CYMK
Sep 14, 2017 08:31:26 #
I got a new cymk Epson printer, it's an all in one so I don't expect the greatest results, but the printed copies are all darker than the ones on the monitor.Is this something that can be fixed by calibrating one or the other, or does it have to do with RGB v. CYMK? I may be able to save the RAW edited file to CYMK, I haven't tried that yet, hoping to get some direction from the hog first. I normally use Shutterfly, and sending them a jpeg is reproduced fine.
Thanks
Thanks
Sep 14, 2017 08:41:54 #
Keep in mind that when you are looking at a photo on a monitor it's back lit and will always appear brighter than a photograph on paper which is lit from light reflection. I use a Canon pro 100 and in any form I generally have to adjust brightness up 1-3 stops according to the picture to get it to look like the screen.
Sep 14, 2017 08:52:21 #
Too me there should not be "much" darker than they look on the monitor. Try over lightening the original and print it to see what you get. There are a lot of conversations (blogs) out there about RGB vs CYMK. Read some of them and see if they help. When you convert a scanned document to a word doc using Adobe pro not everything converts like you want. Similar the colors in Adobe Photoshop does not always convert perfectly to the settings in your Epson printer. Hope this helps.
Sep 14, 2017 08:54:01 #
MichaelH
Loc: NorCal via Lansing, MI
WayneT wrote:
Keep in mind that when you are looking at a photo on a monitor it's back lit and will always appear brighter than a photograph on paper which is lit from light reflection. I use a Canon pro 100 and in any form I generally have to adjust brightness up 1-3 stops according to the picture to get it to look like the screen.
I agree with this assessment. If your only issue is the brightness, try using the brightness control on your monitor to lower its brightness and dim the lights in the room to compensate. Test using this setup and send prints to the printer and then view these prints in bright ambient light. You will get a feel for how much "lighter" the image needs to be for the print to look right. Calibration is usually for when the color is "off". Good luck.
Sep 14, 2017 09:54:43 #
WayneT wrote:
Keep in mind that when you are looking at a photo on a monitor it's back lit and will always appear brighter than a photograph on paper which is lit from light reflection. I use a Canon pro 100 and in any form I generally have to adjust brightness up 1-3 stops according to the picture to get it to look like the screen.
I agree. My monitor allows 7 different settings. I set one of these to the darkest it would go. I go to this setting when processing an image for print and I still need to remember to lighten the image about 2/3 of a stop before printing. I hope that someday there will be a way around this as I keep the original file for viewing on the monitor or web and then another file for the 'print' copy. double the storage requirement.
Sep 14, 2017 10:34:09 #
Linary
Loc: UK
dieseldave wrote:
I got a new cymk Epson printer, it's an all in one so I don't expect the greatest results, but the printed copies are all darker than the ones on the monitor.Is this something that can be fixed by calibrating one or the other, or does it have to do with RGB v. CYMK? I may be able to save the RAW edited file to CYMK, I haven't tried that yet, hoping to get some direction from the hog first. I normally use Shutterfly, and sending them a jpeg is reproduced fine.
Thanks
Thanks
Are you actually sending CMYK images to your inkjet printer? Not knowing which printer have, normally the printer driver will do any necessary conversion, and if converting from CMYK to CMYK the result will certainly be darker - probably muddier colours.
Most Epson printers (I say most in case someone finds a model that has to be different) need RGB input. the following paragraph is copied from the Epson website:
Inkjet printers are RGB devices
In general inkjet printers are RGB devices; even if they use cyan, magenta, yellow and black ink for printing. Therefore send an image file that is in a RGB colour space to your Epson inkjet printer driver. The Epson inkjet printer driver will follow your driver settings to convert the image data from RGB to CMYK values and will calculate how much ink of the up to 8 inks is needed to reproduce any CMYK value. The driver takes also into account the media type you use. Generally RC based photo paper can have more ink on its surface than plain paper before ink is blurring.
http://esupport.epson-europe.com/ViewArticle.aspx?lng=ro-RO&kbid=311250&data=FCFfEfoyEiHi0+huGh3ui5qUUhujlj5V&cl=1
Sep 15, 2017 05:02:14 #
Sep 15, 2017 06:21:28 #
This is what I do to compensate (when necessary)...using Photoshop, create a new layer (obviously make active)>set blend mode to screen for that layer>set opacity to about 20-25%,(starting point)... print, adjust opacity as needed...it's called making a test print. Most fear the loss of ink and paper, (yet we spend thousands on equipment) if that's the case...make a small 4x6 test print first for evaluation on the same type paper.
BTW, keep that layer and name it "For Printing" turn it off for monitor viewing.
BTW, keep that layer and name it "For Printing" turn it off for monitor viewing.
Sep 15, 2017 06:50:43 #
johnst1001a
Loc: West Chester, Ohio
I have the opposite issue, pictures that I print are too bright and lose contrast vs what is on my monitor. I use the compensation sliders, but never really get the quality of picture I see on the screen. So, since I am only a hobbyist, and print pictures of grand kids etc., I can deal with a slightly off picture. I have calibrated the monitor and printer, but that did not really solve the issue. Now, here is part of the problem from learnings. First, for best results, get the brand paper that matched your printer. Canon paper for Canon printers. Same for inks, third party inks may not work as well as OEM inks. I used third party quite a bit as the cost of ink is so darn expensive.
If I need a print that better matches what I see on the monitor, I have it printed at Walgreens or Costco. Their printers are far better than mine.
I have a canon MX922. I also have an HP 8700, which is a much better printer, but not really that good for 4x6's. As I don't use it that often my ink dries up.
If I need a print that better matches what I see on the monitor, I have it printed at Walgreens or Costco. Their printers are far better than mine.
