Landscape and Lightmeters.
Does anyone use a light meter for landscapes .
Seen some stuff on the Sekonic website making great claims . It did occur to me that my camera has a built in spot meter . So I could use it to spotmeter the highlights and shadows to make the exposure fit the histogram. Going to give that a go tomorrow.
Interested to hear the view of you Hoggers.
I am a Londoner and a lifelong supporter of West Ham United , a football (soccer) team in East London , currently at the bottom of the Premier League.
Q. What do you say to a Hammers supporter with a beautiful girl on his arm .
A. Nice tattoo.
I have a Sekonic 758dr and it does what it says. You can get a very nice one here in the US on eBay for half what a new one costs with a little looking. It is a very good tool especially if you profile it to your camera.
Best,
Todd Ferguson
always use a gossen luna pro for my landscapes, simply because it will read light up to 24 hours.
Thanks, will look on Ebay in the USA, saw none on the UK site.
Had never even head of that so thanks will have a look.
If I am unsure of the exposure, I use my camera's Program mode to record what Nikon thinks is the perfect exposure. I transfer the settings into manual mode using the Mark 1 Brain Memory device, and adjust exposure compensation from there.
I've been using (off and on) a Pentax digital spot meter for over 30 years. It is a wonderful piece of equipment that is still available used in the 250-300 dollar range. the digital out put makes it quick and painless to work with.
Rich1939 wrote:
I've been using (off and on) a Pentax digital spot meter for over 30 years. It ids a wonderful piece of equipment that is still available used in the 250-300 dollar range. the digital out put makes it quick and painless to work with.
Yup that was also the price when it was new back in the days. The Pentax digital spot meter doesn't lose value. In fact if not accounting for inflation the price now used is higher.
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
Hammer wrote:
Does anyone use a light meter for landscapes .
Seen some stuff on the Sekonic website making great claims . It did occur to me that my camera has a built in spot meter . So I could use it to spotmeter the highlights and shadows to make the exposure fit the histogram. Going to give that a go tomorrow.
Interested to hear the view of you Hoggers.
I am a Londoner and a lifelong supporter of West Ham United , a football (soccer) team in East London , currently at the bottom of the Premier League.
Q. What do you say to a Hammers supporter with a beautiful girl on his arm .
A. Nice tattoo.
Does anyone use a light meter for landscapes . br... (
show quote)
You do something similar to what I do. I measure the highlights that are important to me, then add 1 to 1-1/3 stop more exposure to the setting, not worrying too much about the darkest shadows. Blown highlights are to be avoided at all costs. If the luminance range is too wide, then I may opt to do an HDR.
If I didn't use the in camera spot meter, I'd use a hand-held one in pretty much the same manner.
G Brown
Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK
Landscapes are by definition 'distant'. Unless you are shooting high contrast then the light is generally 'averaged out'. I tend to use a low ISO and use whatever aperture mode my camera dictates with the dof I want. By shooting Raw I can tweek any problem areas if required.
Unfortunately, most landscape images are post processed beyond what is captured by the beginner, or are taken with a variety of filters. THIS is rarely acknowledged. Especially when one is trying to sell something or show 'how clever a photographer' you are.
If you switch your camera to Auto it will read the 'reflected or ambient average light' just as a light meter will. Then it is up to you to decide how to capture a 'less average' image. A graduated or polarising filter defines cloud and adds a certain amount of saturation to colours. Warming (adding red) or cooling (adding blue) in curves can change 'daylight' to morning or evening. etc.
Landscapes are as complicated as great portraiture so only buy kit when you know exactly 'why' you need it.
have fun
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
If I am unsure of the exposure, I use my camera's Program mode to record what Nikon thinks is the perfect exposure. I transfer the settings into manual mode using the Mark 1 Brain Memory device, and adjust exposure compensation from there.
Still on the Mark I???????
Brain rumors sites say the mark II is coming soon. I hope you have the wherewithal and will to upgrade.
Myself, I'm still on the pre-release version and refuse to change.
This sounds like a very good idea which I will try today. Only problem is that brain memory (Rel 1.2) does not seem to function very well these days, sadly in need of a total reset.
Thanks, that answers the question really . Why but another meter when you already have on in the camera. For flash I can understand but could not understand how the handheld light meter has any benefits over the one in the camera.
Hi,
Your comment about buying kit is very true but I have to admit that GAS has afflicted me but I am having therapy. I watch my soccer team and go into deep depression , that deflects the GAS. Will try your suggestions and avoid the attack , many thanks .
I went for the upgrade but it could not be installed, too much rubbish in the empty space .
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