Laandscape Focus: I did look around and may have missed it but could someone either advise which forum to go to ...but my question is: Every time I take landscape photos I struggle...

Nikon Shooter17 Loc: Glenwood, MN

I did look around and may have missed it but could someone either advise which forum to go to ...but my question is:

Every time I take landscape photos I struggle keeping the entire view in focus / clear / detailed if I zoom up in lightroom. I was once told that if you can't zoom up on the pic and have it look sharp I wasn't doing it correctly. When I zoom in I always have areas that blur while some still stay sharp. My verbiage here may be incorrect. I usually try any where from f11 - f16....any guidance or direction?

TheDman Loc: USA

Can you give us an example?

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

You might try Focus stacking. With landscapes, you should be able to do this with just a few images files at f/8. With camera on a tripod you focus on the nearest object you want “in focus”. You then refocus deeper into the image, taking care to overlap. The last image file should be the farthest point you want “in focus”. You then combine these with a software like Zerene or Helicon Focus. Focus stacking can also be accomplished through photoshop, affinity, etc.

Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.

Michael Barrus wrote:

I did look around and may have missed it but could... (show quote)

Those areas that are out of focus are they things like tree limbs, grass. Or is it something near or far?

Mac Loc: Pittsburgh, Philadelphia now Hernando Co. Fl.

Michael Barrus wrote:

I did look around and may have missed it but could... (show quote)

f/11 to f/16 should give you enough DoF. Do you use a tripod, or hand hold? If you hand hold, what is your shutter speed?

ricardo7 Loc: Washington, DC - Santiago, Chile

This is a tricky question as it involves DoF and lens resolution and what trade offs you
are willing to make. Every lens will have an optimal aperture for capturing sharpest image.
You need to test to see what aperture is best on the lens you are using. Test for corners of
the picture as well as the center. Then test that aperture against any smaller aperture to
see where you get the best DoF. Some will say that there is an inherent problem with
diffraction at very small apertures. I've never encountered this problem with my Canon
L lenses nor have I seen published examples of this problem except for extreme blow ups.
Again, you need to test with your equipment. One other thing, do a search on hyperfocal
focusing to increase DoF.

DWU2 Loc: Phoenix Arizona area

Read about hyperfocal distance: https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/hyperfocal-distance.htm

Nikon Shooter17 Loc: Glenwood, MN

Just read on Helicon focus....looks amazing.....just debating right now...probably going to do it...wondering about the process.....do I load direct from the card or can I adjust in lightroom if needed and then use them???....

LoneRangeFinder wrote:

You might try Focus stacking. With landscapes, you should be able to do this with just a few images files at f/8. With camera on a tripod you focus on the nearest object you want “in focus”. You then refocus deeper into the image, taking care to overlap. The last image file should be the farthest point you want “in focus”. You then combine these with a software like Zerene or Helicon Focus. Focus stacking can also be accomplished through photoshop, affinity, etc.

rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin

Sounds like low shutter speed may be a factor here.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

As I’m sure you know, the camera is in focus at only ONE distance - the DOF just describes the range over which the image is acceptably sharp views at specific distances and based on the CoC (circle of confusion) of your particular format. Consequently, if you really enlarge and pixel peep, you can always find areas in front and behind the focus point that are not perfectly sharp, BUT that is not the normal viewing distance. I’d also remark that going to small apertures (like f16 on a 35mm) may cause less sharpness due to diffraction than the gain due to the increased DOF - it’s a trade-off.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Michael Barrus wrote:

Just read on Helicon focus....looks amazing.....just debating right now...probably going to do it...wondering about the process.....do I load direct from the card or can I adjust in lightroom if needed and then use them???....

I don’t use LR, so can’t comment on that.

I now use Zerene for stacking My process is this: Download images to laptop. Open Zerene. Select files. Process the stack. Then import the stacked image into Aperture or Affinity for final touches. This generally involves some cropping, levels adjustment, denoise, etc.

I know I can stack in Affinity, but I haven’t tried it yet. Right now, I’m experimenting with panoramas.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Michael, the advisable technique is to use smaller f-stops (thus increasing the DOF). Next, and probably most importantly, focus about 1/3 the distance into the scene from the nearest point you wish to have in focus. This technique takes into account the ratio of 1/3 in front and 2/3 behind the point of focus will be in focus through DOF.

If one focuses at the farthest object in the photograph, the near end of the DOF zone will be quite a bit farther from the camera. The far end of the DOF zone will be wasted due to the lack of anything past the farthest object in the photograph. This technique is simple, straight forward, and avoids a lot of processing machinations.
--Bob

Michael Barrus wrote:

I did look around and may have missed it but could... (show quote)

catchlight.. Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway

Just a quick reply...

This is a late day shot at f2 with a 50mm prime. I think the depth of focus is reasonable. Some softer images I discarded were actually f4 and greater, so... light vs lens vs shutter speed vs time of day ect. discount the idea of restricting aperture to f8/ f11... not always the answer... f2 gave me the 200 iso that actually contributed to enhanced detail sharpness.

(Download)

R.G. Loc: Scotland

if you're focusing on something way off in the distance, even f/16 wouldn't be enough to keep the closer stuff sharp. When there's a mixture of close and distant, my approach is to use a small aperture and focus on something at approximately the hyperfocal distance for that particular aperture. If there's nothing really close it's not too critical and choosing a focus point a bit beyond the hyperfocal distance will do the job. With a small aperture the distant stuff will tend to take care of itself (unless you're using a focus point that's closer than the hyperfocal distance).

If the focus point is at the hyperfocal distance, the DOF will come half-way back towards you, which gives a fair bit of leeway. You won't need a very small aperture unless you have stuff that's very close to the camera.

Nikon Shooter17 Loc: Glenwood, MN

That makes sense to me,,,still a beginner..I will give it a shot!

rmalarz wrote:

Michael, the advisable technique is to use smaller... (show quote)