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May 16, 2017 11:30:50   #
RRS Loc: Not sure
 
dusmif wrote:
Thank you Gene51 for your reply and links, which I will look into later. I had a NikonD3300, which is small and the largest lens is a Nikon 55 to 3000, It is not my intention to spend a lot of money I have a very good solid tripod, but it is heavy to carry around, so I thought I get a lightweight one, after all I am 70years old. :-)
Cheers


Could you let me know where I can buy that Nikon 55 to 3000? I think I could make the change from Canon to Nikon for that set up.

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May 16, 2017 12:33:42   #
PGHphoto Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
 
dusmif wrote:
Can anyone suggest a good lightweight tripod to carry around during shoots please?
Thanks


K and F carbon tripods are sturdy, lightweight and won't break the bank. Most also can be easily converted to a monopod. The regular ball head is not great but more than adequate. And the money you save on the tripod can go to a better head !

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May 16, 2017 13:15:50   #
ken_stern Loc: Yorba Linda, Ca
 
tradio wrote:
If price is not an issue, look at Gitzo. You get what you pay for.


Actually all the advice is as usual spot-on --- However like the man said "you get what you pay for" --- Having owned one for the last 17 yrs ---- Gitzo is made for folks like myself that only want to purchase one Tripod in a lifetime

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May 16, 2017 13:57:40   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
Here are some things you'll need to determine and, in many cases, arrive at a compromise that works for you:

1. Weight capacity of tripod and head. How heavy is the heaviest gear you plan to use on it? Double or triple that, for best stability.
2. Weight of the tripod itself is sort of the corollary of it's capacity and size.
3. Working height. How tall do you need? Keep in mind that the head and camera itself add to tripod's height, and for best stability that it's best to not need to use a center column.
4. How compact do you need it to be for transport? The opposite of working height... also effected by the number of leg sections and the way the legs fold.
5. As few leg sections as possible for best stability. More sections means the lowest ones need to be fairly small diameter.
6. Leg locks. There are three types: lever, thumbscrew and twist. Twist are low profile and self-adjusting for wear. Lever type are the fastest to use.
7. Materials: carbon fiber has the best weight to strength ratio, plus it absorbs some vibrations that metal tripods transmit. But CF is more expensive than aluminum.
8. Cost: A lot of folks spend too little on a tripod and end up replacing it often, actually end up spending more than if they'd bought a better one to begin with.
9. A higher quality, more expensive tripod might last a lifetime and be more pleasurable to use, so may be more likely that you'll actually carry and use it.
10. Special features: some tripods have a removable leg to use as a monopod. Others have a center column that can rotate to horizontal or beyond for low level work.
11. More moving parts and special features might make for more wear and tear, add'l locks to remember to tighten, and may compromise stability.
12. Repairability. Are replacement parts available, if needed? Similarly, are accessories available to customize the tripod for your particular uses.
13. Separately purchasing leg set, head and any accessories lets you tailor the tripod to your needs. But, kits that include head, leg set and more can be better priced.
14. Head type: tilt-pan, fluid, ballhead. Tilt-pan generally are the more flexible, but most have protruding handles. Ballheads are the most compact. Fluid are have & used for video.
15. Quick release system: If you want to use a QR system, you'll may need to purchase additional plates for other cameras and lenses.
16. The Arca-Swiss QR system is the most universal... many manufacturers make heads, plates, etc. using it. Other QR systems are proprietary and may be more limiting.

B&H Photo has a good article and recommendations of travel tripods. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/travel-tripods Those tend to be lighter weight and more compact. Just be sure that the load capacity, working height and other factors are all things you can live with.

Personally I use three Gitzo "Series-3 Systematic" tripods. The "Systematic" series can be customized a number of ways. One of mine is set up for general purpose w/ballhead and a gimbal adapter, another for very low level macro or very high overhead work and the third is "big telephoto" dedicated, with a full size gimbal head. Even though they're carbon fiber, these are heavier than you'll need or want. But some of the gear I put on them weighs 10 or 12 lbs. If interested in Gitzo, I'd recommend that you look at the Series-2 if stability is a big concern... Or, check out Series-1 if light weight is your bigger concern and you can compromise a bit on stability. Gitzo "Traveler" and "Reporter" series are less customizable and rely more on a center column for adequate working height than the Systematics do.

