dsiner wrote:
I have never used these but am thinking of it with a Sigma 100-400 on my D7200. What issues will I encounter? Autofocus? How many stops of light will I lose? And, does it degrade the image( I have read articles that say yes and no). Looking for real world experience. Thanks.
With a 1.4X teleconverter you lose one stop of light. With a 2X you lose two stops.
The only Sigma 100-400mm I'm aware of is f/6.3 at 400mm (where you are most likely to want to use a teleconverter). That 100-400mm f/5-6.3 will effectively become a 140-560mm f/7.1-9 with a 1.4X... or 200-800mm f/10-13 with a 2X.
You will probably lose autofocus. I don't use a D7200, but most cameras' autofocus is "iffy" at best at effective apertures less than f/8. Even in in ideal conditions, if your camera tries to autofocus it's likely to slow down and hunt a lot more. Manual focus also will probably be difficult because your viewfinder will dim down, too. It might be easier to use Live View to manually focus, but that's usually quite slow and can be difficult in brighter lighting conditions.
The teleconverters will also ALWAYS degrade image quality. Stronger 2X will degrade it a lot more than weaker 1.4X TCs. Just how much is very difficult to say.... Generally teleconverters work better with prime lenses, than they do with zooms. There are also a number of different teleconverters to choose among, which vary in their capabilities. The specific lens used with them can make a difference, too... And the Sigma 100-400mm that I'm aware of is a new, relatively untested and largely unreviewed model. A "matched" teleconverter can work pretty well... designed to complement a specific lens. AFAIK, there is no matched teleconverter for the 100-400mm.
How much loss and whether or not images will be acceptable and usable depends upon you and what you're trying to accomplish. I wouldn't expect too much with a relatively low cost zoom lens. Teleconverters generally are most useful with very high image quality, premium primes that can tolerate some loss of IQ and still produce usable images. Just to try to quantify it, 1.4X probably cost 5 to 10% image quality.... while 2X probably make for a 15 to 25% hit in IQ.
I use Canon gear... including their high quality 1.4X and 2X "II" Extenders. I use the 1.4X occasionally with 135mm f/2, 70-200mm f/2.8 and more frequently with 300mm f/4, 300mm f/2.8 and 500mm f/4 lenses. I only use the 2X with the 300mm f/2.8 and 500mm f/4. More recently I've gotten a Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6... which purportedly works pretty well with teleconverters. But I haven't really tried it very much yet.
Of course those Canon teleconverters won't work for you and I am less familiar with the Nikon system, but am pretty sure none of the Nikon teleconverters would work with an f/5-6.3 lens. There are Nikon lens/teleconverter charts online.... though they won't have info specific to a Sigma zoom. If you wanted to give a teleconverter a try, I'd recommend the Kenko "MC-4" 1.4X DGX that sells for about $120-130. It fits most lenses and supports autofocus as best as any of them. It's also quite sharp in the center, though less so in the corners and at the edges. Since your D7200 is a crop sensor/DX camera, it only uses the central portion of the image anyway, so this should be fine. The somewhat more expensive Kenko "Pro 300" 1.4X DGX (around $150) is more evenly sharp across the entire image, so might be a better choice for a full frame/FX camera.
But, there's bound to be some loss of image quality with any TC. So, all in all, your best bet would be to just use your feet, get closer and use the lens without any TC. Or, if you can't get closer, buy a Sigma (or Tamron) 150-600mm lens and use that. Longer focal lengths... whether a different lens or achieved with a teleconverter... are much harder to hold steady and more strongly influenced by various factors that make for reduced image quality. Some things you can overcome with techniques including a sturdy tripod or monopod, sandbag on camera and lens to dampen internal vibrations, remote release so you don't have to touch the camera, mirror lockup, etc.... Other things, such as wind causing camera shake or deterioration due to atmospheric conditions when you're shooting over a much greater distance, are largely beyond your control. All you can do is wait and hope for better conditions.