Noise canin7d mark ii
Aug 5, 2017 20:14:38 #
This camera is awful ISO can any recommend a decent software that would help with noise? Thank you
donna
donna
Aug 5, 2017 20:42:44 #
jdubu
Loc: San Jose, CA
That's a pretty broad statement without any information why you have ISO and noise issues... like a photo illustrating the noise with camera settings you used?
I have had a few generations of Canon bodies, including the 7D MKII, and only have issues with noise when I push the settings beyond camera capabilities and create noise. As to denoise programs, Lightroom, DXO, Topaz, On1, there are myriad choices at all price points. Since you accuse the camera of awful ISO, I cannot think what denoise program you would consider decent, since many users consider it more than decent. Google has discontinued support of NIK, but it's free and has some nice software for as long as it's computer compatible.
I have had a few generations of Canon bodies, including the 7D MKII, and only have issues with noise when I push the settings beyond camera capabilities and create noise. As to denoise programs, Lightroom, DXO, Topaz, On1, there are myriad choices at all price points. Since you accuse the camera of awful ISO, I cannot think what denoise program you would consider decent, since many users consider it more than decent. Google has discontinued support of NIK, but it's free and has some nice software for as long as it's computer compatible.
Aug 5, 2017 20:51:43 #
I use a 7DII quite a bit. I overexpose my pictures by about 1/3 to 1/2 of a stop. It's called shooting TTR (to the right). That will cut down on a lot of the noise. Also, try to keep your ISO at 400 or less. Noise is at is worst when a photo is somewhat underexposed. Also the shadows and dark areas show the heaviest amount of noise. If you can shoot with your ISO around 100 or 200, you'll notice a big improvement.
The software that I often use to help reduce noise is Topaz DeNoise 6. I ordered it online, and it is a plug in with Photoshop CC 2017. Topaz DeNoise 6 can also be use by itself, as a stand alone program (separate from Photoshop). I load my photos from my camera into Lightroom directly off of my compact flash card, and I really like the noise reduction program that Lightroom offers. If I don't get the results I desire from Lightroom, then I send my photos to Topaz DeNoise 6. After all the above is done, I send my images to Photoshop for any finishing up work that is necessary.
The software that I often use to help reduce noise is Topaz DeNoise 6. I ordered it online, and it is a plug in with Photoshop CC 2017. Topaz DeNoise 6 can also be use by itself, as a stand alone program (separate from Photoshop). I load my photos from my camera into Lightroom directly off of my compact flash card, and I really like the noise reduction program that Lightroom offers. If I don't get the results I desire from Lightroom, then I send my photos to Topaz DeNoise 6. After all the above is done, I send my images to Photoshop for any finishing up work that is necessary.
Aug 5, 2017 20:55:40 #
Please give us a bit more information (and perhaps a picture). The 7D mkII is a very competent camera, and should be usable without excessive noise up to ISO 3200-6400 (minimum). If you regularly shoot at high ISOs, you may want to use one of the noise reduction aps mentioned above and/or go to full frame. All that assumes that you shoot raw and expose correctly... this body is not ISO invariant, so underexposing and bringing up in post is not a good strategy - I'd suggest exposing as far to the right as possible without blowing out your highlights. Make sense?
Aug 5, 2017 21:01:37 #
Lame-Duck wrote:
I use a 7DII quite a bit. I overexpose my pictures... (show quote)
Thanks, I shoot birds in flight and need a fast shutter so that's why I need high ISO also use light room
Aug 5, 2017 21:02:49 #
MS. DONNA wrote:
Thanks, I shoot birds in flight and need a fast shutter so that's why I need high ISO also use light room
What ISO do you normally shoot at?
Aug 5, 2017 21:04:58 #
TriX wrote:
Please give us a bit more information (and perhaps... (show quote)
I shoot birds in flight, just starting out I need a fast shutter speed. Birds in Florida. I could use my full frame but the crop sensor gives me more length yes I shoot raw Will try over exsposre tomorrow and see how it goes. This type of shooting is very new to me
Thank you for your input
Aug 5, 2017 21:06:01 #
TriX wrote:
What ISO do you normally shoot at?
For birds in flight I use ISO 2000 so I can get a fast shutter speed
Aug 5, 2017 21:06:23 #
Aug 5, 2017 21:23:47 #
I shoot a 7D mk II fairly often, mainly wildlife, and I don't find it to be all that noisy and the noise is easily removed in post processing. Based on your original posting, could at least some of the problem be user related?!
Aug 5, 2017 21:25:42 #
MS. DONNA wrote:
For birds in flight I use ISO 2000 so I can get a fast shutter speed
MS. DONNA...With my 7DII, I would definitely have a good deal of noise at an ISO of 2000. As a general rule, with my 7DII, I'm shooting BIF at 1/1600 sec, F/4 up to F/5.6 and an ISO of 400 (up to 800 on rare occasions). I really prefer to shoot BIF with a full frame body and in that way I can crank up the ISO without having objectionable noise.
Aug 5, 2017 21:41:26 #
MS. DONNA wrote:
For birds in flight I use ISO 2000 so I can get a fast shutter speed
Understood. I shoot FF now (for high ISO, low noise), but I previously shot a 7D, and did not find the noise objectionable until I was over ISO 1600 in low light. The 7D2 is probably a stop better, so I would think ISO 3200 would be usable with some noise reduction SW utilized. However, I'd be surprised if you need to go that high, even at say 1/1250 or 1/2000. Take a look at your histogram, and make sure you're exposing as far to the right as possible without blowing highlights. Your histogram should be all the way to the right, and typically, if shooting raw, you might want to expose a stop more, but you need to experiment to see how far you can go without blowing highlights on your particular body. Why not bracket your "correct" exposure using auto bracketing, perhaps 0, 1/2, 1 and 1-1/2 stop overexposed and after comparing, see how far you can go. You definitely do not want to underexpose if noise is an issue for you - you want to push your exposure right up to the edge without blowing highlights.
Aug 5, 2017 21:44:57 #
MS. DONNA wrote:
Thanks, I shoot birds in flight and need a fast shutter so that's why I need high ISO also use light room
I use a 7D2(actually have 2)and shoot BIF over at Merritt Island NWR, and usually use an ISO between 400 and 800. In decent light, this will generally allow me a shutterspeed of 1/1000sec +, and F/ in the 8-11 range-using a Sigma 150-600mm. I shot this morning at ISO 2000 at the convention center in ORL with very nice results. I'd be inclined to believe you need to look your settings again.
Aug 5, 2017 21:59:36 #
7D mark ll for BIF I try to keep my ISO between 200-800. Aperture at 5.6 T is 1000-1600. Have very little issue with noise.
Aug 5, 2017 22:06:17 #
Lame-Duck wrote:
MS. DONNA...With my 7DII, I would definitely have a good deal of noise at an ISO of 2000. As a general rule, with my 7DII, I'm shooting BIF at 1/1600 sec, F/4 up to F/5.6 and an ISO of 400 (up to 800 on rare occasions). I really prefer to shoot BIF with a full frame body and in that way I can crank up the ISO without having objectionable noise.
Same here. Every draws "the line" at a different place, but the quality of the image with an ISO greater than 640 is not acceptable to me with the 7DII for an image where I'm looking for detail. At 640, Topaz DeNoise does a very good job of cleaning up noise.
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