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May 16, 2017 16:27:39   #
Independencenorm
 
I've used Bogen (Manfrotto) for years, both heavy duty and light weight. On a trip to Yosemite, in the Ansel Adams Gallery a young man showed me a MeFoto Travel Tripod/Monopod. When I came home to Independence I bought one and have used it extensively as both a tripod and more as a two piece monopod. I used it for my Nikon 500 and my Sony AX-53 4k camcorder. Using the top half of the monopod with my camcorder, it acted almost as a stabilizer, and I was able to hold it up and over the heads of a group in front of me.

Using it in the field with my Nikon, the bottom of the post has a retractable hook to fasten my bag to to weight it down.

I can also reverse the post and use it as a copy stand. I have had many tripods over the years, but this is the best design ever, and folds up so small for travel.

Well worth a look.

Norm in Independence,

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May 16, 2017 17:21:04   #
windwardbound
 
I found a light-weight inexpensive alternative to using my Gitzo/Really Right Stuff rig. I was told about and bought a Induro tripod (carbon fiber) and a Desmond Glow-55 head and love it. Make sure you end up with a tripod that DOES NOT have a center post (more stable for stills) and just choose the tripod that suits your needs. They make a few different models, I like the 4-5 foot ones. I'm not short but always seem to favor that perspective. My Gitzo/RRS rig cost me almost $2500, my Induro/Desmond D-Glow 55 rig was $500. I prefer the latter!!!!

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May 16, 2017 21:14:58   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
dusmif wrote:
Can anyone suggest a good lightweight tripod to carry around during shoots please?
Thanks


This is the one I have been recommending - https://www.amazon.com/Oben-CC-2381-3-Section-Carbon-Tripod/dp/B00D49WUIY

A little bit lighter duty than Gene's recommendation - but cheaper and goes higher ....

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May 16, 2017 21:18:47   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
windwardbound wrote:
Make sure you end up with a tripod that DOES NOT have a center post (more stable for stills) and just choose the tripod that suits your needs.


If you are a taller person, shoot birds, or airplanes - you will NEED the height that a centerpost provides without making a huge footprint !

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May 17, 2017 11:04:43   #
DaveyDitzer Loc: Western PA
 
I just received a Monfrotto "BeFree" tripod. It folds the legs up against the center column to make a compact package. I got the Aluminum one which was much less that the carbon fiber one. Al was ca. $150 and I recall the C4 was ca. $250, but much lighter of course. Go online to Monfrotto to see model line up.

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May 17, 2017 11:26:56   #
dusmif
 
DaveyDitzer wrote:
I just received a Monfrotto "BeFree" tripod. It folds the legs up against the center column to make a compact package. I got the Aluminum one which was much less that the carbon fiber one. Al was ca. $150 and I recall the C4 was ca. $250, but much lighter of course. Go online to Monfrotto to see model line up.


Thank You.

Reply
May 17, 2017 12:50:18   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
amfoto1 wrote:
Here are some things you'll need to determine and, in many cases, arrive at a compromise that works for you:

