Close up lenses versus actual macro lens
Nov 17, 2017 09:00:19 #
Just an example to show that you don't need the latest & greatest macro lens to get good results. This image was taken with a mid-1980's 105mm macro lens. Not stacked either. Handheld but cropped. Download for a more magnified image.
Nov 17, 2017 11:05:38 #
wpas wrote:
I am looking at the Hoya 58mm HMC Close-Up Filter Set II, Includes +1, +2 and +4 Diopter Filters versus one of the more expensive macro lenses recommended by the forum. I am also looking at the Mcoplus Extnp Auto Focus Macro Extension Tube Set for Nikon AF AF-S DX FX SLR Cameras as I would only be doing the occasional close up picture. Which would be the better choice, the lenses or the tubes? Thanks
The lenses are much more user friendly and you do not loose light as with tubes. The higher the diopter strength, the lower the IQ - which is why I would not use the +4 ! The Canon 500D is a +2 2-element and would be preferred for image quality. The Canon 250D is a +4. If you need +4, - that is the one to have.
Nov 17, 2017 11:29:23 #
Hi wpas,
You might consider a different approach. I use the old Nikkor 28-200 3.5-5.6 G lens (not the "D" model, get the "G") and love it on my D750, D7100 or D7000. It focuses through the complete zoom range to about 16" so on a crop sensor that's 300mm at 16" which yesterday filled my frame on a D7100 with a pansy in one of our flower beds. It is NOT VR so you'll have to bump the ISO up a bit to compensate. They range in price from $200 to $300 on eBay (I paid $275.00 for mine). Below is one offered there now. Good luck with your search and let us know what you do. Take care & ...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-ED-AF-Nikkor-28-200mm-G-FX-lens-READ-for-F100-F5-D600-D810-D800-D610-D750/311997222470?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D886bee54ba9c484289da50aad0edc1a7%26pid%3D100705%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100705.m4780.
You might consider a different approach. I use the old Nikkor 28-200 3.5-5.6 G lens (not the "D" model, get the "G") and love it on my D750, D7100 or D7000. It focuses through the complete zoom range to about 16" so on a crop sensor that's 300mm at 16" which yesterday filled my frame on a D7100 with a pansy in one of our flower beds. It is NOT VR so you'll have to bump the ISO up a bit to compensate. They range in price from $200 to $300 on eBay (I paid $275.00 for mine). Below is one offered there now. Good luck with your search and let us know what you do. Take care & ...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-ED-AF-Nikkor-28-200mm-G-FX-lens-READ-for-F100-F5-D600-D810-D800-D610-D750/311997222470?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D886bee54ba9c484289da50aad0edc1a7%26pid%3D100705%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100705.m4780.
Nov 17, 2017 12:12:51 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
The quality of results you get with both "close up filters" and macro extension tubes depends A LOT on the lens you use them upon.
Over the years I've used both... as well as a number of different "real" macro lenses.
In my "daily user" kit, I currently have one 77mm high quality diopter lens (Canon 500D) I hardly ever use, and which cost roughly double the price of that Hoya filter set of three (or more than the Kenko extension tube set mentioned below).
I haven't used those Hoya close-up filters, so can't comment very much. Generic, third party filters of that type that I've used in the past have been utter crap. Those Hoya are HMC multi-coated, which is a good thing. But I am not sure whether they are single element "filters" that tend to have marginal image quality... or the "optically better" multi-element diopters such as the one I use. One problem with any of these is that they're limited to use on lenses with that particular filter size (might be able to use a step ring to fit to smaller diameter, but that also may cause image quality problems by moving the filter farther from the front of the lens).
In contrast, macro extension tubes are versatile and fairly universal... can be used with virtually any lens. With no optics, there's no loss of image quality to "cheap glass" or need for multi-coatings. I have two sets of macro extension tubes (Kenko and several OEM), at least one of which is ALWAYS in my camera bag "just in case". They are extremely versatile and useful with many different lenses. Minor light "fall off" within the tubes is automatically compensated for by any modern camera with its through-the-lens metering... you don't even notice it.
But I wouldn't trust my lenses on those those cheap, plasticky "Mcoplus" extension tubes you reference. Never heard of that brand (they are probably just relabeled Opteka or Zeikos). I spent a bit more for the much better Kenko (about $120) and have used those for many years. The Kenko are comparable in quality to the OEM tubes (which are only sold individually and work out to be much more expensive... plus Nikon's own OEM tubes don't support AF... while the Kenko do).
Avail. at B&H: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/375238-REG/Kenko_AEXTUBEDGN_Auto_Extension_Tube_Set.html
Or, if you prefer, from Amazon (who show the Canon mount version): https://www.amazon.com/Kenko-Extension-Tubes-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000JG88JU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510938144&sr=1-3&
Or, from Adorama: https://www.adorama.com/knaetsdnkaf.html
Another response mentions "reverse mounting" your non-macro lens... which may or may not work. First, it's a bit of a stab in the dark, unless you can find someone using the specific lens/reversing ring adapter you're considering and get info from them... some lenses work well reversed, others don't. Also, it will be limited to just your lenses with the correct filter diameter for whatever reversing ring you buy. And, of course, a reversed lens is manual focus only (might be okay). But the biggest problem is that with "G"-type and similar lenses... which don't have a ring to manually set the aperture (incl. many modern Nikkors, and all modern Canon EF/EF-S lenses).... you'll only be able to shoot a reversed lens wide open, with extremely shallow depth of field at high magnifications. There is a work-around I'm aware of with Canon, but it's a real PITA... involves unmounting and remounting the lens a couple times every time you want to change the aperture setting! I don't know if even that is possible with Nikon gear.
