Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Your initial instinct was correct. Bounce would have been the most flattering. I don't care for the harshness of GF's devices, though the can work ok in a small room with a card blocking the side of the globe that faces the subject(s).

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Sure... I saw the EXIF data.

However, UHH answers are consumed by many others who are interested in solving the same problems. It's helpful them to frame answers as case statements, and to define situations where the "rules" break down. This is a learning community, more than just a many-to-one help desk.

The number of UHH readers with FF gear is small, compared with APS-C. I remember my early experience switching from 35mm film to APS-C (DX Nikon). It took some trial and error to realize that I needed to apply the crop factor.

Incidentally, the rule of thumb is just a guide. It's based on a "full sensor," uncropped print, 3:2 aspect ratio, 12" wide by 8" high (or an 8x10 cropped from the whole height of that). Results vary widely.

Add some form of image stabilization, and you'll need to change it dramatically.

Use the right mirrorless camera, and you may gain half a stop (no mirror bounce, no shutter shock from an electronic shutter).

Enlarge to 24x16 or 20x16, and you'll need a speed one to two stops faster, depending on content.

Crop out an 8x10 from the center of a 24x16 area, and you need at least two stops faster shutter speed...

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

"Add some form of image stabilization, and you'll need to change it dramatically. "

While this may hold true for static subjects, it doesn't apply when your subjects are mobile.

lwerthe1mer Loc: Birmingham, Alabama

FYI, image stabilization was turned on when I took the blurry photos which initiated this discussion. How would image stabilization change the camera settings? I guess the shutter speed could be slower. Other than that, what changes would be necessary?

I have had my full frame a7ii for a little more than a year. I'm going back to the beginning, studying camera settings and relearning everything because of my shift from ASP-C sensor to full frame.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

It wouldn't change camera settings, it's just that stabilization won't help if there is any subject movement (blinking for instance). If anything, the shutter speed should have been faster. Maybe bump the ISO up to compensate.

lwerthe1mer Loc: Birmingham, Alabama

This lengthy discussion highlights the complexity of photography, the importance of technique and knowing your camera and our mutual agreement that better cameras will not produce better photos without good technique.

Silverman Loc: Michigan

Possibly raise your Shutter speed, if not, use a tripod.

krashdragon

I'll bet your "knowledgeable" photographer was guessing.. as I am...that a lot of flash photography makes "red eye" photos... And that he really is giving advice based on cheap point and shoot cameras.
You're awesome to start over and learn how your camera works. Good luck and happy flashing...errr...shooting....ok....photos!

lwerthe1mer Loc: Birmingham, Alabama

I don't understand the advice of the "knowledgeable" photographer who worked at BestBuy and recommended that I not purchase a flash for my shoot. He knew I had a Sony a7ii. He sounded knowledgeable, and I followed his advice and tried to take photos with my 35mm 2.8 lens. Admittedly I wasn't following accepted techniques to steady my camera, but I would have had a much easier time with a flash.

Diverhank

A lot of "photographers" I know hate flash. This photographer probably is one of them. It's easy to hate flash if you don't know what you're doing - you'd get the overexposed, harsh look that's horrible. The secret in using flash is to bounce or get it off the camera (and bounce) AND not to use too much flash. The preferred mix between ambient light and flash light should be no more than 75/25%. To keep it simple, under expose the shot maximum 2 stops then use flash to fill in that 2 stops...Doing this, one can't tell whether flash has been used...You would have succeeded if without exif they can't tell you have used flash...Incidentally the Gary Fong that you have is a great bouncer - you waste a lot of light but then rechargeable batteries last all night and they're cheap. I have a number of flash diffusers including Gary Fong...it's silly looking but it works better than most others. When people give me a hard time for using it, I often joked that it doubles as my salad bowl...

lwerthe1mer Loc: Birmingham, Alabama

Without a flash, I would have had to use a tripod, and tripods don't work well shooting a party of 40-50 ladies. I believe I needed a flash to shoot the party.

Charles P Loc: Southern Central NY State

I use the Gary Fong Lightsphere in bounce position a lot for indoor shots. I love the soft diffused light and the resulting images that I get with it. As you say, if you have a powerful flash and use good high mAh rechargeable batteries, there is really no wasted light. It's just a different kind of light, the kind that you need to make some great indoor images.

Dun1 Loc: Atlanta, GA

Camera shake seems to be the culprit. The Sony a7ii has 5 axis image stabilization which might be a cure for camera movement errors. Increasing the ISO and shutter speed should eliminate the blurry photo problem.

Dun1 Loc: Atlanta, GA

An edit of the first shot using Photoshop Shake reduction sharpening, as well at a Topaz Denoise to remove some of the noise in the photo