I am still not getting tack sharp pics on my macro shots. I am using nikon D750 and nikkor 105 macro lens. This is my understanding of the how to's: use tripod, manual focus on both camera and lens, VR off, put in live view and use a remote release. Am I missing something? Also could my manual focusing with my glasses on make a difference (that could be a dumb question). Thanks in advance, Fran
Fran check the switches on the side of the barrel of this lens. The middle switch should be set to FULL for close macro captures. The closest focal distance (sensor to subject) for this lens is 12" per Nikon specs.
Lots of possible causes for images that are not "Tack sharp". I have found that my live view (Nikon D-7000 & D-7100) is not reliable under certain lighting conditions. What aperture are you using? I use f 11 most of the time. Never over f 16. Are you using flash? What is the subject? Flowers & insects outside almost always have some movement which is the reason I always use diffused flash. If you can tell us what camera settings, shutter speed, aperture & ISO do you use flash. What subjects do you have trouble with? Anything that might point to a specific problem.
I wouldn't necessarily turn the VR off unless you are using extremely fast shutter speeds, 1/1000 or faster. And, are the images sharper when using auto focus?
naturepics43 wrote:
Lots of possible causes for images that are not "Tack sharp".
I shoot mostly flowers and leaves. My AP is usually a min of f/11, unless I am trying to isolate the stamens, for example. I do not use a flash at all. Would you use the in camera flash with diffuser, or an external flash? most of my shots are outdoors in natural light
Looking back on my meta data , I have used F/22 on some occasions.I usually use auto ISO. I mostly use a tripod, so after aperataure setting I set my SS to keep my ISO down. Again I'm concerned that maybe my progressive corrective lenses, can be effecting the focus. Fran
Are any parts of your pictures in good focus?
Just to insert some thoughts, I don't use automatic focus for close up photography. My focusing is done mainly by leaning back and forth, plus turning the focus ring. AF for close up at times goes awry, so I avoid it. I know others use it, but to me it has caused problems.
Using an on camera flash might be problematical since the lens is long enough for it to block much of the flash. But you can try it with a little diffuser made of a wad of tissue, loosely held on with a rubber band. I don't really know how much of an issue the lens length will be. I suspect it will work well enough on subjects that are a couple inches beyond the minimal focal distance.
So one condition not addressed yet is shutter speed. With a tripod and remote shutter control I don't expect you would need to go faster, unless there is signficant movement of the flowers outdoors.
For problem solving, I would like to control the environment as much as possible by shooting subjects indoors, and try a range of settings. What I had done before is have the camera set up on a tripod, set to a widish aperture for shallow depth of field (f/8 or wider), fixed to focus on a ruler that is at a slant, and I would note exactly what ruler lines seemed to be in focus. Then I would carefully take the picture without moving anything, and note where is the centrally focused part in the picture. If it was centered where I thought the focal point was, I called it good.
Mark Sturtevant wrote:
Are any parts of your pictures in good focus?
Yes there are parts that are in focus, but ot super sharp, still a little soft.
Thanks so much for the suggestion about the ruler, I will definitely try it.
Fran
naturepics43 wrote:
If you have a hot shoe mount flash, put one of the... (
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Thank you , I will get one of the diffusers and give that a try
Fran
The literature supplied with the lens says the closer you get to life-size, the less effective VR & AF become and to turn them off. Now if you never go past 1/2 life-size, that may not be the case. I use either a ring light or a softbox equipped speedlight for additional illumination and besides offering more illumination, it offers other benefits. The short duration of the flash stops any motion, be it the subjects or my own (thus no need for VR anyway). The other benefit is that it allows me to stop down the lens for additional DOF (which is minuscule as it is)
jackm1943 wrote:
I wouldn't necessarily turn the VR off unless you are using extremely fast shutter speeds, 1/1000 or faster. And, are the images sharper when using autofocus?
I don't see any mention of what your shutter speeds are. If too slow, that could cause some softening even with flash depending on how slow the shutter speed may be.
Only if the combination of the shutter speed & aperture allows ambient light to make a ghost image.
jackm1943 wrote:
I don't see any mention of what your shutter speeds are. If too slow, that could cause some softening even with flash depending on how slow the shutter speed may be.
Screamin Scott wrote:
The literature supplied with the lens says the closer you get to life-size, the less effective VR & AF become and to turn them off. Now if you never go past 1/2 life-size, that may not be the case. I use either a ring light or a softbox equipped speedlight for additional illumination and besides offering more illumination, it offers other benefits. The short duration of the flash stops any motion, be it the subjects or my own (thus no need for VR anyway). The other benefit is that it allows me to stop down the lens for additional DOF (which is minuscule as it is)
The literature supplied with the lens says the clo... (
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So I did look at the Shutter speed . Although I used a tripod the SS were very slow in order to keep my ISO down I think I'm going to try a light
Fran
I seldom use a tripod for my macro shots. I use the cameras sync speed (1/250th) and usually F11 or F16 with a light source at 1/4 to 1/2 power... Camera & light in manual modes and vary the flash power level or the aperture occasionally to control the exposure. The short duration of the flash negates the need for a tripod. Oh, and my ISO is usually set to 200.
Ben's nana wrote:
So I did look at the Shutter speed . Although I used a tripod the SS were very slow in order to keep my ISO down I think I'm going to try a light
Fran
Screamin Scott wrote:
I seldom use a tripod for my macro shots. I use the cameras sync speed (1/250th) and usually F11 or F16 with a light source at 1/4 to 1/2 power... Camera & light in manual modes and vary the flash power level or the aperture occasionally to control the exposure. The short duration of the flash negates the need for a tripod. Oh, and my ISO is usually set to 200.
Scott, I will try that. Thanks for the tip
Fran
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