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Stabilizing Nikon D500 on small boat
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Sep 15, 2017 11:23:07   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
Wait for a hard freeze?

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Sep 15, 2017 12:40:31   #
rcdovala
 
I've posted this before but it is worth repeating. Using image stabilization while on a vibrating platform can produce disastrous results. I would not rely on VR to work as one might expect while on a boat. It all depends on how much vibration and/or rapid movement the boat introduces to the situation. I used IS on a slow-moving riverboat in France successfully but had unacceptable results using IS on a high-speed turbine driven boat to Vancouver Island, Canada. I would alternate between using and not using VR.


Steve Perry wrote:
All that and a VR lens :)

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Sep 15, 2017 13:33:20   #
chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
...been out on a competitive sailboat many times...just me, my body as insulation and lots of shutter ( yes I'm maxed on the shutter in aperture priority, 'cuz I'm wide open on my 70-200 f2.8, only thing I can think of is I knocked the f-stop down inadvertently from f8 or so), didn't even use VR as I recall. Got lots of nice action shots and even went through a knockdown (which is when there is too much sail and the boat goes over on its side...lots of action there!). Of course, no motor vibration to contend with but I'm thinking your body will be sufficient for that. Oh...my cell phone didn't survive the knockdown...sniff.


(Download)

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Sep 15, 2017 13:45:23   #
Selene03
 
nikonbrain wrote:
You may think this sounds crazy but it works , we live in Florida and there are a lot of lakes here with beautiful cypress trees in water . To do HDRI we came up with a way. This only works in shallow water . Go to Home Depot they sell adjustable pool cleaning handles about 12 feet long or longer the inside diameter perfectly fits the inside shaft of a old Bogen tripod when slid inside nice tight fit . Put your favorite head on it and go shooting , when you find your shot in shallow water stick the monopod in the mud adjust height anchor boat at both ends you have a stable platform for HDRI .It works , you may have to make an adapter for "your head" I use the inside shaft of a Bogen 3021 fits perfectly .I do suppose you could put two shaft together for deeper water.
You may think this sounds crazy but it works , we ... (show quote)


An interesting solution, I have used my camera in my kayak a lot in marshes. I usually just try to keep the shutter speed up and have kept IS on and had pretty good luck, the biggest problem is keeping the kayak where I want it because of wind and currents. The water in the marshes is pretty shallow and it is only doable during high tide. This could actual work. Does having the monopod in the mud work at all like an anchor of sorts, so that the kayak would kind of rotate around the contraption?

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Sep 15, 2017 13:47:54   #
drbland42 Loc: Chad, Africa and Okla
 
Hand hold but with a moderate heavy tripod attached not letting it hit the boat. Works almost like a gyroscope and you legs as stabilizer. I have done that and worked pretty good off the coast of Florida in a small boat.

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Sep 15, 2017 13:49:04   #
bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
Tikva wrote:
I will be going out on Lake Michigan and the Milwaukee River this Sat. I have a Nikon D500 and am wondering what is the best way to stabilize my camera while on the boat. Any suggestions appreciated. I do have a camera shop in town that might have what I need, but I don't know what I need.


Unless you use an expensive image stabilizer, your body is the best stabilizer on a boat. When someone gets their "sea legs", it means that their body automatically moves in a manner that keeps it vertical regardless of the angle of the deck. The attached night photo of the Rock of Gibraltar was taken from the deck of a ferryboat with my handheld Nikon D800 and an AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8E ED Lens at ISO 6400, f2.8, 1/10 second with lens stabilization turned on.






(Download)

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Sep 15, 2017 14:16:21   #
PhotoJohnC
 
I do that all the time here in Maine with my 80-400 zoom. Kick up the ISO to 800 to get a fast shutter speed, make sure VR (vibeation reduction) is on, keep the camera strap around your neck so better yet get a special strap that screws into the tripod hole. All that and you can and must hand hold the camera.
John F.

