I currently own a Nikon Coolpix P900. Bought it to have an all around, simple to use, nice camera with wifi capability.
I planned in using it to photograph the solar eclipse while mounted on equatorial mount....and in the future photographing stars and the solar system.
Did not realize that I needed a camera that shoots in RAW format which this one does not do (needed to overlay multiple photos for solar system type pix.)
I am now interested in getting a new camera, hopefully also a nikon so there's less of a learning curve for me.
I would then use the P900 to shoot my model(s) during the eclipse and use the new camera for shooting the actual eclipse.
Any advice on decent easy to use for these purposes, Nikons, not coolpix, and the necessary lens(es) would be greatly appreciated.
Below is the technical specs recommended by a longtime eclipse photographer MrEclipse....aka Fred Espenak
I am surprised that the P900 which is quite expensive doesn't shoot RAW.
D500, 200-500 F/5.6, 1.4 tele-converter and the appropriate nd filter.
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Hahaha...I see what you did there now that I looked up that camera.
Or D7200 with the 200-500 and ND filter.
I agree with D500 and the 200-500 lens , tele-converter and nd filter .
I feel you need about 16 steps for eclipse, just saying.
I feel you need about 16 steps for eclipse, just saying.
Being a total novice could you please explain what you mean by "16 steps." Don't feel like you have to give me a super long explanation...i would be happy if you gave me a brief version or a link to an explanation.
Thanks for the assistance
He or she means "16-stops" worth of light reduction. Basically, filter strength is often measured using the same "stops" that we refer to when setting a lens aperture... Filters reduce light by being dyed neutral gray... while lenses typically do so by closing down the aperture to a small size. However it's done, each full stop of light reduction permits half as much light to pass as the previous. So a "16-stop" filter is very strong, allowing only 1/32768 or about three tenths of one percent of light to pass through.
HOWEVER... standard ND filters are somewhat risky to use with an eclipse. YOU CAN DAMAGE YOUR CAMERA OR EVEN BLIND YOURSELF by not using proper filters to view an eclipse and there is a great deal of variation among standard ND.
FOR SAFETY'S SAKE A SPECIAL, CERTIFIED SOLAR FILTER IS VERY STRONGLY RECOMMENDED. Those are typically even stronger, about 18-stops worth.
Info about photographing an eclipse, with links to available solar filters, are here (and a whole lot of other places online):
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/how-photograph-solar-eclipse
Yup.ND filter does not have enough protection . One needsmuch more protection for the eclipse , until totality. Then you don't need a filter be very careful love your eyes and camera sensor See b and h photo
jon S wrote:
Yup.ND filter does not have enough protection . One needsmuch more protection for the eclipse , until totality. Then you don't need a filter be very careful love your eyes and camera sensor See b and h photo
And starting again immediately after.It is a very short period where you don't need a filter.
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Edia
Loc: Central New Jersey
It seems to me that buying a particular camera to shoot solar eclipses is counter productive. How many eclipses do you plan to shoot in the life of your camera? If you are determined to shoot an eclipse then rent the equipment you need. Keep your P900 for everything else.
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