Finally, a "real" macro lens is the fastest, easiest and most convenient solution. More precise levels of magnification and high quality images are pretty much assured (there are virtually no "bad" macro lenses... at least none I'm aware of). Most (all?) macro lenses are "flat field" designs, which render images that are sharp from corner to corner and edge to edge when focused extremely close. This is not the case with non-macro lenses forced to focus closer than they're designed. Of course, a real macro lens bought new can be pretty pricey.... few cost less than $400 and many are $500 or more.
Over the years I've used both... as well as a number of different "real" macro lenses.
In my "daily user" kit, I currently have one 77mm high quality diopter lens (Canon 500D) I hardly ever use, and which cost roughly double the price of that Hoya filter set of three (or more than the Kenko extension tube set mentioned below).
I haven't used those Hoya close-up filters, so can't comment very much. Generic, third party filters of that type that I've used in the past have been utter crap. Those Hoya are HMC multi-coated, which is a good thing. But I am not sure whether they are single element "filters" that tend to have marginal image quality... or the "optically better" multi-element diopters such as the one I use. One problem with any of these is that they're limited to use on lenses with that particular filter size (might be able to use a step ring to fit to smaller diameter, but that also may cause image quality problems by moving the filter farther from the front of the lens).
In contrast, macro extension tubes are versatile and fairly universal... can be used with virtually any lens. With no optics, there's no loss of image quality to "cheap glass" or need for multi-coatings. I have two sets of macro extension tubes (Kenko and several OEM), at least one of which is ALWAYS in my camera bag "just in case". They are extremely versatile and useful with many different lenses. Minor light "fall off" within the tubes is automatically compensated for by any modern camera with its through-the-lens metering... you don't even notice it.
But I wouldn't trust my lenses on those those cheap, plasticky "Mcoplus" extension tubes you reference. Never heard of that brand (they are probably just relabeled Opteka or Zeikos). I spent a bit more for the much better Kenko (about $120) and have used those for many years. The Kenko are comparable in quality to the OEM tubes (which are only sold individually and work out to be much more expensive... plus Nikon's own OEM tubes don't support AF... while the Kenko do).
Avail. at B&H: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/375238-REG/Kenko_AEXTUBEDGN_Auto_Extension_Tube_Set.html
Or, if you prefer, from Amazon (who show the Canon mount version): https://www.amazon.com/Kenko-Extension-Tubes-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000JG88JU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510938144&sr=1-3&
Or, from Adorama: https://www.adorama.com/knaetsdnkaf.html
Another response mentions "reverse mounting" your non-macro lens... which may or may not work. First, it's a bit of a stab in the dark, unless you can find someone using the specific lens/reversing ring adapter you're considering and get info from them... some lenses work well reversed, others don't. Also, it will be limited to just your lenses with the correct filter diameter for whatever reversing ring you buy. And, of course, a reversed lens is manual focus only (might be okay). But the biggest problem is that with "G"-type and similar lenses... which don't have a ring to manually set the aperture (incl. many modern Nikkors, and all modern Canon EF/EF-S lenses).... you'll only be able to shoot a reversed lens wide open, with extremely shallow depth of field at high magnifications. There is a work-around I'm aware of with Canon, but it's a real PITA... involves unmounting and remounting the lens a couple times every time you want to change the aperture setting! I don't know if even that is possible with Nikon gear.
Finally, a "real" macro lens is the fastest, easiest and most convenient solution. More precise levels of magnification and high quality images are pretty much assured (there are virtually no "bad" macro lenses... at least none I'm aware of). Most (all?) macro lenses are "flat field" designs, which render images that are sharp from corner to corner and edge to edge when focused extremely close. This is not the case with non-macro lenses forced to focus closer than they're designed. Of course, a real macro lens bought new can be pretty pricey.... few cost less than $400 and many are $500 or more.
Nov 17, 2017 13:30:08 #
wpas wrote:
Has anyone tried taking macro close up photographs with both the cheaper close up lenses and the more expensive macro lens to compare the difference in quality?
This was taken with a Canon T3i, EF-S 60mm macro, and Canon 250D closeup lens. It will provide an example for discussion.
Nov 17, 2017 13:46:36 #
wpas wrote:
Has anyone tried taking macro close up photographs with both the cheaper close up lenses and the more expensive macro lens to compare the difference in quality?
There are good quality close-up lenses to be had, but they don't compare to a good macro lens and first of all, they don't let you shoot macro!!
Nov 17, 2017 21:48:24 #
jelecroy
Loc: Huntsville, AL
I sprung for a Nikon 60/2.8 macro, and I'm very glad I did. It is easily the sharpest lens in my camera bag. I'm shooting with a DX camera (D7100) and find that the 60mm focal length is also about ideal for portraits.
What I really put the lens to work on, though, is taking pictures of troubled parts on airplanes I am working on. The detail available in ultra-closeups is just amazing. Helps me figure out the best repair method to apply.
Cheers,
Jerry
What I really put the lens to work on, though, is taking pictures of troubled parts on airplanes I am working on. The detail available in ultra-closeups is just amazing. Helps me figure out the best repair method to apply.
Cheers,
Jerry
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