PaulBa Loc: Cardiff, Wales

I finally managed to make some progress on my macro-rig and have spent the weekend trying it out. Yesterday my first attempt, while not a disaster, could be entitled "an untidy bee"€as the magnification just emphasised the dirt and dust it was coated in. After taking guidance from an article on washing bees I spruced up my next subject although Mrs B was a bit amused when I explained why I wanted to borrow her hairdryer. The resulting stack was far from perfect but a least the subject was a bit cleaner.

Today I though I would be a little more more ambitious and envisaged two bees nose to nose. So after pinning two bees and mounting them on a cocktail stick using sticky tape I set up the rig. However, duo to problems with my flashes overheating I have to stack in 25 shot sessions allowing 10 minutes between each session for cooling. In my haste to restart each session I did not realise that I was pressing the wrong restart button and the lens was moving away from the subject not towards it ......... such is life ....... made me giggle though.

I share the picture of the "clean bee".
Still need to sort out a satisfactory lighting arrangement, I€am thinking of getting a pair of fan-cooled strobes. Opinions or suggestions would be appreciated.

(Download)

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

You are definitely getting it down. What is especially laudible is that I don't see a halo effect around the specimen, which is an artifact that is pretty common.
Dead insects will often be a problem. Especially hairy ones. I am sure it gets a lot better with smoother and less hairy species like beetles.

kpmac Loc: Ragley, La

I like this image.

PaulBa Loc: Cardiff, Wales

Thanks for the kind words Mark.

PaulBa Loc: Cardiff, Wales

Thanks for taking the time to comment kpmac, much appreciated.

Bozsik Loc: Orangevale, California

I assume you are shooting with your flashes in manual. I have mine set to 128th power. Recycle time is immediate and they don't overheat. Happy shooting.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Last attempt of mine to stack a live insect was a slug caterpillar. For something that moves so slow, it was a difficult subject to capture...

naturepics43 Loc: Hocking Co. Ohio - USA

What camera & flash units are you using? Also, are you using manual settings & how do you trigger you flash units.

PaulBa Loc: Cardiff, Wales

Hi naturepics43 thanks for showing an interest. Firstly I should apologise as I could justifiably be criticised as I raised this issue and it was discussed six months ago. The consensus then was that if I want to take large stacks (100+) I should either use some sort of constant lighting (which I tried and didn’t like) or get studio strobes.

However, to answer your question. I use two Canon 430EXIII-RT flashes with 6” diffusers controlled by a ST-E3-RT transmitter. The flashes are set to manual although the power varies between half and full depending on the subject, I take test shots at various settings before starting a stack. I use stackshot to move the camera set to 14 seconds between shots.

Without fail the flashes start to play up somewhere between 30 and 40 exposure. Initially alternative pictures are unlit but that quickly increases to 2/3 and 3/4. I thought it was a battery issue so I changed to eneloop pro rechargeables which easily power over 100 flashes between charges.

I may just have a faulty flash although others did report overheating issues with their Canon units.
To be honest I just need to “bite the bullet” and order those strobes but my finger is hesitating over the purchase button not wanting to give up on my Speedlites.

mawyatt Loc: Clearwater, Florida

If you decide the strobe route, the Adorama (Godox SK300II) Studio 300 AC & R2 Remote have worked well for me, same for others over at: http://www.photomacrography.net
The image on the site opening was shot with these strobes & R2 Remote. I routinely shoot multiple sessions of 300~600 stacks and they don't give me any overheating, misfires, missed frames nor inconsistent output problems.

PaulBa Loc: Cardiff, Wales

Thanks Mike, Godox don’t appear to be stocked by my favoured UK photographic equipment suppliers, I’ll have to do a bit of seeking. From what I’ve read in European based reviews Elinchrom appear to be recommended, not the cheapest but good quality and worth the little extra, I’ve been looking at their D-Lite RX range (favouring the 4/4 Softbox to go kit)

Not sure why I’m hesitating. I know I’ll get them in the end, Paul

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Two points:
1.) In my opinion, the Canon 430EX III-RT speedlight is underpowered for decent macro illumination. It is an upgrade from the original 430EX, but still require near-full output when difused.
2.) Consider a more powerful (high GN) speedlight. Power = quick recycle time at lower output, which is essential for focus-stacking illumination.

I personally use a Nissin Di866 speedlight, purchased used on eBay. Compare GNs here: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-208134-1.html

PaulBa Loc: Cardiff, Wales

Thanks Douglass, I would rather not upgrade my Speedlites especially as they are normally up to the tasks I assign them.

I believe it’s time to stop pondering and just order those studio strobes.

mawyatt Loc: Clearwater, Florida

Paul,

Interesting thread you may find useful.

https://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34802&highlight=

Best,

Mike

PaulBa Loc: Cardiff, Wales

Thanks Mike much appreciated.

A quote from the thread you suggested reading “That’s the kind of experience-centered encouragement I was hoping for” which is something found in abundance on the “True Macro-Photography” forum.

Cheers

Paul