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Sep 15, 2017 14:40:42   #
aellman Loc: Boston MA
 
Tikva wrote:
I will be going out on Lake Michigan and the Milwaukee River this Sat. I have a Nikon D500 and am wondering what is the best way to stabilize my camera while on the boat. Any suggestions appreciated. I do have a camera shop in town that might have what I need, but I don't know what I need.


I agree with the masses on this. Highest shutter speed possible, long lenses will make
your challenge greater, and keep your neck strap on to prevent the camera from hitting
the deck or other hard object or going to the bottom of the lake. You can check how
you're doing by reviewing the image on the LCD screen full frame and zoomed into a
closeup to check focus and motion blur. Best of luck >Alan

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Sep 15, 2017 14:44:05   #
aellman Loc: Boston MA
 
bpulv wrote:
Unless you use an expensive image stabilizer, your body is the best stabilizer on a boat. When someone gets their "sea legs", it means that their body automatically moves in a manner that keeps it vertical regardless of the angle of the deck. The attached night photo of the Rock of Gibraltar was taken from the deck of a ferryboat with my handheld Nikon D800 and an AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8E ED Lens at ISO 6400, f2.8, 1/10 second with lens stabilization turned on.


Beautiful shot, but the OP needs to bear in mind that his small boat is
going to be a LOT less stable than a ferry boat. It will be bouncing all
over the place at the mercy of even modest wave action. >Alan

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Sep 15, 2017 15:54:40   #
mffox Loc: Avon, CT
 
If you have a monopod, collapse it down to a length that will allow you to tuck the bottom end into your waistband while hand-holding the camera at eye level. It's not perfect but a bit more stable than hand-held. Works for me!!

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Sep 15, 2017 16:00:35   #
bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
aellman wrote:
Beautiful shot, but the OP needs to bear in mind that his small boat is
going to be a LOT less stable than a ferry boat. It will be bouncing all
over the place at the mercy of even modest wave action. >Alan


Yes, and I sail too. But on nothing over 26'. I have also handheld my camera with a 300mm non-stabilized lens in moderately heavy alaska seas on small motorboats and using high ISO and shutter speed has always worked well.

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Sep 15, 2017 17:39:46   #
skywolf
 
I just spent a week near Ely, Minnesota on Moose Lake, half fishing, half photographing eagles and other birds with a Nikon D7100 and a Tamron 150-600 lens in a 16' fishing boat. Maybe 30% of what I shot was good. I advise: Shoot at a fast shutter speed and high aperture (which also requires a high ISO). Steady up as much as possible, and shoot at least three rapid-fire shots of every subject. Even in a boat at anchor, the waves will move you to the point that you have trouble getting the focus mark on your subject. Good luck and overshoot like hell!

Tikva wrote:
I will be going out on Lake Michigan and the Milwaukee River this Sat. I have a Nikon D500 and am wondering what is the best way to stabilize my camera while on the boat. Any suggestions appreciated. I do have a camera shop in town that might have what I need, but I don't know what I need.

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Sep 15, 2017 19:19:39   #
PAR4DCR Loc: A Sunny Place
 
As many members have already said, high shutter speed (1/1000) and use the VR on your lens.

Don

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Sep 18, 2017 14:23:04   #
SDigger
 
I posted twice, somehow. Whoops and apologies!

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Sep 18, 2017 14:42:06   #
SDigger
 
I was wanting to make some photographs while solo sailing my Catalina 25. A little motion helps convey the movement, so I do not see why everything has to be static. Anyway, I configured a clamp from the workshop with a long bolt and a ball head and a couple of scrap blocks to protect the gelcoat. It could be made more secure by mounting the head on the jaws of the clamp reducing the sway possibility. I haven't used it in strong winds or big waves. Canyon Lake in Texas doesn't produce very many large swells, at least when I am out, so blur hasn't been a problem. Oh, I am using a remote shutter control.

I'm not sure what your are trying to photograph, but as far as motion gores, check out Ernst Haas' photography. He was shooting with Kodachrome ASA (ISO) 12!


https://www.shutterbug.com/content/how-pioneering-photographer-ernst-haas-changed-photo-world-burst-color





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