1. Weight capacity of tripod and head. How heavy is the heaviest gear you plan to use on it? Double or triple that, for best stability.
2. Weight of the tripod itself is sort of the corollary of it's capacity and size.
3. Working height. How tall do you need? Keep in mind that the head and camera itself add to tripod's height, and for best stability that it's best to not need to use a center column.
4. How compact do you need it to be for transport? The opposite of working height... also effected by the number of leg sections and the way the legs fold.
5. As few leg sections as possible for best stability. More sections means the lowest ones need to be fairly small diameter.
6. Leg locks. There are three types: lever, thumbscrew and twist. Twist are low profile and self-adjusting for wear. Lever type are the fastest to use.
7. Materials: carbon fiber has the best weight to strength ratio, plus it absorbs some vibrations that metal tripods transmit. But CF is more expensive than aluminum.
8. Cost: A lot of folks spend too little on a tripod and end up replacing it often, actually end up spending more than if they'd bought a better one to begin with.
9. A higher quality, more expensive tripod might last a lifetime and be more pleasurable to use, so may be more likely that you'll actually carry and use it.
10. Special features: some tripods have a removable leg to use as a monopod. Others have a center column that can rotate to horizontal or beyond for low level work.
11. More moving parts and special features might make for more wear and tear, add'l locks to remember to tighten, and may compromise stability.
12. Repairability. Are replacement parts available, if needed? Similarly, are accessories available to customize the tripod for your particular uses.
13. Separately purchasing leg set, head and any accessories lets you tailor the tripod to your needs. But, kits that include head, leg set and more can be better priced.
14. Head type: tilt-pan, fluid, ballhead. Tilt-pan generally are the more flexible, but most have protruding handles. Ballheads are the most compact. Fluid are have & used for video.
15. Quick release system: If you want to use a QR system, you'll may need to purchase additional plates for other cameras and lenses.
16. The Arca-Swiss QR system is the most universal... many manufacturers make heads, plates, etc. using it. Other QR systems are proprietary and may be more limiting.

B&H Photo has a good article and recommendations of travel tripods. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/travel-tripods Those tend to be lighter weight and more compact. Just be sure that the load capacity, working height and other factors are all things you can live with.

Personally I use three Gitzo "Series-3 Systematic" tripods. The "Systematic" series can be customized a number of ways. One of mine is set up for general purpose w/ballhead and a gimbal adapter, another for very low level macro or very high overhead work and the third is "big telephoto" dedicated, with a full size gimbal head. Even though they're carbon fiber, these are heavier than you'll need or want. But some of the gear I put on them weighs 10 or 12 lbs. If interested in Gitzo, I'd recommend that you look at the Series-2 if stability is a big concern... Or, check out Series-1 if light weight is your bigger concern and you can compromise a bit on stability. Gitzo "Traveler" and "Reporter" series are less customizable and rely more on a center column for adequate working height than the Systematics do.
Here are some things you'll need to determine and,... (show quote)


I am not sure why photographers still hold onto the notion that load capacity is still relevant. It isn't. A $50 Dolica will support 14 lbs, which pretty much covers up to a D5 and a 600mm F4. Top tube diameter is a far more reliable criteria for determining stability. Gitzo, RRS, Induro and others use it. Only the budget tripod mfgrs use load capacity anymore.

Ditto for tripod weight, and number of leg sections - Gitzo makes a series, lets say a series 3 that has three, four and five leg sections, and they rate them all equivalent with regards to stability - which in their catalog says they are suitable for up to a 300mm lens. No mention of load is used in there recommendation. I had a 2 section aluminum tripod that weighed 13 lbs that was less stable than my 4 lb carbon with 4 leg sections, and about equivalent in stability to my 4 leg section 2.3 lb carbon that I use primarily for travel.

The type of vibration that robs stability and sharpness occurs at the top of the tripod. If the diameter of the leg at the bottom was meaningful for stability, tripods would be designed with the thinner legs on the top.

High end ball heads and gimbal heads have the highest loading capacity, which is important, given that often there are design loads that are eccentric and can cause considerable stress on fragile parts. Most affordable pan and tilt heads are pretty light on load capacity, and fluid heads can handle professional grade (and weight) movie and video cameras.

Otherwise I completely agree with everything else you suggest. Not that it really matters. We are all entitled to our opinions.

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May 17, 2017 13:46:20   #
cambriaman Loc: Central CA Coast
 
Carbon fiber and one that collapses short enough to fit in your carry-on luggage is the best compromise.

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May 23, 2017 15:33:05   #
topcat Loc: Alameda, CA
 
dusmif wrote:
Can anyone suggest a good lightweight tripod to carry around during shoots please?
Thanks

These two options cancel each other out. Good and lightweight don't go together in a tripod.

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May 24, 2017 06:35:55   #
dusmif
 
cambriaman wrote:
Carbon fiber and one that collapses short enough to fit in your carry-on luggage is the best compromise.


I think you are right from what some research I made on some recommendations. Thanks Mate

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