CloudyCoastPhotography

As I slowly, reluctantly and somewhat fearfully enter the realm of off-camera flash, multiple flash/light source and gelling flash, I find myself reading a lot about light meters. So my question is two-fold: how necessary is using a light meter and do you use one? And second, recommendations for purchasing a new one. Looked on Amazon and see light meters priced anywhere from $15 to $200+; is there any specific things I should look for in a light meter? I am clueless on these things. Thanks in advance for the polite, helpful answer(s).

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asiafish Loc: Bakersfield, CA

I'd look for a used Minolta FlashMeter (or AutoMeter xF) IV, V or VI. All are outstanding (even the very old III), but newer ones are progressively easier to use. I have an AutoMeter IV F that I bought ages ago and still use without issue. AA batteries last seemingly forever and no in-camera meter can ever be as accurate as a proper incident reading with a good handheld.

Newer Sekonic meters are just as good, but Minolta had the technology down pat even as early as the 1980s and once you learn to use it, you will never need anything more modern.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Sekonic L‑758DR DigitalMaster
--Bob

BebuLamar

I have the old Minolta Flashmeter III and the newer Konica Minolta Flashmeter VI. I used the when I shoot film. When I shoot digital I don't use any. There is no need. Setting a mutiflash shot isn't something you do quickly and if you have the time, chimping or even check the results out in a computer then adjust is easy.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

A light meter is indispensable for film, especially color negative and transparency film, and more so with flash. But I hardly need anything more than an incident meter as a reality check for daylight outdoor work.

With digital, you have the opportunity to review your results and make adjustments immediately without using even the camera's light meter.

CO

You don't really need a light meter if you're using a speedlight and have it in TTL mode. The flash will first emit a few pre-flashes. The camera's metering will evaluate the reflected light and calculate a final flash output level. The flash will then fire at that power output level. The pre-flashes happen extremely quickly and are practically part of the main flash burst.

Light meters are really useful if you're using your flash in manual mode. It's going to be very useful when you set up multiple speedlights.

I have a Sekonic L-478DR light meter. The touch screen works very well. It has a built-in PocketWizard module. It's also available with Phottix and Elinchrom modules.

ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or

I don't us my studio flash set up anymore. I use to use a Gossen Luna Pro F (flash) The Gossen and my Novatron 1600 with 3 headsand accessories are for sale. Make me an offer and their yours.

CloudyCoastPhotography

Thank you all! Excellent info. Time to purchase a light meter, methinks. Anything specific I should look for in regards to settings, capabilities of said meter, etc?

CO

How will you be triggering the speedlights? Will you use radio triggers or use the camera's pop-up flash to trigger the speedlights optically? If you use radio triggers, having a built-in radio module is nice to have. Some of the Sekonic meters are available to trigger PocketWizard, Elinchrom, or Phottix radio triggers.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

One of the features that I really like about the Sekonic L758DR is that it can be profiled to match your camera's response to a lit scene. The Sekonic software to do this is free.
--Bob

jcboy3

First, what you want is a flash meter, not just a light meter. Second, there's not much to go wrong with them, so I would consider a used one for up to half the price.

If you want to gain control of your lighting, and use multiple flashes, then I do recommend a light meter. That will let you set the lights to the ratio you need for the look you want. Or you can wing it and chimp; digital does have that advantage.

I use two; a Sekonic L538R for studio work (it has a Pocket wizard transmitter), and a Polaris SPD100 for portable work. I recommend the Polaris, which can be bought for around $150 used. The Sekonic is pretty big, but it adds ambient ratio calculation, spot meter, and Pocket wizard transmitter. None of which are critical features.

I also recommend that you use radio triggers that allow you to quickly select flashes to fire. My favorite is the Cactus V6, which also provides remote power adjustment for many flashes (I use it with Nikon, Olympus, and Quantum flashes). And TTL pass through for times when you need it. Other brands are more difficult to use (I have Phottix Odin and Nissin Air as well; but these are true TTL triggers so they have their use).

whwiden

I use two light meters. They are very important for film work. Less so for digital work but I do use them sometimes with digital. My better light meter is a Sekonic Studio Deluxe III, model L-398A. It seems very accurate. Many settings. You can get little slide inserts to manage different settings. Key for me is that it needs no batteries. My smaller simple meter is a sekonic twinmate L-208. It uses a battery but it seems to last forever. It is pretty good, but not to the degree of the studio deluxe. When I am shooting digital in full manual mode I sometimes like to use a meter to get a reality check, though from years of film work my judgment is pretty good--but different locations sometimes change the reality--like high altitude shots in South America. I can highly recommend either, but if you have the luxury of taking multiple shots, you can review your work and adjust.

BebuLamar

I am surprised that you would say that as the meter isn't needed for photography. If you buy one then you should buy the best.

CloudyCoastPhotography

That’s the problem though; which is the “best?” I can’t base best on price, we all know that will bite you in the end. Hence my original posting asking for recommendations.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

The only time I use a light meter is when I am balancing flash outside. My meter reads the ambient light and then adds my flash. I use this reading plus the background reading to establish my f stop.

Here is the one I use: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1219217-REG/sekonic_401_307_l_308s_u_flashmate_light_meter.html?sts=pi