separate file for each time you print. And keep notes as to which print corresponds to which file version.
4. You'll soon see how to handle the brightness of your screen image so that your print will look "as good" as the screen image. There will still be some difference because the screen transmits light whereas the print reflects light, but you'll eventually be very pleased with your prints -- even before you learn about good printer paper, paper profiles, etc, etc. Good luck.

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Jan 27, 2018 18:06:51   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
ygelman wrote:
Even given all the pieces of advice you got, with some small or large costs involved, here is something you can do to solve your immediate problem. No cost except using up some print paper.
1. As you post-process on your computer, keep your room light VERY low -- almost black -- with no reflections from the screen.
2. You'll have to boost your screen brightness to compensate.
3. Until you get the hang of it, When you send images to print, keep a separate file for each time you print. And keep notes as to which print corresponds to which file version.
4. You'll soon see how to handle the brightness of your screen image so that your print will look "as good" as the screen image. There will still be some difference because the screen transmits light whereas the print reflects light, but you'll eventually be very pleased with your prints -- even before you learn about good printer paper, paper profiles, etc, etc. Good luck.
Even given all the pieces of advice you got, with ... (show quote)


I would find that very frustrating. It is like taking a slow boat to China, as the saying goes. The answer is to purchase a calibrator and a printer specifically for printing B&W photos. Unfortunately, photography is an expensive hobby.

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Jan 27, 2018 20:50:01   #
ygelman Loc: new -- North of Poughkeepsie!
 
ygelman wrote:
4. You'll soon see how to handle the brightness of your screen image so that your print will look "as good" as the screen image. ... you'll eventually be very pleased with your prints -- even before you learn about good printer paper, paper profiles, etc, etc. Good luck.
Heather Iles wrote:
I would find that very frustrating. It is like taking a slow boat to China, as the saying goes. The answer is to purchase a calibrator and a printer specifically for printing B&W photos. Unfortunately, photography is an expensive hobby.

Well, I've found that the expensive method is not fool-proof and can be very intimidating. The steps I suggested are fast (no slow boat, here) and easy. Visit my website to see results.

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Jan 28, 2018 02:59:26   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
ygelman wrote:
Well, I've found that the expensive method is not fool-proof and can be very intimidating. The steps I suggested are fast (no slow boat, here) and easy. Visit my website to see results.


Thanks ygelmam for directing me to your web site which was a pleasure to watch. I especially liked your light and shadow photographs and the little girl with her pulling her holiday trolley remains in my memory and your B&W photos.

You are a professional and is very good at what you do, so obviously your method of getting the desired print is well and truly tested. Perhaps I too, will give it a try.

Finally, you were too modest and so I didn't take you seriously and can only apologise for the ignorance on my part.


Heather

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Feb 24, 2019 11:31:26   #
fergmark Loc: norwalk connecticut
 
Adjust your monitor brightness to match the print you got from it.

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Feb 24, 2019 13:34:22   #
scsdesphotography Loc: Southeastern Michigan
 
jeep_daddy wrote:
Mac computers are known to be very bright. So think for a minute and it should become clear what is happening. So, if your monitor is 140 lumens, (which is very bright) and the picture looks good and bright but your print is dark, maybe if you adjust your monitor 20% darker and then adjust your image so that it is as bright as it was before you darkened your monitor, your print will be much brighter. Or if you have a choice, make the monitor 100 lumens or so. That's how monitor calibration works. Also, if you don't like working from a darker monitor, you can sometimes ask the print module (software) to print the image 20% brighter and see how it turns out. I don't really like this method because you don't get to see the contrast and brightness before printing. You are just guessing print brightness and contrast.
Mac computers are known to be very bright. So thi... (show quote)



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