Over Exposed Photograph
Sep 23, 2017 07:36:46 #
On a recent trip to Europe l took a couple of hundred photographs and they were a acceptable to me except for one.
With this particular photograph I must have nudged the exposure wheel, which is easy to do on my Olympus camera.
The result is the shot is badly overexposed, I have attempted to edit it but without much success, so is there any UHH member who would like to have a go at it for me, thanks.
With this particular photograph I must have nudged the exposure wheel, which is easy to do on my Olympus camera.
The result is the shot is badly overexposed, I have attempted to edit it but without much success, so is there any UHH member who would like to have a go at it for me, thanks.
Sep 23, 2017 08:02:17 #
PN_man
Loc: Western New York
Blown out photos are next to impossible to recover. If the data is not there, it's not there. With that said try this:
1) underexpose your raw file if you have it and open in your editor.
2) make a duplicate layer and add a layer mask that is a grayscale copy of your image.
3) change the merge mode to multiply. Your image may look a little dark at this point and perhaps oversaturated, but if there is any texture left to recover in the highlights it will show up.
4) flatten your layers
5) reduce saturation if needed. Use whatever method you like (I prefer curves) to lighten the shadows and mid-tones which are probably too dark.
If there is nothing left too recover, you can always pull a sky from another photo and put it in. It's quite simple to select a blown out sky with a magic wand tool.
1) underexpose your raw file if you have it and open in your editor.
2) make a duplicate layer and add a layer mask that is a grayscale copy of your image.
3) change the merge mode to multiply. Your image may look a little dark at this point and perhaps oversaturated, but if there is any texture left to recover in the highlights it will show up.
4) flatten your layers
5) reduce saturation if needed. Use whatever method you like (I prefer curves) to lighten the shadows and mid-tones which are probably too dark.
If there is nothing left too recover, you can always pull a sky from another photo and put it in. It's quite simple to select a blown out sky with a magic wand tool.
Sep 23, 2017 08:22:47 #
Sep 23, 2017 08:23:20 #
The picture is badly overexposed as Peter mentioned. He is also right that when the highlights are clipped it is almost impossible to recover them.
What type of metering were you using? Did you make any correction to the exposure?
When using digital an important highlight should be metered with center weighted or spot metering and then a correction is needed because the meter makes that area it read a middle tonality or 18% gray. If you use multi pattern metering the histogram is the only control you have over the exposure because computerized meters (matrix, evaluative and multi pattern) read the whole scene and usually ADD exposure in the way of exposure compensation. How much they compensate nobody actually knows. To be more specific, with those meters and except for the histogram the photographer is not in control of his or her exposures.
If you had been in control instead of "acceptable exposures" your exposures would have been perfect.
What type of metering were you using? Did you make any correction to the exposure?
When using digital an important highlight should be metered with center weighted or spot metering and then a correction is needed because the meter makes that area it read a middle tonality or 18% gray. If you use multi pattern metering the histogram is the only control you have over the exposure because computerized meters (matrix, evaluative and multi pattern) read the whole scene and usually ADD exposure in the way of exposure compensation. How much they compensate nobody actually knows. To be more specific, with those meters and except for the histogram the photographer is not in control of his or her exposures.
If you had been in control instead of "acceptable exposures" your exposures would have been perfect.
Sep 23, 2017 09:08:20 #
Capture One Pro 10. I am sure a RAW file would have achieved a more pleasing result.
Sep 23, 2017 12:11:55 #
Thank you William, I took nearly 200 photographs on this trip and every shot was perfect for me except for this one.
As I stated in my post I somehow had increased the EV without realising it, the shots immediately before and after were perfect IMO.
This photograph was just a snap shot and wasn't intended as a work of art.
As I stated in my post I somehow had increased the EV without realising it, the shots immediately before and after were perfect IMO.
This photograph was just a snap shot and wasn't intended as a work of art.
Sep 23, 2017 12:16:11 #
rafikiphoto wrote:
rafikCapture One Pro 10. I am sure a RAW file would have achieved a more pleasing result.
Thanks rafiki, I am very pleased with your effort.
Sep 23, 2017 12:29:36 #
Sep 23, 2017 15:39:22 #
Sep 23, 2017 20:34:37 #
Sep 24, 2017 02:14:46 #
johneccles wrote:
rafik
Thanks rafiki, I am very pleased with your effort.
Thanks rafiki, I am very pleased with your effort.
Thanks. Viewing it later in the day I thought it still too bright so I toned it down a bit further...
Sep 24, 2017 04:46:47 #
Thanks to everyone who went to the effort of rescuing my overexposed photograph, I am very impressed with all of them.
I still cannot understand what I did wrong with this particular photograph, I took six shots of this village and except for this one they are all perfectly exposed at 1/200 to 1/500 sec at F8. The photograph I posted for members to rescue was shot at 1/30 sec in error, the only thing I can think of is that I moved the exposure compensation wheel without realising it. This can happen on my Olympus camera as it's adjacent to the shutter button, although I have never done it before. I have since reallocated this button function from exposure+/- to aperture control to prevent this happening again.
I still cannot understand what I did wrong with this particular photograph, I took six shots of this village and except for this one they are all perfectly exposed at 1/200 to 1/500 sec at F8. The photograph I posted for members to rescue was shot at 1/30 sec in error, the only thing I can think of is that I moved the exposure compensation wheel without realising it. This can happen on my Olympus camera as it's adjacent to the shutter button, although I have never done it before. I have since reallocated this button function from exposure+/- to aperture control to prevent this happening again.
Sep 24, 2017 07:39:04 #
Sep 24, 2017 09:50:00 #
John, we are amateur photographers. The majority of our shots are not work of art but when we have the opportunity of turning a subject into a work of art we have to pay attention. I will be the first one to tell you that while traveling that is not always possible.
Since you are using Olympus cameras I would recommend that you do a search in Utube for Derek Forss. Mr. Forss is a British photographer that serves as an Olympus visionary and mentor but in addition he is a great educator.
He has a series of videos using Olympus cameras and lenses and some of them are excellent to learn exposure. It has been mentioned here that a RAW file would have given you better results but I tell you that regardless of the type of file once the highlights are clipped there is no way to recover them satisfactorily. To repeat myself again, ALWAYS meter from an important highlight and in my case I usually do that using spot metering.
Once you make a correction in the camera to the exposure suggested by the meter other tonalities will fall within the dynamic range of the sensor and will be properly exposed.
I hope this helps.
Since you are using Olympus cameras I would recommend that you do a search in Utube for Derek Forss. Mr. Forss is a British photographer that serves as an Olympus visionary and mentor but in addition he is a great educator.
He has a series of videos using Olympus cameras and lenses and some of them are excellent to learn exposure. It has been mentioned here that a RAW file would have given you better results but I tell you that regardless of the type of file once the highlights are clipped there is no way to recover them satisfactorily. To repeat myself again, ALWAYS meter from an important highlight and in my case I usually do that using spot metering.
Once you make a correction in the camera to the exposure suggested by the meter other tonalities will fall within the dynamic range of the sensor and will be properly exposed.
I hope this helps.
Sep 24, 2017 10:24:53 #
Nikonnorm wrote:
How is this?
Did you use Landscape Pro for the sky?
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