I have a canon MX922. I also have an HP 8700, which is a much better printer, but not really that good for 4x6's. As I don't use it that often my ink dries up.
Sep 15, 2017 07:21:16 #
Wow! Lots of terrible advice here so far.
Printers are generally close to a color standard, usually sRGB, and an industry wide standard brightness. The easiest way to deal with printers without resorting to creating a custom profile for every type of paper you use in it is to use OEM inks and paper. It won't be perfect but it will be very close.
However, displays are often not calibrated and profiled for photo editing - they are adjusted to look amazing when viewing movies and graphics in a brightly lit room or office. Such is the nature of the beast.
The correct way to fix this is to profile the display using a Datacolor Spyder, or Xrite ColorMunki or i1 Display Pro (if it is a Dell or similar display with a hardware programmable LUT), and use a white clipping point of 80 candelas per meter squared (cd/m^2) as a starting point. This will bring down the display brightness considerably from the 120 to 140 that displays are often set up with at the factory. Lowering the brightness on the display will help you because it will compel you to edit the image brighter. This image can be printed on any printer, or by any lab, and you will get similar results. simply raising the brightness of the image in post processing will also raise the black point, and you will get a lighter image but it will lack true black and likely have low contrast.
Properly profiling your display, using the paper and ink suggested by the manufacturer, and using the mfgr's suggested print settings will pretty much eliminate this problem. Any other approach will be hit or miss and is destined to waste ink and paper, since what may work for one print may not work for another.
Printers are generally close to a color standard, usually sRGB, and an industry wide standard brightness. The easiest way to deal with printers without resorting to creating a custom profile for every type of paper you use in it is to use OEM inks and paper. It won't be perfect but it will be very close.
However, displays are often not calibrated and profiled for photo editing - they are adjusted to look amazing when viewing movies and graphics in a brightly lit room or office. Such is the nature of the beast.
The correct way to fix this is to profile the display using a Datacolor Spyder, or Xrite ColorMunki or i1 Display Pro (if it is a Dell or similar display with a hardware programmable LUT), and use a white clipping point of 80 candelas per meter squared (cd/m^2) as a starting point. This will bring down the display brightness considerably from the 120 to 140 that displays are often set up with at the factory. Lowering the brightness on the display will help you because it will compel you to edit the image brighter. This image can be printed on any printer, or by any lab, and you will get similar results. simply raising the brightness of the image in post processing will also raise the black point, and you will get a lighter image but it will lack true black and likely have low contrast.
Properly profiling your display, using the paper and ink suggested by the manufacturer, and using the mfgr's suggested print settings will pretty much eliminate this problem. Any other approach will be hit or miss and is destined to waste ink and paper, since what may work for one print may not work for another.
Sep 15, 2017 07:40:45 #
Agree first simple step is to check how you have the brightness set. If that is not the issue do a monitor calibration.
Sep 15, 2017 07:50:11 #
This a very common problem with all printers. Most people keep their monitor settings on the brightest projection--very helpful when finding defects to edit out or correct. And most people do not want to operate in a graphics cave setting.
Always use RGB for maximum color space and print in RGB mode. CYMK should only be used for commercial printers using printing plates.
Knowing every printer is going to print darker than the monitor, make a new layer in Photoshop. Under "mode" select screen. This will produce an image 1 f-stop brighter than the original. Back that adjustment off 50%-60% with the slider and you will produce a perfect print every time. I have a 24" Epson, 48" Epson and Canon 17" Laser--works for all three. Best to run a small test print before wasting a lot of paper and ink.
Always use RGB for maximum color space and print in RGB mode. CYMK should only be used for commercial printers using printing plates.
Knowing every printer is going to print darker than the monitor, make a new layer in Photoshop. Under "mode" select screen. This will produce an image 1 f-stop brighter than the original. Back that adjustment off 50%-60% with the slider and you will produce a perfect print every time. I have a 24" Epson, 48" Epson and Canon 17" Laser--works for all three. Best to run a small test print before wasting a lot of paper and ink.
Sep 15, 2017 07:53:28 #
Correction: Make a duplicate image layer and select "screen" for mode.
Sep 15, 2017 08:06:45 #
Brent Rowlett wrote:
This a very common problem with all printers. Mos... (show quote)
Brent, thank you for that idea, I will give it a try today. If for no other reason than curiosity. As I posted earlier I work with a monitor set at its lowest brightness and it is still too bright. (Asus PA248Q calibrated with Spyder 5) This is worth a look if it will eliminate the guess work
Sep 15, 2017 08:24:34 #
Being in flexible packaging and designing packaging for the food and medical industry, I have 35 years experience with Lithography, Flexography, Silk Screen, and Rotogravure printing.
In so much as most images are on line today anyway, I like to edit images for maximum impact on that medium first.
I have all the X-Rite calibration tools which are a pain in the ass to use, especially when your customers have cheap monitors and do not have a clue about calibration.
What I gave you is the quick fix to your problem that I use always before printing. Reflective inks will never be as vibrant and bright as your backlit monitor image.
Remember to run small test prints so you know how much to back off your screen adjustment of the original image for best results. You can also learn to use these adjustments, mask them with black mask, and paint in areas that you wish to brighten with the white brush tool.
In so much as most images are on line today anyway, I like to edit images for maximum impact on that medium first.
I have all the X-Rite calibration tools which are a pain in the ass to use, especially when your customers have cheap monitors and do not have a clue about calibration.
What I gave you is the quick fix to your problem that I use always before printing. Reflective inks will never be as vibrant and bright as your backlit monitor image.
Remember to run small test prints so you know how much to back off your screen adjustment of the original image for best results. You can also learn to use these adjustments, mask them with black mask, and paint in areas that you wish to brighten with the white brush tool.
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