bobgreen Loc: Maryland

After many years removed from owning a Dslr, I recently purchased a d7100, and several lenses, a 50mm 1.8, an 85mm 1.8, and an 18-70 zoom. I love the first two lens . Time and experience will tell me if I need both.. The 18-70 is so so. Not bad not great. One of my lessons learned though is that my hands are much shakier now in my advancing years. At some point, I need to upgrade to a lens with image stabilization. Ideas to help my shooting technique would be helpful. Mono and tripod only?

Another lesson- the 18mm isn't wide enough so I'll be looking for an ultra wide zoom. The Nikons are too expensive. Suggestions? Currently thinking Sigma 10-20, Tokina 11-20, or Tokina 12-24.

Last lesson- I know I'll need a longer lens , a zoom. I know stabilization is a MUST. I'm thinking 70-300 Nikon but appreciate suggestions/advice.

Bonus question - I now wear glasses and have found I have to concentrate more looking through the viewfinder. I use progressive lens . Any ideas to help ? Eyecup?

I shoot outdoors almost exclusively - landscapes, close-ups, some wildlife (hopefully ).

Sorry to be long winded.

BebuLamar

I learned my lesson too! I learned that in trying to get close with a long lens I never have lens long enough. So I learned to not rely on long lenses. I learned to find subjects that are suited for the lenses I have rather than pursuing subjects that are impossible with the equipment I have. I learned that the novelty of an ultrawide angle lens wears out quick.

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

The other alternative to buying VR lenses is just to use higher shutter speeds. You probably can't get away with the 1/focal length guideline for motion free shutter speeds any more, so go one or two steps higher. The 7100 has great high ISO performance, so just go up on that and you can use higher shutter speeds.

btbg

The third possible solution is to shoot on a tripod and use a remote control. That will completely eliminate camera shake and save the expense of vr lenses.

I know, if you are a bird photographer and shoot birds in flight that may not work so well, but it is still an option.

As far as lenses, yes keep both your 50 1.8 and your 85. The 85 is great for portraiture and some kinds of landscape work and the 50 is good for all kinds of low light situations.

Einreb92 Loc: Philadelphia

I understand your situation in regards to equipment and choices. I can't add anything to the suggestions already made except to add I employ and enjoy my Tokina 11-20 very much for very specific and limited situations. It is very well controlled and gives me the width I like, when dealing with wide vistas. If I only had the ability to have three lens, I'm not sure it would be in my stable. Good luck finding your answer.

SusanFromVermont Loc: Southwest corner of Vermont

Can you return the 18-70mm or has it been too long, private sale, etc?

Shaky hands - faster shutter speeds and/or tripod with remote release. I have steady hands, and hold the camera properly, but for some reason have trouble getting sharp images hand-held. If a tripod is not convenient or not allowed, I make adjustments until the shutter speed is fast enough. A good tripod is expensive, but you want one that will properly support your camera and lens. Carbon fiber legs are better than the aluminum ones for not transmitting vibrations. For some good information on how to choose the right tripod for your height and support needs, go to the Really Right Stuff website. Their gear is top quality and so are their prices, but the information on their website is valuable and free!

Longer zoom lens - The Nikon 70-300mm lens is a decent lens as long as you do not need better light-gathering ability. The 70-200mm f/2.8 is a classic Nikon lens, being one of their "golden trio" of lenses. More expensive, and not as much reach as the 70-300, though.

Wearing glasses - I wear glasses - progressive lenses [no-line bifocals] and don't have trouble looking through the viewfinder. But if you have the transitions lenses which darken in bright sunlight, get a pair that does not have this feature. I have tried using lenses with transition feature and had a very hard time seeing through the viewfinder. Previously when I got glasses, I got one of each, and switched when out photographing. This year I got new glasses and only got the clear ones! If this is not the reason for your problem, you may want to switch to using Live View. Not so good in bright light, but Hoodman makes a device that covers the LCD screen and can be adjusted for your eyesight. I wear one on a cord around my neck so I can check my photos for exposure, etc. Also, I believe they make eye cups that can be attached over the viewfinder that are supposed to make it easier for people who wear glasses.

AK Grandpa Loc: Anchorage, AK

As far as ultra wides go . . . I've got the Tokina 11-16 and really like it . . . It is very sharp . . . I think the Tokina 11-20 should be a good one as well . . .

orrie smith Loc: Kansas

As far as lenses go, rent before you buy and you will not regret it. You will have the chance to see if the lens you desire is actually as desirable as they sound. As for your eyes, if they are not too bad, B&H Photo sell replacement eye cups that are magnified so people who wear glasses may be able to take the glasses off while shooting. I tried the large eye cups and was not happy, changed to the magnified replacements and am very satisfied.